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rooha
20-02-2014, 08:51 PM
Hi,
I thought it was time I introduced myself as I suspect you are going to be hearing a lot from me in the roadster forum over the coming months.
I really want to upload some pics but donít have any to hand but long story short I bought a roadster in need of some TLC on ebay last week.
Here is its ebay reference 201030709609
From the paperwork it spent most of its life in Wales and then moved to Liverpool.

You can probably see its in need of a lot of work and frankly, whilst I know my way around, Iíve never taken on something like this. Structurally it all seems okay so its more a rebuild and fit out than a total gutting and starting from scratch.
From first glance Iíve started to lay out a plan of things that need doing and would appreciate anyones thoughts on some things that Iím not too sure about.
The motor is a 1985 pinto 1.8 single overhead cam. It has I believe a pierburg 2e3 carb with no air filter. I donít think the standard airfilter would actually be much good to me as I Ďthinkí it would get in the way of the bonnet. So having a look an ebay I came across this Ö Carb filter Ė 390527312805. Without spending some time with a Sierra Haynes (its in the post) though I might just be being a bit naive.
The wiring is a bit of a mess. It took me a while to even figure out that the fusebox is behind a little plate in the scuttle. Imagine my surprise when I opened it and found 5 glass fuses. So I think that all needs taking out and replacing. Again a quick look on ebay and I came across this.
Fusebox http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12-way-Std-Fusebox-fuse-box-fuseholder-kit-car-boat-NEW-/360522724281?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_BoatEquipmen t_Accessories_SM&hash=item53f0d433b9
now Iíve never tackled the loom on a car in my life but its just wiring? Label everything as you go and be neat about itÖ now if anyone has a diagram for wiring up a pinto Ö.
Then there is a new propshaft needed (I have the original Marina one so should be onto a winner with getting that converted to mate to a type 9 gearbox) , the entire cabin needs sorting out, full repaint etc etc
Anyway, thatís about it for now. Once the weather clears and I have a few hours Iíll roll the car out of the garage, get a few shots and upload.
If anyone wants to come and stare at it / offer advice / suck air through back teeth then they are more than welcome .. Iím in Manchester.
Rory

stevejgreen
21-02-2014, 08:58 AM
Wiring is not as hard as it looks. There are several parts suppliers, among them http://www.kitpartsdirect.com/ or http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/ or http://www.autoelectricalspares.co.uk/ who can supply the necessary parts.
If you are starting from scratch, I would suggest using LED lights as far as possible, they consume a lot less power, cables can be thinner, making routing them easier.
Only the ignition/charging circuit, and headlamps if halogen, need larger wiring, but that can be reduced to a minimum with careful location of relays.
The hardest thing to get your head around is the Hazard Warning switch, and its interaction with the indicators. It can be simplified with careful use of diodes.

There are several wiring guides, I suggest looking at what the Locost users do, there are several of their wiring guides on the internet.

CompoSimmonite
21-02-2014, 09:12 AM
My Roadster has the original modified Marina wiring. Looking at the big pile of old MOT fails wiring issues are the most common problem. I've therefore decided to completely rewire from scratch. For me this isn't a problem but is still a big job. The "heart" of my design is the fuse and relay box where I intend sub sections of wring to go / join. That means breaking the harness down into (a) front to rear (brake lights, rear lights, indicators, fog light, reversing light, fuel sender) (b) front lights (main and dipped beams, side lights, indicators, front fog, spot) (c) engine bay (alternator, ignition, temp & oil senders) (d) dashboard (gauges and switchgear) Of course electric fuel pump, heater, cigar lighter socket, side indicator repeaters, interior light and other misc items need to be incorporated. Every sub harness will have a earth circuit incorporated. Headlights, both dip and main beam will be via relays along with horn. Every circuit will be fused.
Basically I'm making my own version of what has been common in US hot rods for ages. They have a master fuse / relay box which has a row of connectors for each item. If you check them out you will see that normally they are easily available fuse & relay holders together with terminal strips mounted on a plate and wired up so "idiot proof" :)
https://www.hotrodhotline.com/hrh/sites/default/files/images/TR_1400.jpg
https://www.hotrodhotline.com/content/kwik-wire-add-fuse-blocks
Mine is going to have multiplugs for joining each sub harness rather than individual connections.
Amount of actual wire for a full harness is dear if you follow the standard colour codes. Great for fault finding but not the pocket ! I plan in using 13 core trailer wire - assuming I can source some of suitable quality as the standard, cheaper, 7 core isn't really the best so am hoping the 13 core is better.
More later - my brain is getting foggy at present !

Paul h

cameronfurnival
21-02-2014, 10:04 AM
Welcome to the forum Rory and good luck with the project. Many of us were watching it on ebay thinking it might get bought as a donor car to keep others on the road! However, its only nuts and bolts and should be quite restorable. Do you have the Roadster manual? Wiring is straight forward in that set up so, as you say, one bit at a time :) The guys at CBS are very helpful for bits and pieces and of course ebay is your friend. If you need bits and pieces just ask - you will be amazed at how many spares there are secreted around the country. good luck :)

stevejgreen
21-02-2014, 01:11 PM
The module that Compo (Paul H) has added as a picture, would be an excellent starting point as it covers most eventualities, without resorting to serious technicalities.
http://www.kwikwire.com/products/tr-1400-replacement-fuse-block.html

Who is the UK distributor, or is there a similar UK product?

philcoyle
21-02-2014, 01:36 PM
Try vehicleproducts modular fuse and relay housing on www.vehicleproducts.co.uk for something similar

rooha
21-02-2014, 02:26 PM
The module that Compo (Paul H) has added as a picture, would be an excellent starting point as it covers most eventualities, without resorting to serious technicalities.
http://www.kwikwire.com/products/tr-1400-replacement-fuse-block.html

Who is the UK distributor, or is there a similar UK product?


i found something similar here which seems to do the same job.
http://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/cbs-12-circuit-wiring-module for £94 + VAT (and doesnt come with a cover, which is another £20

the kwikwire one seems to be US only and costs $125 (£75). but comes with a cover. however, they don't ship to the UK

I suspect good ol ebay will throw up something when i have a look

CompoSimmonite
21-02-2014, 03:11 PM
I'm going to make my module fit inside a sealed box. That way it can be mounted under the bonnet without fear of water ingress. Normal cable glands, maybe with additional sealant, for wiring input to the box. There are numerous IP54 and upwards rated boxes from electrical suppliers as well as Screwfix, Toostation, Maplins, etc.
You can get basic wiring kits in the UK from -
http://www.langysrodshop.co.uk/wiring_kits.htm
It would seem to be a Rebel Wiring kit -
http://rebelwire.com/
He's a nice, helpful, chap and contributes to many forums so is well know for the quality of his products. Again no box but anything can be adapted. Have a look around Ikea kitchen section - there might be a nice stainless or alloy box that can be adapted.

Paul H

Cornish Wrestler
21-02-2014, 10:01 PM
Good luck with the wiring , ive just finished a total rewire from scratch like you are planning its taken ages but im sure each connection is right , everything has been soldered. I would suggest that the extra expense of the correctly coded wires will pay dividends in the long run.

rooha
21-02-2014, 10:40 PM
been having a very quick look around and think that the rebel 9+3 kit is probably the way to go. so thats that worry off the table.

Now for the carb-filter... if anyone has a simple answer to that i'd appreciate it (Id rather not replace the carb that is already there).

In the meantime i need to get the whole thing up on axle stands and have a good look and clean underneath. in an ideal world I'd like to take a new exhaust underneath and out the back as I'd like to be able to have a radio i can hear. So, I need to have a look at taking off the lowering blocks and raising the front.

the weather is allegedly going to be okay tomorrow around here tomorrow so i might even manage to get the camera out.