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View Full Version : The MARLIN of Dorian Gray......



Waterscumbietoo
28-02-2015, 11:19 AM
It is I, davidmccomie@btinternet.com

Have a prodigal Marina 1.8cc based Marlin Roadster MKII (brought as a kit from Paul Moorhouse, way back in March 1983).

Lost track of it in March 2007 and police recovered it in Feb 2014. Rolling chassis and most body panels sound, but everything else ruined or missing :mad:

So going for a complete re-build. Photo is as the police recovered it.

Biggest concern is finding a bonnet (will also post in 'Wanted'). All ideas welcome

:cool:avid.

6027

b_caswell
28-02-2015, 02:16 PM
I can put you in touch with a member who did have a right hand half of a second-hand hinged bonnet. Trouble is they get tweaked to suit each car
You could have ago at making your own.

Waterscumbietoo
28-02-2015, 03:11 PM
I can put you in touch with a member who did have a right hand half of a second-hand hinged bonnet. Trouble is they get tweaked to suit each car
You could have ago at making your own.

Thanks Ben, please do so. Might use it as a pattern to make other side and either have a hinged one, or get an entire single piece version made. Early days.

:David

b_caswell
02-03-2015, 11:54 AM
Hi David, Have sent you a PM with the contact for the half a bonnet.

Waterscumbietoo
09-02-2020, 08:03 PM
Hi fellow Marlinetts :D,

And thanks to all who have sourced items for me, or offered advice, so far. [Need ideas for a front grill, the standard "kit" never made it back.]

Anyway it's been a while, life, job hunting (still on going), property matters, restoring to minty fresh a second MX5 (1998 NB 1.6 with bolted on hardtop) and motorbike fettling have all pushed my re-imagining of my Marlin lower down my Bucket List, but I have had made some progress.

> Rear diff and all brakes and suspension refurbished and repainted. Have a kit to make up new clutch and brake lines, once the drive tunell is modified and refitted.

11495

> MX5 1.6 DOHC engine refurbished and positioned in chassis to confirm driveshaft length and intended engine location to clear bonnet and to see how much room I have to play with (not a lot).

11494

> Gaffa tape just to hold the shafts together till I measure up and tack weld for the shaft to be properly welded and balanced. Also need to come up with a gearbox support bracket which will be mounted in the new drive tunnel as per the original for the Marina 1.8 gearbox.

Next priority is to make up a new steering shaft. Needs to have a dog leg with some Land Rover universal joints and a pillow-block support bearing to route the steering shaft round the MX5 engine to connect to the steering rack existing position. Saw the earlier warnings about changing the steering geometry, so decided to leave well enough alone :o

As always, all comments or advice much appreciated.

:cool:avid.

HairyDave
10-02-2020, 11:32 AM
Looking good, it doesn't seem to have suffered much cosmetically. Funny how the mundane things in life keep getting in the way of real life! Why not make a dummy bonnet out of thin caravan ally (easy to work) then use it as a pattern? Good luck!

jon_cox
11-02-2020, 06:32 PM
Hi David,
I am sure it is just the angle of the picture or perhaps the engine is not in its final position, but it looks like you have quite an angle acting on the prop uj's.
Have you had to offset the engine to the drivers side to fit the intake plenum in without bodywork modification? If so have you kept the drive train centre line parallel to the the car centre line?
If not then how are you dealing with the propshaft UJ angles? I have been looking into the fitment of the MX5 MK2.5 vvt 1.8 engine (Slightly longer than 1.6) but the offset required for the intake plenum, whilst keeping the drive centre line parallel to vehicle centreline is a real head scratcher.
I have been looking into the possibility of using CV joints instead of UJ's. This was done in the past on later dolomite sprints and TR7, TR8, Triumph Stags when they realised that the vibrations were being caused by poor drivetrain to diff alignment as the engineers had not factored in the effect of unequal UJ angles.

Watch this video to understand what I mean.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idk3BVDVHq4

TR7 5 speed prop with CV joints at each end
11497

Waterscumbietoo
11-02-2020, 07:32 PM
Hi David,
I am sure it is just the angle of the picture or perhaps the engine is not in its final position, but it looks like you have quite an angle acting on the prop uj's.
Have you had to offset the engine to the drivers side to fit the intake plenum in without bodywork modification? If so have you kept the drive train centre line parallel to the the car centre line?
If not then how are you dealing with the propshaft UJ angles? I have been looking into the fitment of the MX5 MK2.5 vvt 1.8 engine (Slightly longer than 1.6) but the offset required for the intake plenum, whilst keeping the drive centre line parallel to vehicle centreline is a real head scratcher.
I have been looking into the possibility of using CV joints instead of UJ's. This was done in the past on later dolomite sprints and TR7, TR8, Triumph Stags when they realised that the vibrations were being caused by poor drivetrain to diff alignment as the engineers had not factored in the effect of unequal UJ angles.

Watch this video to understand what I mean.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Idk3BVDVHq4

TR7 5 speed prop with CV joints at each end
11497

Thanks Jon,

I had seen the UT clip before. Was just positioning it for the length the prop shaft, think it is about right for where I want the gearshift to be, and with enough clearance between the back of the engine/bell housing and the bulkhead. I am also considering anglinging the engine slightly to the left, along its horizontal axis to give better clearance for the intake plenum and allow better clearance for the steering column. WIll position the right side engine bay housing before I do any final permanent fixing of the engine to engine brackets and welding in new engine mounts.
]
I intend for the driveshaft to be perfectly horizontal when the dif/chassis/suspension is "at rest" on my garage floor. And looking from above the shaft will be at a a right angle to the rear axle.
]
Fun part is the final position/angle of the gearbox/engine and making up the engine supports. Still have to find the right engine mounts and place to fix them to the chassis.
]
Also in two minds about re-using the original Marina pedal box and pedals, or see if the MX5 pedal box and brake servo (much slimmer that the Marina one) could be used instead.

How far have you progressed with your build?

Regards,

:David

jon_cox
12-02-2020, 10:35 AM
Hi David
No physical progress so far. Have been at the planning stage for a few years.......:).
Too many distractions in life at the moment. I did not even put the car on the road this year due to other projects.
Hopefully get things going after the summer.
What are your plans for fuelling? Will you change the fuel tank for a custom made job with sump, baffles and fuel line return? Or go the swirl pot route?
If you change the pedal box to mx5 will you need to change the steering column position or perhaps use the mx5 column?
Trouble is every decision has a knock on effect which sends you round in circles.

Jon

Waterscumbietoo
12-02-2020, 11:22 AM
Hi David
No physical progress so far. Have been at the planning stage for a few years.......:).
Too many distractions in life at the moment. I did not even put the car on the road this year due to other projects.
Hopefully get things going after the summer.
What are your plans for fuelling? Will you change the fuel tank for a custom made job with sump, baffles and fuel line return? Or go the swirl pot route?
If you change the pedal box to mx5 will you need to change the steering column position or perhaps use the mx5 column?
Trouble is every decision has a knock on effect which sends you round in circles.

Jon
Hi Jon,

Current intention was a custom fuel tank to replicate the MX5 one, with existing MX5 components. Have already refurbished the current fuel pump and combined sender unit. Was also thinking of having the battery in the rear rather than in the engine bay (I already have the wiring harness from the MX5).

Was not aware of the "swirl pot" solution, any good links? Will have to do some homework. I need a new fuel tank whichever way I go.

Going to have to modify/re-install the drive tunell and make up a gearbox support bracket, similar to the Marinia version, then make the final adjustments for the alignment of the drive shaft and engine support mounts. Then I can look at pedal box solution.

Truth be told, I enjoy solving each technical challenge just as much as driving the Marlin. And I suspect once I finally get the Marlin back on the road the way I want it, I will be looking round for something else to fettle, now that I have all the tools necessary. But as they say, no such thing as "all" to an addicted DIY mechanic:rolleyes:;)

Waterscumbietoo
27-02-2020, 03:39 PM
UPDATE: Steering column re route now sorted ("L" shaped rather than straight through). Two extra UJs, a support bearing on a "pillow mount" bolted to the driver side engine bay panel, extra 450mm long (14mm diameter) steel rod and cut down the originally supplied steering shaft to retain the T coupling at the top. Did not need to relocate the steering rack.

Next challenges are:


> Mount either the Marina pedal box and brake servo or the MX5 pedal box and servo unit, depending on which will not foul the new position of the steering shaft. Or go for another purpose-built floor-mounted box from a specialist maker (have seen a few)



> Get the gearbox end of the MX5 output drive shaft mated to the shortened Marina driveshaft and have it balanced.



> Finalise the position of the engine once the drive shaft is re-fitted and sort out the location and type of engine mounts I need.

> Then out comes the engine & gearbox to weld in the new engine mounts (once I've worked out the correct mix), fit new clutch basket, clutch plate and throw out bearing, then put the lot back in the engine bay and bolt the engine down and make up a gearbox support bracket similar to the original one that came with the kit.

Love it when I can lay out all my fantasies like this, ignoring all the little "gotchas" I'm going to have to overcome.

Bye fer now......:)

jon_wilkinson
28-02-2020, 07:38 AM
Pikchers or it didn't happen :)

Waterscumbietoo
28-02-2020, 10:17 AM
Pikchers or it didn't happen :)

OK, you asked for em....

Adapted original T piece from Marlin supplied steering shaft to 1st additional UJ, and short extension to 2nd additional UJ to support bearing

11517

2nd UJ to the support bearing on "Pillow Mount" fixed to driver side engine bay panel to take 450mm steel rod

11516


450mm steel rod connected to original UJ and steering rack

11518

jon_wilkinson
28-02-2020, 12:06 PM
Thanks. Always good for others following in your footsteps in the future.

Waterscumbietoo
05-07-2020, 10:58 AM
Pardon my ignorance, but what is the difference between/benefits of UJs over Constant Velocity joints?:confused:

copperleaves11
05-07-2020, 01:42 PM
Constant velocity joints can work with different angles, UJ's on the other hand prefer the angles to be the same.

scott h
05-07-2020, 03:38 PM
UJ's are stronger, cheaper and more compact than CV's. However UJ's cause the shaft to speed up and slow down during one revolution. This is usually dealt with by fitting a second UJ at the same angle which cancels out the speed changes of the first.

Constant Velocity joints, as the name suggests, keep the output shaft at a constant speed during one revolution, and so are suited to front wheel drive applications where the angle of one end (the wheel) is most of the time different to the input end.

Certain types of CV joints can slide to change the length of the shaft. This is handy in rear wheel drive independent suspension applications, where often the geometry of the suspension requires the drive shaft to change length as the suspension moves.

Waterscumbietoo
03-08-2020, 11:50 AM
OK, Engine and gearbox now bolted into the engine bay, need to fabricate the gearbox mount to replace the Marina one made by Paul Moorhouse.

Was told by a Propshaft company that I need a custom built drive shaft that mates the MX5 gearbox to the Marina diff. Chap I spoke to made complete sense. Their estimate is circa £200.00 plus vat for new balanced one of the correct length.

So adding that to the cost of a new custom ally fuel tank (with sump to accommodate MX5 submerged fuel pump) plus new stainless exhaust manifold, down pipe and end can.
1174111742

andyf
03-08-2020, 05:19 PM
Out of interest what peddle box are you using? Looks completely different to the Marina one

Waterscumbietoo
03-08-2020, 06:35 PM
Out of interest what peddle box are you using? Looks completely different to the Marina one

Hi Andy.

Reused the three pedals from the MX5, but had to delete the servo, as space is tight. Covered the cutout left from the Marina pedal box with 4mm steel plate and drilled to take an adapter plate that allowed the MX5 Brake clynder to be fitted. Did same for master clutch cylinder, but had to insert a hardwood spacer and longer plunger bar to get the three pedals to align. They sit higher than the Marina pedals but are quite comfortable.

So have a complete Marina 1.8 Pedal box with master cylinders and working brake light switch. Clutch pedal was shortened to allow it to clear the wooden floor of the Marlin, when fully depressed.

Waterscumbietoo
10-08-2020, 10:11 AM
Hi David
No physical progress so far. Have been at the planning stage for a few years.......:).
Too many distractions in life at the moment. I did not even put the car on the road this year due to other projects.
Hopefully get things going after the summer.
What are your plans for fuelling? Will you change the fuel tank for a custom made job with sump, baffles and fuel line return? Or go the swirl pot route?
If you change the pedal box to mx5 will you need to change the steering column position or perhaps use the mx5 column?
Trouble is every decision has a knock on effect which sends you round in circles.

Jon

1. No decision on the fuel tank vs swirl pot as yet. Have to find a local(ish) tank fabrication company to discuss my options for a tank with a sump for the submerged MX5 fuel pump, so that the swirl pot is not necessary. Also may go for steel instead of ally, as the coming ethanol mix to UK petrol does bad things to ally tanks, or so I'm told, have to do a bit more research.

2. Went with the MX5 pedals and mountings. Had to make up a few items to get them to fit to the Marlin bulkhead and ditched the servo as no space for it, but turned out quite well. Fitting "Greeenstuff" pads to the front discs.

3. Made a "dog leg" for the Marina steering shaft to clear the air intake for the MX5.

4. Also need a new drive shaft to mate the MX5 gearbox to the Marina diff

5. Then need to look at a new exhaust manifold and exhaust

6. And on and on and on

Now learning all about brake pipe flaring

Waterscumbietoo
13-08-2020, 11:25 AM
1. No decision on the fuel tank vs swirl pot as yet. Have to find a local(ish) tank fabrication company to discuss my options for a tank with a sump for the submerged MX5 fuel pump, so that the swirl pot is not necessary. Also may go for steel instead of ally, as the coming ethanol mix to UK petrol does bad things to ally tanks, or so I'm told, have to do a bit more research.

2. Went with the MX5 pedals and mountings. Had to make up a few items to get them to fit to the Marlin bulkhead and ditched the servo as no space for it, but turned out quite well. Fitting "Greeenstuff" pads to the front discs.

3. Made a "dog leg" for the Marina steering shaft to clear the air intake for the MX5.

4. Also need a new drive shaft to mate the MX5 gearbox to the Marina diff

5. Then need to look at a new exhaust manifold and exhaust

6. And on and on and on

Now learning all about brake pipe flaring


OK, with all the talk of the Ethanol being added to UK unleaded petrol, any advice on if it is a good idea to have a custom ally tank or go for a steel one instead?

Tony Stott
13-08-2020, 12:06 PM
Doesn't ethanol absorb water cf whisky etc, that could be the prob with corrosion of the ali tanks?

andyf
13-08-2020, 01:45 PM
Doesn't ethanol absorb water cf whisky etc, that could be the prob with corrosion of the ali tanks?
And an even bigger problem with steel tanks which is probably why all of the manufacturers have plastic tanks. Probably best to get one of the motorsport bag tanks or just slosh the metal tanks with an ethanol proof coating... wishing I'd done mine when I swapped it a couple of years ago.

stevejgreen
13-08-2020, 03:41 PM
Aluminium and steel are not self sealing.
if you suffer a rear end collision in a roadster, disembark quickly.

andyf
14-08-2020, 11:19 AM
Aluminium and steel are not self sealing.
if you suffer a rear end collision in a roadster, disembark quickly.

Having had a rear end shunt in a Marlin I wouldn't worry, if they hit you hard enough to rupture the tank you'll probably be unconscious! if not badly injured!!

boustrophedon
14-08-2020, 03:03 PM
And an even bigger problem with steel tanks which is probably why all of the manufacturers have plastic tanks. Probably best to get one of the motorsport bag tanks or just slosh the metal tanks with an ethanol proof coating... wishing I'd done mine when I swapped it a couple of years ago.

Actually ethanol keep the tank drier as it keeps the water in solution instead of as a puddle at the bottom. Skoda, back in the days of their old rear engined models actually recommended adding ethanol in cold damp climates. Water can get into any petrol tank via the breather as vapour and can condense out.

Some metals, aluminium included can corrode in dry ethanol.

Plastic tanks are used because they are cheaper and can be blow molded to fit into inconvenient spaces.

h_m_cumming
14-08-2020, 07:59 PM
Having had a rear end shunt in a Marlin I wouldn't worry, if they hit you hard enough to rupture the tank you'll probably be unconscious! if not badly injured!!

Been hit twice up the back, barely dented the bumper. You should see what it did to the other cars 'though

Waterscumbietoo
15-08-2020, 05:41 PM
Out of interest what peddle box are you using? Looks completely different to the Marina one

Took all pedals and brackets from the MX5 and made them fit in the Marlin bulkhead. Had to use a 4mm thick steel plate to fill in the hole left from the Marina pedal box and pad the clutch pedal out to make it line up with the brake pedal. Have now run new copper clutch and brake lines to front brakes.

Waterscumbietoo
29-08-2020, 08:00 AM
Finally!

New custom propshaft is ready. Now to install, make up drive tunnel and floorboards and make new gearbox support bracket which will hang from the drive tunnel. Then run brake line to rear.

My next mission is designing new steel fuel tank to take Mazda submerged fuel pump and install flow and return fuel lines rated at 80psi for fuel injection.

Wish me luck :)
11811

David
29-08-2020, 08:41 AM
No sliding part, is this connecting to a fixed to chassis rear diff? Or is that the shiny end?

Waterscumbietoo
29-08-2020, 12:27 PM
No sliding part, is this connecting to a fixed to chassis rear diff? Or is that the shiny end?

As you said "connecting to a fixed to chassis rear diff"

Waterscumbietoo
24-12-2020, 10:31 AM
It's time to drape ourselves in tinsel and collectively over indulge......

Last update for 2020:

The stainless steel tank arrived and it fits like a glove.

Just waiting for the temperature to improve in my ManCave so I can prime and paint the exposed underside areas. All components for my exhaust also here, and found a pair of new OEM rear Morris Marina shock absorbers, garage is filling up with parts that have to assembled into the chassis. So as a preview of whats ahead of me once it stays above 10 degrees C in my garage, here is my 2021 DoList:


MARLIN 2021 Do List (* indicates additional funding will be required)

1. Mount new stainless steel exhaust
2. Paint and fit new fuel tank and adjust sender float in tank to read accurately against Mazda fuel gauge, if necessary
3. Relocate handbrake to left side of drive tunnel to clear gearshift
4. Make new drive tunnel cover
5. Install Fuel filler hoses and flow and return fuel lines and fuel filter
6. Seat belts (adapt Mazda ones of go for aftermarket 4 point harnesses, if not possible) *
7. All wiring (remaking harnesses), reuse OEM ECU and all fuses/fuse boxes, or source aftermarket consolidated fuse box*
8. Get windscreen wipers and screen washer/bottle installed and working
9. Plumb in heater matrix, if room, or source electric version*
10. Re mount Vauxhall Viva radiator, overflow bottle and electric cooling fan
11. Fresh Brake and Clutch fluid, gearbox and engine oil and coolant (water and flushing agent)
12. Get engine running, flush cooling system and refill with coolant (with rust inhibitor) *
13. Make up new Dashboard, instruments and switchgear*
14. Refit all bodywork
15. Adapt 2nd hand hinged bonnet to fit engine bay*
16. Install all front and rear lights and turn signals*
17. Horn and horn button *
18. Rear view mirrors*
19. 4 new tires*
20. Spare Tire and cover*
21. Fit new OEM rear shock absorbers*
22. Refurbish Roof frame
23. Source windscreen frame mounted wind deflectors*
24. Adapt 2nd hand screen trim from Hunter as front bumper covers
25. Cockpit re-trim*
26. Recover/clean up driver and passenger seats*
27. New number plates and rear number plate light*
28. Front Grill and badges*
29. Re-spray*
30. Insure and MOT*

Have the best holiday you can manage with whomever you are allowed to share it with.:cool:

listerjp2
24-12-2020, 12:35 PM
Looks like my list 2 years ago.

Good luck, Happy Christmas and New year.

Adrian

Waterscumbietoo
24-12-2020, 12:45 PM
Shiny end is the sliding section3

marlinmick
05-02-2021, 04:22 PM
It looks like you have sorted your fuel tank now but I'll show you mine anyway. I made it when I built my Roadster back in 83. I has quite an interesting history of its manufacture. the sixteen gauge mild steel sheet that I made if come came from underneath a Diesel Fuelled Stone Vapor Train Heating Boiler that I was involved in removing from a Class 45 (Peak) Railway Locomotive during my Mechanical Fitting Apprenticeship at Derby Locomotive Work in about 72. I claimed the steel sheet as nobody else wanted it instead of it going in the scrap bin. and it might come in handy for my Dad who does car repairs in his spare time. Fast forward about 10 years and I'm building my New Roadster Kit from Marlin and I'm trying to find a good used Escort Fuel Tank without much success. I then thought that it cant be that difficult to make one for the Roadster and we might still just have a nice piece of steel sheet to make it out of. I worked out the sizes using an old one gallon Duckhams oil can (remember the tin plate cans) In the space provided it worked out about six gallons so that would do nicely. I marked out the folds on the sheet and bent it up by hand clamping the sheet between two lengths of inch and a half heavy duty angle iron in a 6" mechanics vice and used a hide mallet to form the bends and the dished bowl in the bottom for the fuel pick up pipe and filter. After cutting the hole for the filler and sender unit I adjusted the sender float arm to give level readers using a Smiths fuel gauge out of a MK11 Jaguar. I then made the tank sides again with the aid of the vice and cut the top and a couple of baffles for the inside all cuts done by hand with a pair of Gilbow Side Cutters.
Getting the tank seam welded up made use the of the ubiquitous fag packet economy prevalent at that time in the job that I had as a Mechanical Maintenance Fitter at Willington Power Station (most foreigner's whether machining or welding was a packet of the Guys favourite smoke) and 20 Bensons saw me with a fully welded and pressure tested fuel tank as per the pictures. I am rebuilding my Roadster now and the quick whip over with a wire brush and a coating black paint saw it like new again.

12069120701207112072

Waterscumbietoo
06-02-2021, 12:13 PM
It looks like you have sorted your fuel tank now but I'll show you mine anyway. I made it when I built my Roadster back in 83. I has quite an interesting history of its manufacture. the sixteen gauge mild steel sheet that I made if come came from underneath a Diesel Fuelled Stone Vapor Train Heating Boiler that I was involved in removing from a Class 45 (Peak) Railway Locomotive during my Mechanical Fitting Apprenticeship at Derby Locomotive Work in about 72. I claimed the steel sheet as nobody else wanted it instead of it going in the scrap bin. and it might come in handy for my Dad who does car repairs in his spare time. Fast forward about 10 years and I'm building my New Roadster Kit from Marlin and I'm trying to find a good used Escort Fuel Tank without much success. I then thought that it cant be that difficult to make one for the Roadster and we might still just have a nice piece of steel sheet to make it out of. I worked out the sizes using an old one gallon Duckhams oil can (remember the tin plate cans) In the space provided it worked out about six gallons so that would do nicely. I marked out the folds on the sheet and bent it up by hand clamping the sheet between two lengths of inch and a half heavy duty angle iron in a 6" mechanics vice and used a hide mallet to form the bends and the dished bowl in the bottom for the fuel pick up pipe and filter. After cutting the hole for the filler and sender unit I adjusted the sender float arm to give level readers using a Smiths fuel gauge out of a MK11 Jaguar. I then made the tank sides again with the aid of the vice and cut the top and a couple of baffles for the inside all cuts done by hand with a pair of Gilbow Side Cutters.
Getting the tank seam welded up made use the of the ubiquitous fag packet economy prevalent at that time in the job that I had as a Mechanical Maintenance Fitter at Willington Power Station (most foreigner's whether machining or welding was a packet of the Guys favourite smoke) and 20 Bensons saw me with a fully welded and pressure tested fuel tank as per the pictures. I am rebuilding my Roadster now and the quick whip over with a wire brush and a coating black paint saw it like new again.

12069120701207112072

Ah, life moves on. Sadly the days of payment in fags has long gone. The cold weather has stopped me even starting on my DOList, however have sourced all the extra component I need to complete my build. Only real challenge ahead of me (famous last words....) are the electrical harnesses, both low and high voltage circuits. Do have a reasonable multimeter, but tempted by one of those kits that track/identify potential breaks in wires/circuits. Post up some pictures of your pr12076ogress, I'll do same.1207412075

stevejgreen
06-02-2021, 02:15 PM
It looks like you have sorted your fuel tank now but I'll show you mine anyway. I made it when I built my Roadster back in 83. I has quite an interesting history of its manufacture. the sixteen gauge mild steel sheet that I made if come came from underneath a Diesel Fuelled Stone Vapor Train Heating Boiler that I was involved in removing from a Class 45 (Peak) Railway Locomotive during my Mechanical Fitting Apprenticeship at Derby Locomotive Work in about 72. I claimed the steel sheet as nobody else wanted it instead of it going in the scrap bin. and it might come in handy for my Dad who does car repairs in his spare time. Fast forward about 10 years and I'm building my New Roadster Kit from Marlin and I'm trying to find a good used Escort Fuel Tank without much success. I then thought that it cant be that difficult to make one for the Roadster and we might still just have a nice piece of steel sheet to make it out of. I worked out the sizes using an old one gallon Duckhams oil can (remember the tin plate cans) In the space provided it worked out about six gallons so that would do nicely. I marked out the folds on the sheet and bent it up by hand clamping the sheet between two lengths of inch and a half heavy duty angle iron in a 6" mechanics vice and used a hide mallet to form the bends and the dished bowl in the bottom for the fuel pick up pipe and filter. After cutting the hole for the filler and sender unit I adjusted the sender float arm to give level readers using a Smiths fuel gauge out of a MK11 Jaguar. I then made the tank sides again with the aid of the vice and cut the top and a couple of baffles for the inside all cuts done by hand with a pair of Gilbow Side Cutters.
Getting the tank seam welded up made use the of the ubiquitous fag packet economy prevalent at that time in the job that I had as a Mechanical Maintenance Fitter at Willington Power Station (most foreigner's whether machining or welding was a packet of the Guys favourite smoke) and 20 Bensons saw me with a fully welded and pressure tested fuel tank as per the pictures. I am rebuilding my Roadster now and the quick whip over with a wire brush and a coating black paint saw it like new again.

12069120701207112072

Stone Vapour boilers were part of my engineering heritage too. My dad worked for Stone, and I ended up working in their steam engineering design office in Crawley, Sussex until they went into receivership, nothing to do with me!

we had a test rig with three in a row, quite spectacular when all at full power.

marlinmick
06-02-2021, 09:19 PM
I'm also stopped by the cold weather and my next task is to create my new wiring loom, I am using one of those Basic Kit Car Loom Kits from CBS.
It seems a good basic staring point for the loom that I'm creating as mine is just a basic old school loom ie no silly electronics or monitoring systems (1.8 TC Marina based car) The loom that I made 35 years ago was just a bunch of wiring stripped out of a Rover SD1 Interior this gave me a pre-wrapped loom of wires that I ran through the Marlin. shortening cables and fitting appropriate connections as required. I could have used it again but after 35 years some of the connections had corroded. I'm hoping to complete the rebuild by late Spring/Early Summer.
To combat the cold weather I have erected a Poly Tunnel in my garage with the car inside and with a small convector heater it soon gets warm enough to work on the car.
My real problem at the moment is Lockdown Lethargy I just cant motivate myself to do anything I had a real good start last year completing lots of work on it including Engine, Suspension, Brakes, Gearbox rebuilds and a complete repaint and purchasing a Cabrio as well, but at the moment I've definitely lost my mojo. My proposed completion date is getting nearer.