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  • floor

    Hello
    To replace the floor of a roadster
    Aluminum thickness
    3 mm?
    4 mm?

  • #2
    Re: floor

    If you use aluminium, make sure you protect between it and the steel to stop the electrolytic corrosion caused between dissimilar metals - hope you can understand this J-P ?

    If you have a flat floor ie not lowered, what's wrong with using marine (exterior grade) plywood 12mm, works for me

    Rgds DC

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    • #3
      Re: floor

      The floor must be strong enough to support your body weight and provide secure seat mountings.
      You will need a couple of supports under the seat to stop the floor from flexing.

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      • #4
        Re: floor

        4mm or 3mm alu

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        • #5
          Re: floor

          The standard is 12mm marine plywood
          Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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          • #6
            Re: floor

            Given the choice I would be controversial and go for 5mm but then I have grown with age. Reinforcing the seat mountings is in my mind essential.
            My original plywood floor began to look like a chess board of holes, as the seat position moved rearward.

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            • #7
              Re: floor

              Marine plywood was standard from factory and will last you for many years if properly treated and sealed. I would use seat runners on reinforced holes for adjustment rather than keep drilling holes.
              - 9th owner of T693 SSC possibly a factory built Ford based V8 Sportster
              - 4th owner of Q309 RNV, an early Cabrio built by Bob Copping, owned Doug & Liz Billings for 16 years
              - 9th Custodian of JRR 929D, Triumph Vitesse based special Paul Moorehouse built prior to the Triumph Roadster kits.
              - 8th owner of Roadster chassis number 2395. Now owned by Barry!
              - Builder of chassis number 2325 (PKK 989M) in the mid 80's. Now owned by Eric & Lynne.

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              • #8
                Re: floor

                I would confirm that 12mm ply is the most suitable option. 3 or 4 mm aluminium will not be strong or rigid enough with the limited mountings for the weight of passengers bouncing up and down, plus the problem of corrosion on the steel mounting points. I did try a 2mm galvanised steel floor with trays riveted in for the seat and heels to try to get a better driving position. It was nearly O.K. but not really stiff enough on the drivers side which was the only one I did. However came to the conclusion that it's not worth re-inventing the wheel.

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                • #9
                  Re: floor

                  I don't know what thickness mine is but it is zinc galvanised steel sheet riveted with stronger anchor plates (on the inside) for the seat mounts, I don't feel it bounce or move.

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                  • #10
                    Re: floor

                    When I replaced my floor, from memory, I used 10mm ply with approx 1mm aluminium ally bonded on the underside. The plywood was treated and varnished first and sealant applied between the alloy under surface and the steel flanges on the chassis rails and tunnel to prevent the potential corrosion problem mentioned earlier. Large repair washers were used as spreader plates for the seat rail bolts. That was over 20 years ago and, as far as I know, there has been no deterioration of the floor.

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                    • #11
                      Re: floor

                      If I needed to do the floor - that's the way I would do it... Strong laminate of Al & ply; all done well it should last a long time.

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                      • #12
                        Re: floor

                        The reason I ditched it was I decided seats weren't worth using because of the limited cockpit length and the complication of the floor and used ex Westfield seat squabs and full width backrest which have proved completely satisfactory as there are no mounting points involved.

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