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cameronfurnival
04-05-2015, 06:53 PM
I am now the new owner of a Berlinetta! The good news is I can get out of the car without resorting to an impression of a hermit crab moving shells. The car has been well built and apart from the paint work (which is dreadful - a professional respray was undertaken several years ago and its lifting and peeling!) and a bit of fiddling I'm hoping to get it motd fairly quickly.

I have filled the leaks in the exhaust with putty but intend to have a nice new exhaust pretty soon. I cured the fallen passenger door with a bit of spannering and derusted and hammerited some water damage at the B posts. So I reckon its time to put her in for a test and see what transpires. I have noticed a split in the gaiter of the steering rack and giving the wheels a hard jiggle shows up some play - probably in the rack itself I fear. Its not much but I bet it will be enough to fail - at least they will tell me which bit needs work. So there's my first question, how difficult is it to rebuild a cortina rack - or is it not worth the effort? I searched my old Haynes manuals and dont have anything suitable to compare with so if anyone has the relavant bit that I can photocopy I would be most grateful - a purchase is already underway but I can never wait that long!

PS Nice to meet so may of you at stoneleigh :)
PPS heres a pic of it from several years ago

6315

scott h
04-05-2015, 08:10 PM
A quick search came up with this at 35 http://www.livingstonautoparts.co.uk/Steering-Suspension/Steering-Racks/Ford/Cortina/all/2.0/1981/Parts.aspx

So I would say it's not worth the hassle. Try your local motor factor.

cameronfurnival
05-05-2015, 08:37 AM
Thats insanely cheap! I will get on to them - many thanks.

cameronfurnival
08-05-2015, 07:10 PM
MOT today, she failed on:



slight blow between the down pipe and first box

Brake switch faulty (turned out to be snapped)

osf tie bar nut not tightened

os track rod end

both front wheel bearings need adjustment

rear brakes dragging



The tester told me he thought there was some 'lift' in the steering rack but wouldn't be able to tell how bad it was until the other jobs were done, he suspects it is well within limits.

Overall very happy indeed, new switch ordered for under 6.00. Have ordered a pair of track rod ends (15) will adjust bearings and repack with fresh grease over the weekend. the tie bar nut was very loose - the poly bush could be turned by hand so I have whacked it up nice but will replace the nylock nuts on both sides in due course. My intention is to fit a new exhaust but for the mot I will disassemble, apply joint paste and bang it back together.

Driving it today for the first real time showed that the steering was a bit wayward (resulting from the above mot points) and that when pulling away there is a hell of a clonking from the back - possibly a gearbox mount or similar. Will get it up in the air and have a look.

As I said in the last post, the car is very well built but one bit that puzzles me is the boot lid - it stands a good 1/2" proud. I looked at the hinges (and viewed Tony Green's car at Stoneleigh - thanks Tony) and can see the hinges haven't been bent far enough away from the pin. New hinges arrived today - 2 sets so I can butcher one to get the best fit. The boot seal is standard door seal and I think there may be something better out there? Ideas?

Jobs to do:


mot

new exhaust

fix boot alignment

new paint job.

dcunn
08-05-2015, 08:17 PM
FWIW there is a lot in the old Tech Tips/Pitstops ref Berli clonking - I can't remember details, but it'll make some bedtime reading for you !
Rgds DC

cameronfurnival
11-05-2015, 10:58 AM
Thanks DC will have a look!
I have now dismantled the front suspension. the wheel bearings looked fine so they are all re-greased and set up accurately - feel much better. Managed to get the faulty track rod end off easily but the other one was a bit of a bugger. Its not worth replacing one and not the other when its all stripped down that far. To get the hubs off to repack the bearings I had to remove the brakes; not much material left on the pads so I ordered some new ones complete with fixing kit etc. Unfortunately the pistons appear completely seized - well they cant be completely or it wouldn't have had enough squeeze to pass an mot but trust me - the pistons don't want to move! So the calipers have been sent off to Bigg Red for reconditioning - not worth taking risks with brakes.
The car seems to have a nice upgrade in the brakes with vented discs and what I guess are Capri 2.8i calipers, so when its back together it will stop on a sixpence.

I'm just thinking about the exhaust now - it only needs a bit of gungum to pass the test but I saw a lovely Berli at Stonelighwith a side exit one. I'm thinking....

PS I now have Autobooks and Haynes manuals so if anyone needs a page copying just let me know?

danny_nelson
11-05-2015, 01:14 PM
Hi Cameron,
It is worth checking the front wheel bearings at intervals ( begining of season/ end) as they are able to be adjusted. The clonking is nothing that is on tech tips, ie prop and rear flange clearance. Could be the rubber on the gearbox mount perished. The side mount exhaust gives best ground clearance, but can be a bit of a (drone) on motorway journeys. Your Berly has reasonable clearance ( better than a lot) Try passing the test and then see how you get on with it on your local roads. Sounds like you will be on the road for the end of the week
Danny.

cameronfurnival
11-05-2015, 02:36 PM
I like your confidence Danny, :) I have checked the gearbox mount and all looks well so its just a matter of going through it all. I will attack it with a lever see if its split but it appears sound.
I havent started refurbishing the back brakes yet but did notice some real dragging from spinning the osr wheel (half a turn, catch, half a turn catch). I wonder if its something simple like a broken brake catching... time will tell. I have just started going through the exhaust and its actually not bad, i think it just needs the joints remaking and a nicer back box fitting. I just catch the centre section on my rubber threshold strip - but that's due to the steep ramp up to the door (another job in the summer) - so thought I might take that out, but actually think I will leave it as is.

cameronfurnival
14-05-2015, 07:15 PM
It turns out the exhaust had been clamped so tight on the front joint that the pipe had actually worn through under the clamp. Angle grinder, reseat pipes, job done. I intend to have a new system made in due course but that should see me through to doing a bit of driving first.

The front brake callipers have been sent off to Bigg Red for a 90 refurbishment and should be back early next week, new pads and pins have been ordered and then the work for the MOT should have been completed. Rear brakes all cleaned up and seem lovely and sharp now.
the new track rod ends are fitted so I guess I should get the tracking checked at some time.

I looked closely at the drive train and can find no sign of clonking damage, the rubber mountings all seem fine but I did notice that the exhaust clamps had gouged a bit into the floor, leading me to suspect that the vibrations from the engine might be to blame - I will look closely at the engine mounts next but suspect it may be oil on the clutch that's causing the juddering (its very minor) - a new clutch was always on the cards with this car anyway (along with all serviceable items) so I'm glad it has had the mods done to the chassis to enable easy gearbox removal.

So, hopefully this time next week it will have a nice new MOT.

cameronfurnival
26-05-2015, 10:05 AM
After a week of being pretty ill I am back in rood health and just in time my reconditioned calipers turned up from Bigg Red. I originally arranged for UPS to courier them as I was in a rush - UPS failed to turn up...twice!. Then the next courier DX tried to deliver them to the factory but no-one was in (apparently) Twice!! I decided that I would ring Bigg Red to see how they were getting on only to find out they hadn't been delivered. aaargh. Anyway they are back now and Im very pleased. They have new seals and pistons etc and look lovely. Just under 90 is a good price in my opinion and the peace of mind that comes with a good piece of work too. I could have bought new chinese copies - Im sure they are really excellent and up to the job but I decided to stick with the originals.

6488

cameronfurnival
29-05-2015, 06:36 PM
MOT passed now and a lovely ride back with the top down. The clonk has disappeared with a good fettle of the exhaust and the old girl drives really nicely - wafts along very regally.

After re greasing and setting the wheel bearings and replacing the track rod ends there is no play whatsoever in the front suspension so my fears about steering rack play were unfounded.

I have raised the drivers seat by 1 3/4" but think that's a bit excessive and will probably settle on 1/2" less for comfort.
next job is to give it a full service and swap out the cam belt - I used to have a set of Ford Splined bits somewhere - I bet they aren't the same as my modern splined torx bits are they?
Tonight I made some new hinges for the boot so it now sits flush and will look at installing a gas ram rather than the bit of string which supports the weight of the spare wheel when its open. If anyone has pics of that upgrade please share them!
The plan is to refurbish the wheels and respray the whole car. Then have a new exhaust made. First though I need to make the ramp into the garage a little less steep. :)

cameronfurnival
10-06-2015, 06:22 PM
Lovely sunshine today so I took an hour off from building the MOC databases and auto sign up systems, ignored my son's plea for more help with his new restaurant, ignored the wife wanting me to do a shed load of work for her too and went out to the garage. I stripped off all the lighting - most came off quite straightforward and I even remembered to label the wires. I hope to replace all the junctions with waterproof multiplugs when the time comes. One rear light needed its mounting screw drilling out but everything else came off ok. The respray is worse than I thought and in some places is over 1mm thick and has formed strange shapes around the edges of the light pods - hollow underneath though! I cleared all the electrics off the outside of the car quite quickly, removed the hood and frame and rear bench seats. I am also going to take off the seat belts so as to remove the side panels and repaint the top of the rear tub under the hood fixings.
I couldnt undo the seat belt bolts - would have thought they would have been captive but no. So I need a longer arm with an extra elbow to get a spanner on the back nuts. Had to give up at that point.

I found some Wipac S.169 lenses in my boxes of bits so will fit them instead of the trailer light units but need to source new bulb holders and reflectors for them first. I also fancy fitting some infill plates to cover the rear bumper irons, if anyone has a photo or template of one they prepared earlier I would be most grateful.

Right - onwards.

dcunn
10-06-2015, 08:42 PM
You're obviously enjoying yourself too much ! Look forward to some pics
B Rgds DC

cameronfurnival
24-06-2015, 06:03 PM
I have begun the strip down as I said and the seatbelt bolts really tested me. Still, a little patience and all things come to those... etc...
I thought I had cured the passenger door droop but no, tightening up the bolt in the door frame was a temporary fix and so today I decided to have a proper look.

6633

As you can see, the ally door edge has broken, stress on the area around the hinge has weakened it and metal fatigue has set in and the whole thing snapped. But wait - can you see that it has already been repaired? On taking off the hinge completely you can see that a piece of steel has been coaxed into service to strengthen the panel - perfectly good solution but...it's not thick enough and actually bends if you press it in. I'm guessing the rivets may not be set tight enough or play has developed over the years - it was probably a good fix when done originally.

6634

My solution is to take a piece of stainless roofing strap and brace the door along its whole length and hopefully that should do it for the foreseeable future.

danny_nelson
25-06-2015, 10:58 AM
Hi Cameron, You will find that forming a good length of channel to fit inside will do the job very well. If the hinges are not kept greased the hinge pin bolt and washer can pull through the ally very easily. So back further than I care to remember we came up with several mods at build stage to sort this one. The channel inside the door was the one I favoured, rather than a flat.

cameronfurnival
25-06-2015, 01:51 PM
Hi Danny - you are right - after a couple of hours mucking about with flat channel it is just not up to the job - too much flexing - and I think a channel will work much better (I seem to remember you thought this a while back :) - hate to say you were right!). I was just going to get some ally - about 2mm I think will do - any thoughts? The hinges are fairly worn to so that's not helping but I need to return strength to the door first. The drivers side seems ok but I will strengthen that one too if it works ok on the OS.

cameronfurnival
05-12-2015, 09:46 AM
Decision made - will try to source berli doors but meanwhile will fettle what I have. The hinge needs to be dismantled first so I will find someone with gas axe to get the thing apart - will photograph it when i get a minute.

cameronfurnival
12-12-2015, 12:16 PM
Hinges have been removed. as suspected one is perfect the other is not good. The good one has the box steel carrier nice and straight, you cant see the join where the hinge pin is and the barrel of the hinge rotates freely without any discernible play. The other one has worn into the box section so there are two oval holes top and bottom of the box section. The pin is solid inside the barrel, didn't even wince when i took my gas (Mapp) to it. Does anyone have a spare one? Worth asking!!! Or failing that has anyone made one up from scratch and can give me some pointers?
Cheers.

cameronfurnival
27-12-2015, 04:40 PM
finally got the pin out in a spare 20 mins this afternoon. Had to drill all the way - the pin didn't budge at all. I'm not happy with what I have left and think I need to make a completely new hinge. from my measurements the hinge is a 20 mm round bar drilled to take a 10 mm bar - doesn't seem like that's available off the shelf. Any advice?

scott h
27-12-2015, 06:49 PM
This prompted me to take a look at my own berli hinges which have been unused for at least 12 years, and every pin is siezed! So I'm following this with interest. I will try soaking each hinge in diesel for a week then a spot of weld on the end of the pin, to stop it rotating as it does now, and some heat will hopefully free them. If not surely there is some tube available that is a snug fit on a bolt that could be cut to length and welded in.

b_caswell
28-12-2015, 01:53 PM
Im not familiar with the Berli door hinge but that bit with the grease nipple in it looks like a gas pipe tee fitting to me. Could wrong probably am.

stevejgreen
28-12-2015, 02:40 PM
Most grease nipples are still, despite metrication, either BSP tapered or parallel.
I don't think there is a standard tube size 20mm OD 10mm ID.
My preference has always been PlusGas, used it since the 1970's on injection moulds. You just need patience before you need heat. After 12 years, what's another day or two?

scott h
28-12-2015, 03:06 PM
Im not familiar with the Berli door hinge but that bit with the grease nipple in it looks like a gas pipe tee fitting to me. Could wrong probably am.
The hinge is just a bolt which is bolted to the chassis. A tube is then welded to the head of the bolt to make a T shape. A U channel with holes the same dia as the tube is lined up and a pin goes through the channel and the tube. Cut it to length and a spot of weld on each end. The tube can be previously fitted with a grease nipple. So my last resort idea is to find a bolt and a tube that are a nice fit and change both. The dia is not critical but the fit is.

b_caswell
28-12-2015, 03:29 PM
A bit like a five bar gate hinge..........http://www.hooverfence.com/catalog/hardware/locinox-hinge-GBMU16.htm

scott h
28-12-2015, 04:32 PM
Same principal but off the top of my head an M16 nut would need a 30mm spanner, so a bit smaller required.

Tony Stott
28-12-2015, 05:15 PM
recently been looking on uk ebay to buy some ostensibly fixed hinge pintles, these come in various sizes and are basically a solid piece of round bar bored out for the pin, not a complete hole,, eventually I found some here a la frog, the pin is 16mm the mounting bolt is 10mm, think 8 - 10mm seems to be normal,
I needed them to mount a steel gate, I used 'em bored out to make then rotatable as the pintle half is mounted in the wall pillar if you want a pic let me know!

cameronfurnival
31-12-2015, 11:21 AM
Interesting...thanks for the help guys. I have decided however that the original design can be improved so have come up with a cunning plan. I am going to remake the hinge using oilite bushes in a piece of steel rod! Bushes are on order now and until they arrive I will satisfy myself by making a jig to ensure the M12 bolt gets welded on at 90 degrees!
The doors are also a really good fit in their apertures so I might try and build in a bit of adjustment whilst I'm at it.
Next job is to fix the cooker for the missus then iron out the last few niggles with the electronic subs payment system before Tony gets cross with me. Have a happy new year all!

cameronfurnival
03-01-2016, 07:03 PM
welded up the holes in the door today. I made a U channel from ally then slipped it in behind the door edge - the hole where the hinge had ripped out was enough to slip it into the door frame plus the splitting at the top needed opening out a bit more.
Once in place it was clamped up (I chamfered the U channel 90 deg edges to enable it to fit in more closely). I drilled a few 9mm holes and used Durafix to plug weld it all together and fill the splits. It isnt perfect but it looks strong enough. A skim of filler will see it good!
The heat from the gas torch caused the door paint to start peeling off (it needs to come off anyway) and I was surprised that it came of in big thick strips - must be at least 1mm of paint on there.

cameronfurnival
09-01-2016, 06:33 PM
I acquired some 20mm thick tube today and the two oilite bushes had turned up in the post yesterday together with 300mm of 10mm bright steel bar. The bar was a super fit in the bushes with no reaming necessary so i drilled out the tube to take the bushes - a 13mm drill was perfect and gently tapped them in place after leaving them to soak in oil overnight. I dont know whether that was necessary but was sure I had read it somewhere. After drilling the tube it was cut to length, the bushes tapped in firmly and then offered back into the hinge box.
Before I carried on I thought I would check the old hinge and even with new bar in place it still had a discernible amount of play which would be amplified across the whole door so it went in the bin.
New hinges in place, tacked the ends in place and ground the weld down then welded on the 60mm M12 bolt. The tube has some movement up and down the pivot pin (pindle)so there is some adjustment to be had but this hinge is solid, no play at all - result!
next job is to look at the holes in the door frame for the hinges as they are both badly ovalled. I think I may open them out a bit and use a star washer to lock the nuts in place once everything is lined up again.
My missus has got involved! She tells me I cant repaint it silver and it has to be the same blue as a sunbeam alpine, like this one (http://bestcarmag.com/sites/default/files/78336251962_Sunbeam_Alpine_For_Sale_Front_resize.j pg).
7086Anyone know the proper name of this colour, I think a few minutes on google may be in order. Has anyone any knowledge of a Berli in this colour - if so what does it look like?

lil_red_roadster
09-01-2016, 08:22 PM
Errr, light blue..?
Seriously, maybe Powder Blue...going by these samples here (http://catmbr.org/VB_forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=6462&d=1416438676).

cameronfurnival
10-01-2016, 12:55 PM
DC also tells me its powder blue - he thinks it may not be a good berli colour so I am going to photoshop some images and see :)


7088

What do you think?

Tony Stott
10-01-2016, 01:59 PM
not a 'strong' colour but everyone to their choice, bearing resale in mind of course!

cameronfurnival
10-01-2016, 02:20 PM
i may be the only one who likes it :)

scott h
10-01-2016, 02:31 PM
Would not be my choice. That colour says to me "don't mind me I will just blend in" but the car is unusual and does stand out and deserves a more striking colour. Just my thoughts.

jhaines
10-01-2016, 03:24 PM
Very Similar to Triumph Wedgewood blue. Would certainly look better with navy blue wings.

Blue Marlin
10-01-2016, 07:44 PM
I would be interested to see a pic with navy wings as my roadster is a similar blue to above.

cameronfurnival
11-01-2016, 08:05 AM
7099

Tony Stott
11-01-2016, 08:34 AM
Darker Blue, oxford blue?

scott h
11-01-2016, 08:35 AM
That is a big improvement. I intend to paint mine solid blue, slightly darker than the wings shown here and probably metalic.

cameronfurnival
11-01-2016, 09:56 AM
beauty is in the eye of the beerholder of course. I am not a fan of two tone I have to say. I am trying to get a modern twist without being silly, aiming for 1950s rather than 30s look (modern!). I saw a rather splendid Adams Roadster in Wedgewood/Powder blue and it was stunning. But keep the ideas coming - I havent decided yet -though the memsahib is a force to be reckoned with.

Alan c
11-01-2016, 01:51 PM
The shade as well as the darkness has to be right (there are many blues). Hit blue car images in google - lots of options.

lizbillings
11-01-2016, 01:58 PM
I liked my Berli with Royal Blue and black wings and running boards but a strong red with black is good too.

dcunn
11-01-2016, 02:52 PM
Here's a period one for the mem - a 1929 Ruxton Model C LoL

dcunn
11-01-2016, 02:55 PM
......or you could go boring black and purple !

cameronfurnival
11-01-2016, 02:59 PM
now we're talking!

Blue Marlin
11-01-2016, 08:13 PM
I would have liked to have repainted my roadster in a new colour but the original owner did a good job of painting all the panels and chassis inside and out. As I am not stripping the body off I have decided to keep it. Going with a biscuit colour for the interior and hood etc for a change. Bit brighter than black.
I will have the exterior repainted in the original blue though as it is a bit tired and damaged.

Mike
12-01-2016, 07:44 AM
That is a big improvement. I intend to paint mine solid blue, slightly darker than the wings shown here and probably metalic.


There are lots of Blue Berlinettas in the Gallery section - some of them are fabulous: my personal favourites are:


A touch of real class

7106


A beautiful example

7107

scott h
12-01-2016, 11:38 AM
Hi Mike, I have spotted those two Berlis in the gallery, the first example is exactly what I'm aiming for. In my Berli's first life it was red so I thought a complete change was in order.

cameronfurnival
12-01-2016, 01:47 PM
Thanks Mike :) and yes Scott - I agree there are too many red cars about (saying that almost every car I have ever done I have repainted Red!!!). Wasn't that last car Peter Filby's? Whatever happened to him? Or the car?

cameronfurnival
26-01-2016, 05:50 PM
God news everybody! I now have a perfect working door! The hinge I made worked a treat, the ally strengthening plate seems to be doing its job too. One thing I noticed was that when the top hinge had come away the bottom one sank into the door. Pressing a piece of channel or angle into the frame is definitely the way to go as it pushes out any deformity and gives a nice strong door. I brazed the strengthener in place but I think it would be fine with resin too - maybe easier. I have given the frame a quick skim of p38 to finish it off. Now I notice the door has a slight curve in it - dont think it was designed that way so some gentle persuasion will be next to get it flat again. Might pop some strength into the lower frame too, its just a long slot - though not much room. Chuffed? Im chuffed to bits.

The rest of the car is coming apart slowly, its really well screwed together with no shortcuts which is nice as most of my work will be just fettling. I am thinking about moving the battery to the boot - might be a good excuse to buy a lift of some sort?

listerjp2
26-01-2016, 07:06 PM
God news everybody! I now have a perfect working door! The hinge I made worked a treat, the ally strengthening plate seems to be doing its job too. One thing I noticed was that when the top hinge had come away the bottom one sank into the door. Pressing a piece of channel or angle into the frame is definitely the way to go as it pushes out any deformity and gives a nice strong door. I brazed the strengthener in place but I think it would be fine with resin too - maybe easier. I have given the frame a quick skim of p38 to finish it off. Now I notice the door has a slight curve in it - dont think it was designed that way so some gentle persuasion will be next to get it flat again. Might pop some strength into the lower frame too, its just a long slot - though not much room. Chuffed? Im chuffed to bits.

The rest of the car is coming apart slowly, its really well screwed together with no shortcuts which is nice as most of my work will be just fettling. I am thinking about moving the battery to the boot - might be a good excuse to buy a lift of some sort?

Just a thought, I have fitted a bike battery and is a quarter of the size with just as much turning power and fit nicely on the bulkhead without resorting to wiring them in the back.

Adrian

Mike
27-01-2016, 09:50 AM
God news everybody!

Did you go up the mountain to see him?

Mike:confused:

cameronfurnival
27-01-2016, 04:06 PM
hardyhar :)

Adrian thats a really good idea - what specification is your bike battery?

listerjp2
27-01-2016, 06:17 PM
Hi

Its a powervamp racing 25 with cranking amps at 680. Can even be used upside down. Weighs in at 7kg.

Adrian

listerjp2
27-01-2016, 06:22 PM
Hi

It a powervamp racing 25 with cranuking amps at 680. Can even be used upside down. Weighs in at 7kg.

Adrian

Measures 18cm x 8cm x 16cm
7153

cameronfurnival
27-01-2016, 06:27 PM
Cheers :)

listerjp2
27-01-2016, 06:42 PM
Cheers :)

Just a note - you can get more powerful ones exactly the same size.

Suggest giving them a bell and have a chat, it really depends on the size of your engine.

cameronfurnival
30-01-2016, 01:31 PM
God news everybody! I now have a perfect working door! The hinge I made worked a treat, the ally strengthening plate seems to be doing its job too. One thing I noticed was that when the top hinge had come away the bottom one sank into the door. Pressing a piece of channel or angle into the frame is definitely the way to go as it pushes out any deformity and gives a nice strong door. I brazed the strengthener in place but I think it would be fine with resin too - maybe easier. I have given the frame a quick skim of p38 to finish it off. Now I notice the door has a slight curve in it - dont think it was designed that way so some gentle persuasion will be next to get it flat again. Might pop some strength into the lower frame too, its just a long slot - though not much room.

many thanks to those of you who contacted me by email to say the door slot should have had a strengthener or two in it already and especial thanks to Dave who sent me the relevant page from the build manual.
I have made up two pieces and screwed them in as per the diagram and guess what? Now the window goes up and down smoothly too - one less job to do on this door! I am now stripping paint back for a skim of filler to get it a straight as possible. Now how do those window seals come out and is it possible to get new ones? Are they cortina? If anyone has a build manual they want to lend me ???

7158

Tony Stott
30-01-2016, 02:55 PM
I can scan em and forward if you want

cameronfurnival
30-01-2016, 04:39 PM
many thanks - and also for hte emails - i now have a digital copy of the manual :)

cameronfurnival
21-10-2016, 03:46 PM
Quick Update, enjoying the first afternoon free in over six months I decided to get on with some stripping. Its got to be done, I know I could have repaired locally but it wouldnt be right by the car so I have started taking all the paint off. I got my air powered DA sander going (the electric DIY job wasnt even getting through the first coat) and soon found out the car has 12 layers of paint. I am using industrial strength paint stripper on the metal bits, its quite slow so needs plenty of attention. Getting through that top two layers of silver is taking huge quantities of the stuff. BUt I would rather do it slow than rush it. I have now cleaned back half of the NS wing, the NS flitch panel, door hinge cover and sill all the way along. I'm quite pleased.
I have also decided to basically restore the whole car whilst I am at it and hopefully will end up with a lovely example.

cameronfurnival
30-10-2016, 02:18 PM
Dashboard has been out and all the peeling varnish removed. Wiring fettled a little, excess carpet trimmed away and starting to go back together - just a quick break from scraping paint off.

8010

David
30-10-2016, 02:52 PM
That looks very nice.

Mike
30-10-2016, 09:37 PM
That looks very nice.

... +1

dcunn
30-10-2016, 11:42 PM
...........+ 1 more
Great Job

Alan c
31-10-2016, 02:34 AM
I have not seen anything as well polished as that since my Grans sideboard!

cameronfurnival
31-10-2016, 09:28 AM
haha! It has five coats of very hard varnish (for floors I believe) sanded between each. The original was probably only one or two coats. I have now remade the tunnel top and am about to redye the vinyl parts - probably black. New batch of sanding discs arrived this morning so as soon as I get a chance I'm back at it.

cameronfurnival
21-11-2016, 07:59 AM
After a rather horrendous storm on Friday which saw three massive trees come down on my garden I have some tidying up to do. Its a good excuse though to go back into the garage and have a look at how things are progressing. The sanding back is still slow, I contacted a media blaster nearby and he told me it would cost 120 per hour and probably take 7 or 8 hours to do the job (not including the extensive stripping down I would have to do first). That's a lot of dosh. Just think about that, if I media blast and then have it professionally resprayed you are talking somewhere between three and four grand! :eek: Possibly more than it will be worth...ever! So, the labour of love continues.
I was just looking at the seats. At one time they would have been a nice bright red but are now faded to orange. I think I will recolour them but before I take the plunge and order the dyes etc I was wondering if anyone has a product they would recommend?

dogoncrazy
21-11-2016, 09:18 AM
Furniture clinic had an impressive demonstration of their leather care products at the NEC classic car show.

cameronfurnival
12-12-2016, 02:49 PM
i have loked at the furniture clinic stuff and swwapped some emails - seems a good choice - as soon as i canget some warmer weather in which to spray...
Meanwhile, stripdown carries on...turning out to be a funny car this - alsmoast everything is assembeld to a really high standard but then you get one or two quirky bits - like the coiled brake pipe on the cross member and the bashed in exhaust (to clear the column). Never mind, onwards and backwards!

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dcunn
12-12-2016, 03:55 PM
"Onwards and backwards" seems about right for kit car rebuilds, it's like the old aviation adage "hurry up and wait"

I just need to keep looking at the "before" pics to convince myself that there really is progress

cameronfurnival
12-12-2016, 06:29 PM
you are on the home stretch now DC don't give in! I'm still stripping off layers and layers of paint! I have found that the problme layer was the original red and cream - it didnt stick in places and so the following silver coats have lifted.

cameronfurnival
21-12-2016, 07:47 AM
I have done a lot of stripping! Just the scuttle, bonnet and tub left to do - and then a whole load of remedial work to the grp - its not in very good nick I'm afraid with lots of previous repairs evident and star crazing, cracks holes etc. Still, better than watching telly at this time of year!

Here's a question for you engineer types...

The bonnet hinge is held together by lots of these little blighters - its a splined cap with M5 thread and 8mm nut, What are they called? I want to get new ones.

8097

ANd merry christmas one and all :)

listerjp2
21-12-2016, 08:24 AM
Cant help with bolts but don't forget Captain Tolleys Creaping Crack Cure, it really does save a lot of sanding.

I have used it to great effect and the cracks don't reappear.

Regards

Adrian

cameronfurnival
21-12-2016, 09:27 AM
Cheers Adrian - I had forgotten about that! :)

dcunn
21-12-2016, 10:14 AM
Rivnut sort of things ? Wood nuts ?

Happy Hols and stripping
XXX DC

listerjp2
21-12-2016, 10:46 AM
Cheers Adrian - I had forgotten about that! :)

See

http://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?3447-Stoneleigh-and-Captain-Tolleys-Creeping-Crack-Cure&highlight=Captain+tolleys

Mike
21-12-2016, 12:15 PM
See

http://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/showthread.php?3447-Stoneleigh-and-Captain-Tolleys-Creeping-Crack-Cure&highlight=Captain+tolleys

Adrian
Looks like a useful product to have around - I've ordered a small one to try it out.
Thanks for the tip

Happy Christmas to one and all

Mike

b_caswell
21-12-2016, 03:43 PM
They are called "Internuts" or google Interrscrews they use them in the marine industry

http://www.interscrew.co.uk/marine-interscrew/marine-un-slotted-interscrews?zenid=d7cc6efibdpcr77mhm6pj219q2

see Roadster tech tips part 1 Pages 13-14.

cameronfurnival
21-12-2016, 06:10 PM
Ben, you never cease to amaze me with the stuff you know! Thanks ever so much and have a great Christmas!

b_caswell
21-12-2016, 10:49 PM
Just remember reading the original article written by Peter Hare

Alan B Gloucester
22-12-2016, 02:18 AM
If you look on eBay at rivnuts you'll find them on there. I have used these on my berli for mounting my seat belt anchoring some five years ago and there are still as strong as ever. Also there is a utube video to show a cheap method on how to fit them.
Cheers and merry Christmas.
Alan.

cameronfurnival
22-12-2016, 03:19 PM
THanks ALan, notrivnuts they are totally closed at the top - Ben was right they are interscrews - look fairly pricey so I will salvage as many as possible :)

AdminUser
12-06-2017, 07:47 AM
Its about time I updated this thread. I'm still stripping the old paint off...using whatever method I can for each panel. Its very time consuming - and that's something I have been in short supply of. However, I just have one door left to strip, the rear tub and the scuttle panel (which you can see I have started in one of the pics below.
I had a rare day off and so decided to do something more interesting than paint stripping so I replaced the cam belt - easy enough on the pinto, a 30 minute job. The old cambelt looked completely ok but I didn't know when it had been last replaced so did it for peace of mind.
I also looked at the electric fan on the front of the rad, whilst there has been no indication of overheating again I didn't want to find myself in that position so I upgraded it - I got a new 12" curved blade fan from Demon Tweeks for a very paltry sum.
So here's some pictures.

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new fan
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Here you can see how the stripping is going. Its rarely the case you would need to strip right back but in this case there were signs of poor adhesion so I thought it best. Please note that isn't a bottle of paintstripper on there!
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I cleaned up the bulkhead and heater unit. The washer bottle was going in the bin till I saw they cost 60 on ebay! So a quick run through the dishwasher (along with the expansion tank) and then created a new bracket (it was originally glued onto the ally bulkhead) with a period retainer band (hoover belt) some new tubing and it looks a lot tidier.

PS in the first pic you can see a brake pipe on the cross member with a neat curl in it. Is that a design feature? :)

Michael Turpin
12-06-2017, 06:02 PM
I think the loop in the brake pipe is to allow for expansion/contraction between the two end termination.
I noticed your expansion tank can you remember what it came from, I have the identical one and can't remember what it came off, 20+ years ago you could crawl all over a scrap yard taking bits from a variety of old cars and not really caring what it came from. As a matter of interest where do the pipes go to ? Mine - the lower one goes to the top of the radiator and the top is used to pressure fill the system as there isn't a radiator cap on the radiator.
The restoration seems to be coming on well

8718

greyV8pete
12-06-2017, 06:51 PM
Resto looking brill! I reckon the pigtail in the brake line is to "loose" about 9" of brake line allowing a much longer than needed one to be used off the shelf without the need to cut and flare. Have done it myself! :cool: Peter.

Michael Turpin
12-06-2017, 07:40 PM
Checking back on my build the loop also allows the disconnection of the union leaving some "give" in the pipe for maintenance etc

AdminUser
12-06-2017, 08:09 PM
I thought as much Peter - not sure whether I will leave it alone or shorten it.
Michael, I have just popped out and taken a quick piccie of the plumbing arrangements so you can see how mine fits together, as for the expansion bottle I have no idea - it looks Fordish but has no FoMoCo marking. I will have an investigate.

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AdminUser
18-06-2017, 12:46 PM
Such a lovely day...so I got one of the kids outside with the promise of a few shillings if they wanted to help get the old paint off the rear tub. I had repaired and rehung the OS door so now have a pair of correctly swinging and shutting doors; one I stripped with the strypit discs but someone wanted extra pocket money - so I poured a nice cold drink and sat under the fan whilst my slave got on with the job...

8786

Once the 2K silver is off (it comes off in strips doing it with a hot air stripper) the celly will sand back nicely. Enjoy the sunshine!

AdminUser
01-07-2017, 11:35 AM
starting on the rear light pods now. All the paint is off and the mammoth task of levelling everything up is beginning. Still its a nice day... here's the original and new lights for comparison.

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cameronfurnival
13-09-2017, 02:50 PM
Exhausting!
The lovely 4-2-1 exhaust was causing me some grief, it just isn't right! This car was obviously built to a pretty good spec yet the solution to teh exhaust fouling the steering column was to bang a great dent in it.
9099
I screwed it to the bench so it wouldn't wriggle about and cut out the bent bit - then I popped off to Demon Tweeks for a 90 mandrel bend which I welded into the gap. It all seemed fine so a coat of paint later and loads of room for the steering I was well pleased.
A new gasket set and here we go...
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Whilst I was there I popped in a new set of plugs. Number 1 was a lovely biscuity colour but No 4 was very sooty. Heres the bit of exhaust removed and Nos 1 &4 plugs.

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Alan c
14-09-2017, 07:01 AM
plugs suggest underlying problem (oil scraper ring on piston gone, valeve stem seal, carb set up, porting?)

AdminUser
14-09-2017, 09:02 PM
once i have rebuilt the exhaust system in its entirety I will set up the mixture etc. the car has electronic ignition so just a timing check will suffice, then check the valve clearances - love doing that on pintos! - then a gunsons mixture adjustment and all will be well. the engine runs too well for me to suspect ring issues and no blue smoke - well fingers crossed!

b_caswell
14-09-2017, 09:12 PM
If I am right the fouled plug came from the same bore that had the restricted exhaust????

AdminUser
14-09-2017, 09:59 PM
Spot on Ben...

cameronfurnival
11-10-2017, 07:19 AM
Paint!
Finally after what seems like years of rubbing and fettling I have begun to paint. Heater on full blast even though the weather is still mild (turn it off when spraying of course!) coat of etch wash 2k followed by polyester filler. Never used the poly before but it goes on well and covers nicely. I use a 2.0 jet for primers and a 1.4 for top coat. Pic shows the ally panels. Second coat of poly should go on today then a bit more rubbing before the top coat tomorrow. Once these panels are done I will start on the grp. I will use 2k waterborne paint for the top coats - again that will be new to me so I will let you know how it goes.

9194

wiggiesworld
11-10-2017, 07:42 AM
Are you putting some clear (lacquer) coats on at the end?

cameronfurnival
11-10-2017, 08:36 AM
No just a solid colour, shouldn't need a clear. Should be good to go straight from the gun or so the manufacturer states.

AdminUser
11-10-2017, 09:22 PM
Ran out of the poly filler, used 1litre so far.. Reckon the amounts needed are 1litre etch primer, 2 litres primer filler and 2.5 litres top coat for a Berli.

cameronfurnival
18-10-2017, 11:06 AM
finished the primer layer now, waiting for it to dry off before blocking then put on the nice new top coat.

9236

cameronfurnival
26-10-2017, 11:04 AM
Hopefully the final day of paint today. I will then spend a couple of days buffing to get a nice shine although I have to say 2K solid colour does come out nice straight from the gun.
Meanwhile I bought a role of Stainless wire mesh to make a nice shiny grille. I have loads left so if anyone wants it? (I have used 1/4 of a square meter but cut it on the bias so the chunk missing means almost 60cm chunk taken out). It cost about 40 for the whole sheet and I reckon there are at least two more grilles to be got out of it. And yes, here's a pic...The new colour is a nice classic Old English White.

9303

David
26-10-2017, 06:51 PM
I love the 'old white' colours, we had one of the new Mini's (the Clubvan) in Pepper White as BMW call it.

cameronfurnival
29-10-2017, 12:13 PM
Refitting the doors today and everything seemed to go ok - well mostly.
The passenger door glass wont stay up - the regulator just allows it to drop - question is - what have I done? It was working fine before I cleaned it! All the springs seem ok - ie not detached or broken?
Advice gratefully received!

PS the choice of OEW as the colour was influenced by my missus's new mini - in white! :)

scott h
29-10-2017, 07:47 PM
The window dropping is surely the springs not doing their job properly? I would take another look and maybe compare it to the one that works.

AdminUser
30-10-2017, 07:05 AM
Hi Scott, that's what I thought too but there is no difference between the two regulators I can see?? I was confused because it was stiff in the frame before I took it apart. The only think I can think off is the old window strips were holding it up, now they are new and smooth that no longer is the case. I shall just have to get another one.

Glad I finished painting last week as it about freezing today!

scott h
30-10-2017, 08:08 AM
From memory each arm has a coil spring. I wonder if you could wind it up so to speak by turning each one an extra turn?

cameronfurnival
01-11-2017, 05:08 PM
Problem solved. I had inadvertently swapped the winding regulator mechanisms from side to side! The springs help raise the window and now that I have swapped them over I see the mechanisms work really well.
Meanwhile I am unhappy with the repair to the door I made. I reinforced the hinges on both doors but the passenger door is not so good. There is still some minor movement in the metal so I am going to look out for a better door before I strip it and repair again.
Paint is coming on well, just rubbing out the last of the orange peel to get the shine back, I don't want it too shiny as I don't want that plasticky 2k look.
The wheels were another thing letting the car down so I have got hold of some multispoke alloys to replace them with. If anyone would like a set of 5 BBS style compomotives in excellent condition (but painted a kind of grey) let me know and I will get my bartering cap out. They currently have a set of unworn 195/60/15s on which I may transfer to the new set, let's see what happens. Will try and get some pics up soon.

angusgrooby
02-11-2017, 10:06 AM
Hi Cameron, would there be any chance of a picture of your top wishbones please they do not look like mine standard cortina, looks as if you have adjustable wishbones. Thinking of getting some adjustable ones made to correct the negative camber on mine so some pictures would be good.
Thanks

cameronfurnival
02-11-2017, 12:14 PM
Yes they are the adjustable ones :) Very nifty... Here are some pics...


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wiggiesworld
02-11-2017, 02:30 PM
Ooo, liking the look of your new wheels, could you say the style and where they are from please?

angusgrooby
02-11-2017, 07:00 PM
Thanks for the pics Cameron your car is looking really good enjoying your build thread.

cameronfurnival
02-11-2017, 08:05 PM
you are welcome :) as with anything I do ( and I'm sure others who rebuild these cars will testify) it's never simple. My new alloys arrived today AEZ 15 inch (seen in the pic above) I purchased them as 4x108 but when they arrived they are clearly marked 100!!! Beggars belief that people cant read simple details! I am sending them back on Monday unless someone wants a set of alloys fit for a corsa chav mobile or similar! 2 good tyres! 100?

Meanwhile the passenger door has drooped further - I repaired that one with L angle, the drivers side is rock solid but I uses U channel on that one - guess which one is recommended from now on? So hoping I can find a good passenger door somewhere.

Meanwhile it comes on quite nicely, I want it to be good and reflect the care and attention to detail that was put into the original build and subsequent upgrades.

David
02-01-2018, 07:27 PM
Thanks Mike :) and yes Scott - I agree there are too many red cars about (saying that almost every car I have ever done I have repainted Red!!!). Wasn't that last car Peter Filby's? Whatever happened to him? Or the car?

I just saw this car for sale on Gumtree and remembered this thread, so two years on we have an answer, on the car at least.

https://www.gumtree.com/p/marlin/ford-marlin-berlinetta/1281326065

b_caswell
02-01-2018, 09:06 PM
Tried to put a link to original post but failed for the momenthttp://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=7107&d=1452588132

AdminUser
02-01-2018, 09:18 PM
Interesting... priced right? A car which is part of marlin history?

David
03-01-2018, 08:49 AM
I've been looking for a 6 powered Berli to buy in Feb so this looks like a contender. Interesting that the interior trim appears to have changed from grey to beige at some time.

AdminUser
05-01-2018, 08:05 AM
Thought I would post a couple of pics to let you know its still ongoing...
Rewire all finished-bar replacing a reverse light bulb. New rear lights look good - but no pic of that end just yet.

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scott h
05-01-2018, 08:38 AM
Looking great! I often find that although I have been busy it can be a while before there is something worthy of a post to my build diary. Looks like you will make Stoneleigh easily, wish the same was true for me. I will give it my best shot.

AdminUser
20-02-2018, 10:35 AM
Just pushed car out of garage to let it enjoy some sunshine! And remembered I hadn't taken a pic of the new lights on the rear end..so here it is...

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AdminUser
22-03-2018, 11:46 AM
Today I tried vinylkote.
The seats in the Berli are nice enough and dont have any damage - maybe a few pressure marks form storage. However, they were badly faded from exposure to sunlight. The unexposed bits were bright red and the exposed bits orange.
The first stage is to disassemble as much as possible. Then you clean with vinylkleen. This is a strong detergent and is diluted 1:4 ish. I applied with an old tea towel and gave the seat a good old scrub, a nail brush might have worked better but it was amazing the grime that came out.
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and after
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Then I used the vinylPrep which is some sort of solvent as it leaves the surface tacky. I applied it with a bit of polishing cloth and kept turning it over, the amount of additional muck that came out was amazing.
I have spray equipment and so I used that but vinylkote comes in aerosols too. I bought 1 litre of matt charcoal/black and sprayed it at 30psi with a 1.4 jet. Lots of light coats - well about three is the result in this pic. I thinkI may give it another couple as well. I have to say I was doubtful of the claims but am eating my words - it really is an excellent finish.
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wiggiesworld
22-03-2018, 08:33 PM
Today I tried vinylkote.
The seats in the Berli are nice enough and dont have any damage - maybe a few pressure marks form storage. However, they were badly faded from exposure to sunlight. The unexposed bits were bright red and the exposed bits orange.
The first stage is to disassemble as much as possible. Then you clean with vinylkleen. This is a strong detergent and is diluted 1:4 ish. I applied with an old tea towel and gave the seat a good old scrub, a nail brush might have worked better but it was amazing the grime that came out.
9645
and after
9644

Then I used the vinylPrep which is some sort of solvent as it leaves the surface tacky. I applied it with a bit of polishing cloth and kept turning it over, the amount of additional muck that came out was amazing.
I have spray equipment and so I used that but vinylkote comes in aerosols too. I bought 1 litre of matt charcoal/black and sprayed it at 30psi with a 1.4 jet. Lots of light coats - well about three is the result in this pic. I thinkI may give it another couple as well. I have to say I was doubtful of the claims but am eating my words - it really is an excellent finish.
9646

9647

9648

9649

Impressive.... gives me a clue of the standard I should be aiming for with my seats resto.

AdminUser
30-03-2018, 04:08 PM
Fitting the new doors today - what a palaver. I just cant seem to get a decent fit. Using the hinges and everything 'as is' means the door bottom hits the cill panel about 6" in from the hinge. Adding a shim between the lower hinge and the door about 4m :o thick gets the clearance on the cill even but brings the screen frame closer at the top than the bottom. And the rear top corner of the door is hitting the B post. The hinges are sound with marginal play.
Putting the car away now whilst I have a sulk and a think (or read...till one of the MOC crew tells me what I'm doing wrong!).

scott h
30-03-2018, 05:09 PM
You could try swapping the hinges around, top for bottom or on the other door, that's what I had to do. Also if you elongate the holes in the door just a touch it gives you a couple of mm vertical adjustment. The other thing is that the windscreen frame will move a small amount if you slacken the bolts (assuming that the glass is not fitted yet to avoid breaking it!). The last thing I can think of is to only tighten the hinge bolts to the chassis when the door is closed, to give smooth operation of the latch. I've just been doing all of the above in the last couple of weeks as I get mine ready for paint.

AdminUser
30-03-2018, 06:35 PM
Thanks Scott, I have tried swapping hinges but suspect that they are the problem. I am going to put the door in the gap tomorrow and square it up, and then see where the hinges come to. If there is too much leeway I will make some new ones - I have done this before with sintered bronze bushes to alleviate the seizure they so often suffer from. the Berli is a lovely car but the door hinges are a real design problem imho. I like the idea of tightening the chassis bolts when closed, hadn't thought of that.

h_m_cumming
30-03-2018, 06:58 PM
If it's like the Roadster you'll find a twist in the wing which brings the outer edge up and fouls the door bottoms. I put a bracket under the wing to pull it down, the N/S was the worst.

AdminUser
01-04-2018, 04:58 PM
Thanks Hugh, not like the roadster I'm afraid, much more complicated yet not as successful!
Today I wedged the door into the hole and found that the gap is not perfect - these are brand new doors so didn't come with the car originally, ... should have done this first I know!
there is a slightly wider gap at the bottom than the top on both ends so it will be what it will be! It is marginal however so I'm not too discouraged. The fault is indeed with the hinges (original) in so far as they have a bit of up and down movement thought hardly any wobble thank goodness. I will simply try drilling the holes in the door leading edge a bit longer and that could give me the adjustment I need. Hopefully the N/S will be better as I made new hinges already for that side - they are a bit tricky to get square so I would rather not make a new set unless I really have to.

Then its just a case of refitting the interior, make some new seat belt stalk mounts (I am moving the seat a tad), sort out the speedo drive, finish the wiring under the dash, and then MOT it. Shouldn't take long.

PS I noticed the hood's window has come adrift at the top seam - bother - something else to worry about!

h_m_cumming
01-04-2018, 05:50 PM
Don't worry, you'll never actually finish.:rolleyes:

AdminUser
18-04-2018, 01:23 PM
Thanks Hugh :p
Finally it is starting to warm up so I have left all the work on the desk and got on to starting to fit up.

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Tony Stott
18-04-2018, 06:22 PM
hi
when you replaced the timing belt was that with the rad in place etc, just starting to do mine and am needing so,e re assurance etc I am going about it correctly!

AdminUser
19-04-2018, 11:26 AM
HI Tony yes there is plenty of room. The hardest part is getting the cam belt cover off but its not actually difficult.
Some people like to cut the belt in half (longitudinally!) then slide on the new one before cutting off the remains of the old one, never done it myself that way but it does save retiming everything.
THe whole job only takes around 30 minutes.

AdminUser
19-04-2018, 11:33 AM
Beautiful day so drove the wee beast out into the sunshine. Need to fit the hinge cover panels next. But today it will be some 1200 and a bucket of soapy water before getting the mop out.
The NS door is a brand new item but I spent a long time fettling the OS so decided to keep it, as it is now a good door. This does mean I have a brand new (strengthened) driver side door if anyone needs one.

9792

Tony Stott
19-04-2018, 12:08 PM
thanks for that, had a look at good 'ole u tube and am now reassembling it all -- been rolling for about an hour and a half so far, life is a voyage of discovery as my dad (now long gone) used to say! Hopefully all back by the end of the afternoon, its hot here, 25'c.

AdminUser
25-04-2018, 03:22 PM
Quick question for other Berli owners, I dont want to put the mirrors on the door but if I place them on the screen frame the door will bash into them unless quite high. Do I see from the gallery that some have them on the door glass channels? If so what is the best way of fitting?
These are my mirrors...the base is narrow enough and has two 5mm holes 42mm apart

9807

AdminUser
29-04-2018, 10:46 AM
sorted. Drilled and tapped the door window frames, Seems very secure.

billjackson54
29-04-2018, 01:46 PM
I used a rivnuts into the sloping section below the window to fit the mirror to the n/s door of my Berli....and I see from the pictures on this forum of my car 11 years on that it's still on.

AdminUser
01-05-2018, 11:19 AM
As you will have seen elsewhere the Berli is now up for sale - an imminent house move precludes me taking her with me so I will sell her now and buy again once the move is sorted.
Starting with a good car is always a good way to begin and this one was no exception. Recommissioning of the mechanics was needed and that was straightforward, with things renewed upgraded as I went through it. The paintwork was awful and there was only one way to do it - that was to strip it all back to the original substrates to prevent further reactions - at least if the new owner wants to change its colour there is a sound base on which to do it!
So, to end this diary I have added the pictures I used on ebay - you never know they may help someone else in the future.

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9820

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AdminUser
11-05-2018, 06:45 AM
Well this story now comes to an end, the car sold on ebay and will be moving on to a classic car dealer in France next week. The sale price was a little more than I expected and a little less than I hoped for but the market finds its own levels I'm sure.

Thought I would finish with a copy of the original car as it came to me.

9920

RIght...next project!

928cdu
11-05-2018, 08:09 PM
Which will be a ......??????