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  • Gearbox removal

    Does anyone have any experience of changing a gearbox on a B series engined roadster without taking the engine out.
    I stripped first gear going up Bamford Clough on this weekend?s Edinburgh trial. We managed to get home using the others.
    I was intending to take the engine out but I wonder if I can avoid that without it taking just as long.
    I have the means to lift the car and a hydraulic engine crane. Unfortunately the car lifter does fit under the rear of the gearbox.

  • #2
    Re: Gearbox removal

    Message originally posted by: Stefan Carlton
    I had to change the clutch thrust bearing on mine and rang around asking for advice. Apparently it is possible to do if lift the car up, remove the engine mounts and use a crane to hold the engine whilst twist it.

    In reality, it proved much easier to remove all the auxillaries (starter motor, alternator, fuel & water lines & carb / intakes / exhaust) and simply drop the engine to the floor and lift the car over the top. I'm going to have to do it again shortly to fix my clutch

    Changing the gearbox should in theory be easier as you don't have to fiddle with the bellhousing as much.

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    • #3
      Re: Gearbox removal

      Message originally posted by: Hugh Cuming
      I've done several engine /gearbox removals over the years and have developed the following method of supporting either while removing the other. Essentially it consists of a bar, 2x2 timber, with a hanger in the middle. In the picture this terminates in a hook which fits in a hole drilled in the top of the bellhousing and the bar is supported across the body sides as in the second pic.(less all the pipes and ancillaries of course) A couple of wedges block the bar up to support the g/box and take it's weight before you remove the engine. Everything stays at the right position for replacement.
      The same method is used for g/box removal, but this time I use a sling round the rear of the engine. I've found that once in place, the front of the car can be raised as high as you like so that you can work reasonably easily under the g/box to remove it.
      I've no doubt slight mods may be needed for each situation but the general idea should be able to be used on any car.
      I also have a 3x1.5 box section beam across the walls of the garage so that I can put my hoist up and that is more than able to lift the front of the car as high as I want, although I support it once I've got it raised.
      Hope this may shed some light on how you go about removeing yours.

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      • #4
        Re: Gearbox removal

        Thanks for your useful suggestions. I think I have decided to take the engine out then the gear box, but I'm still thinking about it.

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        • #5
          Re: Gearbox removal

          Message originally posted by: FPILKINGTON
          Tony I work as an Instructor in te motor vehicle department at our local college and set my trainees the task of checking the clutch on my LWB Roadster. The job was carried out on the ramp. No problems were encountered with the removal or re-fit. The ramp may therefore be the secret to a stress free removal.

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          • #6
            Re: Gearbox removal

            Thanks again, I've now had the engine and gearbox out and back. I had hoped to avoid removing the front and the radiator but eventually came to the conclusion that the engine is just too long to do this. Gettin getting the engine off the gearbox wasn't too bad but getting it back on again was extremely difficult, despite the fact I hadn't disturbed the clutch. I ended up removing the L hand engine mounting fronm the frontplate to get it back in. I think on balance that removing the engine and gearbox together (with the kit I have rather than ramps) is probably the quickest way of doing it.

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            • #7
              Re: Gearbox removal

              Speaking as someone whose car lives outside in all weathers, I have unfortunately had the clutch stick on twice in my B-engined SWB roadster. Having tried all the conventional and some unconventional ways of unsticking the clutch I ended up having to separate it by removing the gearbox. I have tried all ways but can never get the engine to tilt back far enough to enable removal of the gearbox. So I drop the engine and gearbox on the floor, lift the front of the car then slide the engine out or lift/carry/wheel the car back. It helps to have a strong and securely mounted hoist. One tip is to remove the manifold, without dismantling the carbs and to keep it in place by tying it to a length of wood which sits across the engine compartment sides. I find I have to remove the engine mounts and be very careful not to damage the fuel pump. When replacing, put the speedo drive back before refitting the gearbox mount. Leave all the mounts as loose as you can and be prepared for much levering and swearing. Also, if you do damage the fuel pump, when replacing it make sure you get the bit that sits on the cam in front of it, not behind it or you'll need another fuel pump!

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