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meverett
07-03-2017, 08:07 PM
Hi everyone,
Thought I had better start on my rebuild diary as my roadster has been stripped to the bare chassis, wire brushed with angle grinder then a couple of coats of primer so far.

8223

Ready for top coat.

8224

I had an old barrel hanging around so thought that would make a good sand blasting cabinet, with a few bits removed from the skips at work, a pair of cabinet gloves purchased from eBay and I have my own cabinet.

8226

In the mean time I have stripped the front suspension down and sandblasted the paint and rust off before primer and topcoat.

8225

I started a thread a couple of weeks ago about a replacement master cylinder and servo but after a bit of TLC my original Marina/Ital one will be OK, looking through the vacuum hole the diaphragm looks to be in good condition. The master cylinder has had the same treatment with a new set of seals ready to fit. Before anyone asks, no I didn't sand blast the servo, I plugged up all the holes and wire brushed it.

8227

scott h
07-03-2017, 10:12 PM
Great to see another build diary, nice clear pics too!

stevejgreen
08-03-2017, 06:40 AM
Looking good progress.
One thing I would suggest, if it's not too late is to review the rear seat belt mounting. Later Roadster chassis versions had a substantial pillar behind the seats giving a solid mounting for an inertia reel belt and raising the shoulder anchorage point.
It would not pass an IVA as it has to be above the cockpit surround, but it will be a lot safer.
But if you have just painted the chassis I can understand why you might leave it as is.

Alan c
08-03-2017, 06:48 AM
I like the homemade shot blaster. I did similar but no where near that quality, eventually bought a one from Machine Mart. It comes with a thin polythene sheet taped inside the Perspex lid so you rip of an fit a new one from time to time rather than the perspex itself being replaced. Just a thought as visibility was part of the demise of my home made device.

meverett
08-03-2017, 05:21 PM
I have the updated seat belt mounts somewhere in the garage that will get the same treatment with wire brushing then shot blasting to get to the difficult to reach corners.
I have already gone through 2 panes of old Perspex, surprised how blasted this gets which makes it almost impossible to see through. Thanks for the advice of some thin plastic film that can be replaced easily, I have got one more old piece of Perspex and some clear pallet packaging wrap that I will try before I have to reluctantly pay for some new Perspex. I have also changed the gun to be gravity fed from a funnel that holds about 3L of shot as my compressor isn't up to continuous blasting but it does the job.

Michael Turpin
08-03-2017, 08:22 PM
I had an old barrel hanging around so thought that would make a good sand blasting cabinet, with a few bits removed from the skips at work, a pair of cabinet gloves purchased from eBay and I have my own cabinet.

Nice blaster, does the Dyson suck excess dust out through the white pipe at top left? I made my own and use an extractor fan (built in) which which stops "the glass window" (in my case) from being frosted. and a couple of bulk head light fittings

8228
I found that "glass beads" were best as a blast medium kept in a bucket with a 60 watt light bulb in the bottom to keep it perfectly dry, this was then connected with a piece of flexible pipe to the tube of the gun and to a connector in the bottom of the bucket bucket. the bucket hangs in the top of the cabinet to help gravity feed. it just needed the bucket filling occasionally.

meverett
09-03-2017, 08:28 PM
The Dyson is connected to the white sink waste pipe, I also drilled some random holes so that there wasn't direct suction, it does the job and clears the dust. I am using aluminium oxide and screened at <0.8mm. I leave it in the bottom of the barrel and just use a scoop when the funnel empties. Could do with some decent lighting in it as currently just using an LED torch.

meverett
01-04-2017, 07:49 PM
Top coat on the chassis today.

8298

I have also fully stripped the front suspension, repainted and replaced the ball joints, trunions, wheel bearings and caliper piston & seals. Next job is to start rebuilding the front.

8300

I removed the rear brake drums to clean up and repaint and noticed a crack in one, has anyone seen these crack like this before?

8299

How much time have I spent in the garage so far and I haven't even got anything bolted back to the chassis.

928cdu
02-04-2017, 06:54 AM
Love the way the chasss is strong enough to support it with axle stands under the 'bumpers' ! BTW I often use that method on my fully built roadster, just with some protection on the axle stand cradle ..

meverett
02-04-2017, 10:12 PM
Front suspension is bolted on

8307

jon_wilkinson
03-04-2017, 07:50 AM
Looking good.

Keep them coming!

meverett
04-04-2017, 08:50 PM
Steering rack cleaned, checked ok and painted. Greased up and new boots fitted this evening.

8320

8321

michael47
07-04-2017, 01:39 AM
Looking great Quality as good as can be

Hi everyone,
Thought I had better start on my rebuild diary as my roadster has been stripped to the bare chassis, wire brushed with angle grinder then a couple of coats of primer so far.

8223

Ready for top coat.

8224

I had an old barrel hanging around so thought that would make a good sand blasting cabinet, with a few bits removed from the skips at work, a pair of cabinet gloves purchased from eBay and I have my own cabinet.

8226

In the mean time I have stripped the front suspension down and sandblasted the paint and rust off before primer and topcoat.

8225

I started a thread a couple of weeks ago about a replacement master cylinder and servo but after a bit of TLC my original Marina/Ital one will be OK, looking through the vacuum hole the diaphragm looks to be in good condition. The master cylinder has had the same treatment with a new set of seals ready to fit. Before anyone asks, no I didn't sand blast the servo, I plugged up all the holes and wire brushed it.

8227


Top coat on the chassis today.

8298

I have also fully stripped the front suspension, repainted and replaced the ball joints, trunions, wheel bearings and caliper piston & seals. Next job is to start rebuilding the front.

8300

I removed the rear brake drums to clean up and repaint and noticed a crack in one, has anyone seen these crack like this before?

8299

How much time have I spent in the garage so far and I haven't even got anything bolted back to the chassis.


Steering rack cleaned, checked ok and painted. Greased up and new boots fitted this evening.

8320

8321

meverett
14-04-2017, 09:14 PM
Stripped the rear axle down and stripped the paint before repainting then new bearings and seals.

From this. (Do you like my toy car road rug?)

83628363

To this.

83648365

Next it's getting the bulkhead, tunnel and rear bulkhead to be stripped of all old adhesive then bolted back in.

Looking through the original build manual it will then be engine and gearbox back in, exciting times.

AdminUser
15-04-2017, 07:27 AM
looking excellent!

David
15-04-2017, 09:48 AM
That is all looking good, I'm feeling slightly embarrassed that I'm still working up the enthusiasm to re-visit my leaky choke mechanism... small job, but lacking enthusiasm to continue the saga. I should have returned the carbs as 'not fit for purpose' instead of deciding to correct the bad workmanship myself!

meverett
15-04-2017, 08:14 PM
Been busy today cleaning up the bulkhead.

Before.

8366

After.

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And fitted to the chassis.

8368

andyf
16-04-2017, 05:43 AM
If you haven't already thought of it you should consider adding the bulkhead strengthening to stop it cracking.

meverett
16-04-2017, 07:40 AM
Thanks for that. I have got it and dug it out to be stripped and repainted.
It is the triangle that bolts onto the servo mounting plate and bolts to the side louvred bonnet. Is this the best design or is there one that takes it down to the chassis?

andyf
16-04-2017, 08:11 AM
It's the factory design that I think most people use. I used an old kart track rod and made a couple of brackets to fix it between the peddle box and the chassis. There are some pictures in my blog. I may have another track rod lying around, I'll have a look in the week.

h_m_cumming
16-04-2017, 11:13 AM
I put a piece of alloy angle from side to side across the top of the tunnel and pop rivited it top and bottom as a permanent fixture. I'll try and find a pic.

h_m_cumming
16-04-2017, 11:17 AM
Here we go, you can see it running along the fold.

meverett
16-04-2017, 04:21 PM
Thanks for the advice, I will have to find some angle aluminium and do the same.
Did it interfere with the accelerator pedal fixing bracket?

andyf
16-04-2017, 05:03 PM
I have something similar as well as the brace. I thiBK it should be fine. Mine is at the limit of what the studs will fit through.

h_m_cumming
16-04-2017, 05:37 PM
From memory, and it is a long time ago, no, there wasn't any problems and its been like that since 1990.

meverett
16-04-2017, 09:01 PM
Been stripping the bell housing off the gearbox today to clean up ready to paint. The first motion shaft oil seal was perished and gasket fell to bits so ordered a new set. Put the build wheels on and noticed I have got a camber issue as in the picture. I haven't taken any measurements yet other than one side is sitting 5 mm higher on the damper (centre to centre of mounting bolts) even though I set the outer ends of the suspension arms 150mm lower than the inner mounting so some minor adjustments to be made.

8396

andyf
16-04-2017, 11:56 PM
I wouldn't worry until you put the engine and box in as it will settle down then.

dcunn
17-04-2017, 07:51 AM
Suggest as Andy says you wait a while. May even be better to wait until its all together then get in and and bounce it around a bit

meverett
17-04-2017, 09:07 AM
Ok thanks will wait. I have a set of adjustable tie rods that I am going to clean up and replace the standard ones as well.
As for a panhard rod in my other thread, do they help, would the RTL linkage be better? That looks a neat solution to the sideways movement of the back end. Has anyone fabricated one at home?

b_caswell
17-04-2017, 10:39 AM
In case you haven't noticed the bottom bolt in the bell housing has a copper washer and needs to go back in the bottom bolt hole.

meverett
17-04-2017, 12:12 PM
Good point Ben, many thanks. Just checked the bolts that I had removed and they all have spring washers so I had better look for a copper washer. When I removed the bell housing there was a fair bit of silicone that I had to clean up, as the oil seal had failed the last owner decided that was best instead of replacing the seal and gasket. I have also noticed that they misplaced one of the laygear springs as well so I have ordered one of those. I now feel the need to remove the final drive flange to replace that oil seal and while I am at it remove the rear extension to replace that gasket. Getting the final drive flange off is proving to be a challenge though.

b_caswell
17-04-2017, 08:50 PM
Assuming you have managed to get the end nut undone 150 ft/lbs the flange should come away its on splines. a small two legged puller should do it.

lil_red_roadster
17-04-2017, 09:10 PM
Or in my case, rear tub off, handbrake hard on, a foot on each rear tyre & a 4" scaffold pole over the torque wrench were sufficient to shift the nut...as Ben says the flange is easy after that :eek:

Blue Marlin
18-04-2017, 08:02 PM
I bought a £60 impact gun and socket from fleabay and buzzed it. It came off no problem. Maybe I was just lucky.:rolleyes:

meverett
18-04-2017, 09:42 PM
When I said the final drive I meant the prop shaft flange on the gearbox. Gearbox is off the car with the bell housing removed and currently sitting on the work mate.
I used a piece of 3' box section and drilled two 10mm holes approx 58mm apart and bolted this to the flange then using the breaker bar and socket on the nut it gave way. That bugger was tight but got there and the flange just pulls off easy revealing another slightly perished oil seal. Now to split the gearbox from the rear extension to replace the gasket then put it all back together.

meverett
20-04-2017, 08:46 PM
I stripped the rear extension off the gearbox to replace the gasket, done and back together. I now know where the 3rd laygear spring went, after checking I had all gears after putting it back together I saw the chewed up spring through one of the bell housing bolt holes.

8409

Whilst trying to retrieve this spring I noticed what looks like a layshaft needle roller bearing (a single needle) and I haven't even stripped it down to that extent, a few choice words as I am now thinking it will be a complete strip down to put that one needle back in.

b_caswell
20-04-2017, 09:54 PM
Not sure how a needle roller could escape unless you pulled the lay shaft spindle back when taking off the rear extension. The rear extension will need to come back off even if only to allow the lay shaft spindle to slide back about an inch or so to replace the needle.
You need to use your little finger with loads of grease in the front as you pull the spindle backwards to stop dropping more needles before trying to replace the stray needle.

Best of luck with that!!

meverett
20-04-2017, 10:49 PM
Hi Ben, I didn't disturb the lay shaft, I also couldn't understand how a roller pin could come out. It could have been in there from the original assembly.
My thinking now is it could be a layshaft pin that holds the plate in position where the springs push against. With this pin out the plate has moved back slightly, enough to pull one of the springs in and chew it up.
I suppose there is only one way to find out.

b_caswell
21-04-2017, 10:00 AM
There isnt any type of pin to locate the thrust washer that the springs load against.

The thrust washer has a bent tag that sits in a groove in the casing, it can only move as far as any wear on the rear thrust washer. The only way the spring could have got into the bottom of the box is that it fell through the bolt hole last time the bell housing was taken off.

I think you really do need to investigate further.

meverett
21-04-2017, 03:34 PM
Day off work today and done my chores so get on with the gearbox. Investigation over. Gearbox fully stripped down with all the parts on the bench. I had 24 needle bearings in one side and 23 in the other side of the layshaft.
Next problem I have is the reverse gears are a bit chewed up, anyone know where I can get replacements?

8410
8411
8412

meverett
21-04-2017, 06:26 PM
Looks like I am missing another 2 needle rollers for the layshaft, I got 24 for each side but think there should be 25 each side.
Where did these go, nothing else fell out of the casing.
I think this gearbox has been apart before as silicone was used on top of the old gaskets and of coarse the needle rollers in the bottom of the casing.

b_caswell
21-04-2017, 08:58 PM
Yes the lay gear should have 25 needle rollers each end not sure the Marina single rail box internals are identical to a later Spitfire single rail box or not. TD Fitchetts do most spares for the Triumphs but you will need to count the teeth on the gears. Stripping the mainshaft make sure you note which order and which way round the hubs go.

The front circlip on the mainshaft is a challenge and you must use a new replacement clip.

Unless the old needle rollers broke up and came out in the oil as sludge I think you are right and someone has been there before you.

What was the cage roller on the nose of the mainshaft like? worth replacing while its apart.

meverett
21-04-2017, 09:18 PM
Thanks Ben, I am considering a rebuild kit on eBay at £90. Includes all the bearings, gaskets, oil seals, springs and new layshaft.
Will still need the reverse gears though, is the reverse gear a known common problem or is it just mine.

b_caswell
21-04-2017, 09:30 PM
Probably the same thing don't know the company.... eBay item110998945450

My sons Triumph box had the same problem but we got away with just replacing the idler. Not sure why this happens except for trying to engage reverse too soon.

meverett
21-04-2017, 10:09 PM
Same item I am looking at other than I got the ital gearbox and viewing the ital kit, presume they are the same anyway.
The cage roller looks in good condition with no flat spots and smooth running but the kit has one of those as well.
The wear on the reverse gear and idler is in one place and not on all teeth so probably someone forcing into reverse before coming to a stand still.

milliemarlin
22-04-2017, 07:26 AM
Gears are usually case hardened; adding carbon into the surface layer while retaining a tougher core. I wonder if the reverse gears are not hardened. They are unlikely to wear out.
Paul

meverett
22-04-2017, 07:53 AM
Thanks Paul, do you think my reverse gear and idler have a few more miles left in them? The wear is only on a few teeth and only on the edges so teeth are still there. Cheers,

b_caswell
22-04-2017, 08:44 PM
The problem that the wear will cause is the gear to possibly throw out under load.

The only difference in the Spitfire and smaller Dolomite's single rail boxes is they have a shorter input/first motion shaft than the Ital/marina. Possibly different clutch spines.

droverpete
22-04-2017, 11:11 PM
Spitfire - Dolomite - Marina. Most of the internals are interchangeable. I used the Dolomite main shaft in the Marina box to allow its overdrive to fit on the back. Seem to remember making one good box out of three. Still got a box of bits somewhere, if there are any reverse gears there you're welcome to them.
PeterH

meverett
23-04-2017, 12:33 AM
Thanks for the replies guys, I have got a lead on 3 used marina gearboxes in my local area that could be potential for spares so I will check them out and follow up on this (take the top off each to check the teeth) May be a few spares for someone else when needed.

milliemarlin
23-04-2017, 08:10 AM
Thanks Paul, do you think my reverse gear and idler have a few more miles left in them? The wear is only on a few teeth and only on the edges so teeth are still there. Cheers,
Thatís the million dollar question. I canít possibly say from just looking at the photo. As said it looks as though someone has tried to ram it into reverse while travelling forward. Could reverse be confused with 5th in a momentary lapse of reason?

Looking at the photo the wear seems to indicate that the damaged parts of the teeth are not in contact when the reverse is fully engaged so it would probably outlast the car. But if it doesnít it is quite a faff to replace and it could damage the rest of the gearbox. It also looks as though it could impede engagement.

As a cautious chap I would tend to replace it and set my mind at rest.
Paul

b_caswell
23-04-2017, 08:30 PM
Note the 1300 box has a different size clutch splines to the 1800 box on the input shaft.

meverett
30-04-2017, 07:15 PM
Been pottering around in the garage and got my brake and clutch mounted in the bulkhead.
Made an aluminium reinforcing bracket. Will add some angle aluminium inside the bulkhead when I acquire some.
Also rubbed down and sprayed my standard shocks. Added the adjustable tie rods the other day.

8473

8474

meverett
07-05-2017, 07:19 PM
With a donor gearbox purchased for a bargain £10 from eBay and a trip to Exeter to collect and I have got the gearbox rebuilt.
Swapped the reverse gear, idler and laygear, new seals and gaskets and not forgetting the copper washer in the bell housing. Bit of paint and should be good to go. Selects gears nicely so must have gone back together correctly.

8550

dcunn
08-05-2017, 08:57 AM
Good job with the box - the rest of the car ain't so bad either !

meverett
08-05-2017, 04:24 PM
Thanks DC. Yours will be back on the road before mine.

meverett
12-05-2017, 10:06 AM
Re: Marina / Ital gearbox parts.
Ok, now I have rebuilt this gearbox ready for fitting I thought it would be a good idea to fill up with ep90 oil and spin it over with the drill on the first motion shaft.
It was making a bit of noise in first gear (ticking) when the teeth are engaging. I have lifted the lid to inspect and tied it down to the reverse idler that seems to be slightly engaged when in first gear. All the other gears are quiet.
I have used the 17 teeth idler, 29 teeth hub on the 13 teeth laygear from the donor gearbox and all the other gears are the same between both boxes. The donor gears looked in good condition with no major wear.
Is this common on these gearboxes?


https://youtu.be/1YKLiNXjFNc

greyV8pete
12-05-2017, 02:52 PM
Is the selector fork / detent in the correct position? From hazy memory I had a gearbox years ago (maybe TR3A?) and there was a spacer tube on the bottom gear selector shaft to prevent over travel of the selector fork. Peter.

b_caswell
12-05-2017, 04:01 PM
Ive picked some brains on the TSSC forum and their opinion is that its a common problem even with recon boxes.
Caused by a combination of wear in the operating lever and idler.
I am not sure how much of the box needs to be dismantled again to get the reverse gear operating lever out of the casing. But the suggestion is note which way it works then put it in the vice and gently bend the bottom of the arm backwards. Just a little at a time until it clears the mainshaft gear.
Hope this helps and I will report back to the Triumph boys.
Ben

meverett
12-05-2017, 05:03 PM
Ok thanks, I have just stripped it back down (I'm getting good at that) and compare the selector fork and other bits with the donor gearbox parts. Will report back.

meverett
12-05-2017, 08:34 PM
Thanks for the replies Ben and Peter.
The reverse selector fork was to blame. I tried like Ben said and straighten it slightly at the bottom end. I think I did by about 1mm and here is the box back together again. Very slight noise but I think most of that is slapping oil. To get the selector fork out it was bell housing off, rear extension off and remove the idler shaft. Please also thank the Triumph boys for their help.


https://youtu.be/xVAe6u3fXhg

meverett
20-05-2017, 05:39 PM
stripped the old paint off the fuel tank today.
Before.

8599

After, just need to paint.

8600

On to the little 1300 engine, was going to just replace gaskets and seals but one thing led to another and I got carried away to a strip down.

8601

8602

dcunn
20-05-2017, 08:34 PM
Wot, no rust on the tank, you lucky guy

Will you get away with new shells in the engine ?

meverett
20-05-2017, 10:12 PM
The tank had a little surface rust but not much and it cleaned up a treat, just needs paint now. I don't think I will get away with bringing that indoors for the paint to harden though, may try my luck.
Hopefully new shells, gaskets and seals and engine back together. I think the shells are standard size as I'm sure the crank hasn't been reground as the dimensions are 2.000".
Need to give it all a good clean as there is rust residue in the water ways on the block, I have got a big container so going to try electrolysis to remove, I tried it to remove some rust from some other components and worked quite well.

meverett
23-05-2017, 09:01 PM
After the engine strip down I plan to replace the crank and big end shell bearings and on closer inspection the cam bearings are scuffed up so I have removed them and ordered new. I have been reading up on the installation for these and it is critical that they are pressed or knocked in with a special cam bearing tool. I can't find one for sale in the uk and ones from USA are stupid money. Has anyone made a diy fitting tool or would it be best to take the block and new shells to an engineering workshop to fit.

meverett
03-06-2017, 12:21 PM
Still need to fit the new cam bearings in the A series.
Fitting tools seem to be too expensive so is anyone has made up a home made fitting tool I would appreciate a picture or two.

meverett
19-06-2017, 09:13 PM
Being a life long fan (almost) of the Simpsons the kids bought me some Duff beer so thought I had better drink at least one as I had a plan for the can.

8790

milliemarlin
20-06-2017, 09:30 AM
Hah! Are you going to fit a donut holder?
Cheers, Homer

meverett
25-06-2017, 03:41 PM
After a bit of trial and error on the lathe I have made my own tool and installed the cam shell bearings.

8820

Installed the cam followers and very carefully inserted the cam.

8821

Need to order the big end and crank shells now.

wiggiesworld
26-06-2017, 12:40 PM
Being a life long fan (almost) of the Simpsons the kids bought me some Duff beer so thought I had better drink at least one as I had a plan for the can.

8790

Interesting, have previously seen similar done in a TVR engine bay with a Red Bull can, don't know if it made the car any faster or gave it wings mind........

meverett
24-08-2017, 07:25 PM
Engine has had a full strip down and bores honed with new pistons, all new shell bearings, gaskets and seals.
New oil pump and water pump. It has taken a while.

9024

9025

9026

jon_wilkinson
25-08-2017, 07:40 AM
My, that looks good. I'm a sucker for a nice clean engine me.

HairyDave
25-08-2017, 12:50 PM
Me too! I think I will print that and paste it in my engine room so that I can see a nice clean engine when I open the bonnet. Respect.

meverett
25-08-2017, 03:38 PM
Ha. Knowing what A series engines are like it won't be like that for long.

h_m_cumming
25-08-2017, 05:31 PM
Sadly too true. This was my 1800 before it went in and then my Fiat. don't stay like that long.:(

meverett
10-09-2017, 06:55 PM
Other than playing around with my gearbox I have fitted the windscreen. Trying to keep it neat and tidy without sealant smeared around the edges I used the masking tape. Fitted the screen using cardboard spacers then smeared the sealant in and around then removed the tape. Pleased with the results.

9082
9083
9084
9085

meverett
24-10-2017, 12:17 PM
A year in, engine and gearbox gone back in. After a month or so of trial and error with the gear selector extension and thanks to Adrian aka Listerjp2 for his donation of a replacement gearbox extension have returned my gearbox back to original and opt for the exposed above tunnel extension.

9257

9258

And exhaust back on.

9259

This afternoon I will concentrate on fabricating the gear selector extension.

9260

listerjp2
24-10-2017, 12:40 PM
Looking good.

Can't wait to see the gear lever extention.

Regards

Adrian

meverett
26-10-2017, 08:20 PM
To keep my build diary up to date I have finished the gear selector extension.
This is my interpretation for a selector extension.
Started of with a few bits and pieces.

9311

9312

Dusted off the welder and ended up with this.

9313

Turned down some nylon bar then press fitted and added a 10mm sleeve to give me an internal diameter of 8mm.

9314

9315

And ended up with this, yet to finish off and fit. I have the Triumph spitfire gearbox extension and as we now know the locating pin is on the other side to the Marina one and I ended up welding the bracket on the wrong way around (Double Doh!) so made another bracket ready to replace the ballsíd up one. Yet to find some angle to mount the rose joint inside the tunnel and extend the gear lever and fit the knob (no not me) then some paint and fit.

9316

All painted and bolted together.

9317

Just put in place to check and works.

9320

meverett
29-10-2017, 05:11 PM
After adding the gear change extension I had to move the hand brake back. All installed and working. Cut a new piece of aluminium for top of the tunnel but need to source a bit more to finish off around the gear lever and I may replace the old rubber handbrake gaiter.

9331

listerjp2
29-10-2017, 05:59 PM
That's looking good.

Keep up the good work.

By the way I like the steering wheel.

Adrian

leadfoot
29-10-2017, 06:20 PM
Enjoying the build thread. Quality work.

meverett
29-10-2017, 07:14 PM
Thanks Adrian and leadfoot. I was lucky as the steering wheel was on the car when I bought it. I will have to match the color for the dash when I get to it. These relatively small jobs seem to take an age to do, all afternoon and half the evening with the hand brake and shortening the cable, still enjoying it though, the car may not get so much attention when winter sets in.

meverett
19-11-2017, 05:46 PM
Working on the dash now so I will be able to sort the dreaded wiring.
After a few CAD (cardboard) templates and then cutout with marine ply and fitted the clocks, I have to replace the small black bezels with chrome.

9392

Thinking about mounting to the scuttle I have cut out and extra piece of ply and glassed that in to the underside of the scuttle, the dashboard will screw to this from inside. I had to set this a bit further back to give me space to use the indicator/horn lever. Just got to tidy it up.

9393

9394

My old dash had a mixture of different lights and switches so I am looking out for some new. Came across these lights on eBay but a bit expensive and wonít need all of them, also going to go for chrome toggle switches then work out where to fit them in the dash.

9395

jon_wilkinson
20-11-2017, 08:11 AM
If you've not already committed on eBay you can buy those lights individually from Car Builder Solutions: https://www.carbuildersolutions.com/uk/warning-lights-small-chrome-bezel#/noFilterApplied

meverett
20-11-2017, 09:15 AM
Great thanks Jon, the pack on eBay is £69 but sure iíd seen them elsewhere a lot cheaper.
Just got to work out which ones I will need when I lay out my loom and will be ordering.
Thanks again, Martin.

meverett
27-11-2017, 07:19 PM
I have been thinking about ignition key. I couldnít use the standard one on the steering column but can use it on a bracket.
Time to sort through some scrap metal. I had a spare top column so used a mounting bracket from that and cut the end off to weld to a bracket. Welding not great but got penetration then painted up.

9418

9414

And fitted.

9415

Next use my C(ardboard)AD template to mark the hole and drill my ply dashboard.

9416

9417

Only downside is no steering lock. Next is to sort my dash warning lights and switches then if I have space may go for an engine start button.

meverett
18-05-2018, 09:22 PM
Finally received my new wiring loom from premier wiring, thanks Adrian for the link to them.

9949

A couple of jobs on my van and a pre MOT check on the wifeís Polo then can get on with wiring the Roadster.

meverett
22-05-2018, 07:42 PM
Progress with the wiring loom, everything now labeled up. Fuse box mounted under the dash but still accessible, routed the main loom under the dash, engine spur and front loom passed through the bulkhead.

9960

9961

9962

listerjp2
22-05-2018, 08:26 PM
The guys at premier wiring know what their doing . Just being nosey, how much?

Adrian

meverett
22-05-2018, 09:16 PM
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F 112260847550

Purchased this one and explained my setup to them so a Lucas loom was made up. A bit more than I was expecting. I will still have a bit of head scratching as I have to make all the connections yet although I am gradually working it out, my speedo and rev counter are electronic so will need calibration when finished.
I was looking at my old loom and had a couple of concerns with different wires spliced together and a couple of wires were clearly melted.

chris_cussen
23-05-2018, 09:32 AM
I used Premier wiring for my Serria based cabrio. Loom was just the job, though I did have a slight problem understanding the wiring around the headlamps as there were two variants and I didn't know which one I had. It was perfectly clear once I figured it out though.
Apart from that everyting seemed simple to connect up....

meverett
28-05-2018, 06:00 PM
While Iím waiting for a few bits and bobs for continuing my wiring I decided to make another attempt at my dash.

9967

9968

Just need to cut out for a glove box and make the back box then a good sand down and varnish.

meverett
28-05-2018, 07:00 PM
Cut the glovebox door, now got to make a back box.

9970

9971

listerjp2
28-05-2018, 07:06 PM
Hi

I got rid of the glove box in favour of putting the windscreen wiper behind the dash and hence freeing up space where it use to be to allow me to place my bike battery .

This in turn gave the passenger a lot more leg room as the battery box intruded into their space.

Never used the glove box on my previous Marlin Roadster .

Nice though.

Adrian

meverett
28-05-2018, 07:45 PM
My battery box is cut in to the centre of the bulkhead so itís not in the way, my wiper motor is on (or will be) the passenger side of the bulkhead, still plenty of leg room for passenger.
The dash looked like it needed the glove box as it was empty that side, mind you it will probably only be big enough for a pair of sun glasses. :-)

h_m_cumming
28-05-2018, 09:43 PM
Looks good Martin. Steeling myself to re-do mine and change the layout.

David
29-05-2018, 05:58 PM
Hi

I got rid of the glove box in favour of putting the windscreen wiper behind the dash and hence freeing up space where it use to be to allow me to place my bike battery .

This in turn gave the passenger a lot more leg room as the battery box intruded into their space.

Never used the glove box on my previous Marlin Roadster .

Nice though.

Adrian

My car was built in the 80ís and seems like it always had a glovebox door but no box behind until I made one a year or so back! You could get heaps in there though and everything was easy to reach between your legs.

meverett
29-05-2018, 09:55 PM
Ha! Mine will probably end up the same with no box. Be good access to the fuse box :-)

meverett
09-07-2018, 08:00 PM
Spent a bit of time on the Roadster today.
Rubbed down the scuttle back to gel coat and then primed.

10144

10145

10146

Looking at topcoat now. Thinking Tornado red.
I didnít realize that you canít get cellulose paint any more just 2k.
Not sprayed with 2k before, other than mixing 2:1 with activator plus 10% thinners is anything else different?
Iím not afraid to try it but would like to be prepared.
I will try a couple of small panels first before going onto the bigger stuff.

philcoyle
09-07-2018, 08:24 PM
If I were you I would have a read about 2pack paint and the damage it can do to your health. Plus once the colour or basecoat is on you then need 2-3 or more coats of clear coat or finish that will give you your shiny finish, that's after you have rubbed down the basecoat so that the shiny finish will be perfect.
The bit that can ruin your health is the fumes (isocyanate) you must wear a full hood spray mask with force feed air.
That's it roughly in a nutshell the rest is up to you, and reading about what risks you want to take.
Phil

meverett
09-07-2018, 08:35 PM
Thanks Phil. I have heard about the health risks of 2k and would take precautions.
I have an old Ďmarket stallí type frame with massive tarpaulin that I was going to use outside the garage for spraying. Also I have a respirator with cartridges for use with solvent fumes.
Reading further into the legislation you can still get cellulose paint but for use only with classic and vintage cars, perfect as the Marlin is registered as historic.

meverett
09-07-2018, 08:48 PM
Update on my dash. All wired in and everything doing what it should. Engine wired up but my battery is as good as dead. Day and night charging and just enough power to turn the engine over a few times to confirm the oil pressure light go out and check I have a spark.

10147

HairyDave
09-07-2018, 10:07 PM
For cellulose look at agricultural dealers they supply it for tractors.

milliemarlin
10-07-2018, 08:25 AM
Thanks Phil. I have heard about the health risks of 2k and would take precautions.
I have an old Ďmarket stallí type frame with massive tarpaulin that I was going to use outside the garage for spraying. Also I have a respirator with cartridges for use with solvent fumes.
Reading further into the legislation you can still get cellulose paint but for use only with classic and vintage cars, perfect as the Marlin is registered as historic.

As I understand it you need a ďspacemanĒ suit with an umbilical air supply a respirator is not going to hack it.

Iíve heard a few people talk of using boat paint on their cars and getting a good finish. Iíve even heard that a roller application is possible. Iíve not knowingly seen a car painted in this way so I canít say if itís any good or not.
Paul

Tony Stott
10-07-2018, 08:44 AM
I got an excellent finish on a classic dinghy using 2 pack pu and a roller(think it was supposedly a quality roller for varnish) - I realise a boat is a different beast but most of the surfaces are similar, just problematic with the louvres, but again a quality brush would probably achieve good results!

meverett
10-07-2018, 09:28 AM
Thanks for the replies. Think I will go for the cellulose, keep with what I know how to use.
Cheers,

meverett
14-07-2018, 09:21 AM
My mobile paint shop, not ideal but it keeps the garage clean.

10165

10166

10167

What colour am I painting it? I will update later.

b_caswell
14-07-2018, 10:52 AM
In this weather it will work as a low bake oven as well, just make sure you use a filter mask especially if
you are using self etch primers.

meverett
14-07-2018, 11:18 AM
Thanks Ben, I am using cellulose with a respirator suitable for solvent fumes.
Anyway gone for Tornado red, just the scuttle at the moment. Just got to leave it for a couple of days then flatten off then out with the T-cut and polisher.

10168

10169

meverett
19-07-2018, 08:10 PM
Spent a good couple of hours today sanding the nose back to gelcoat. Ground out a couple of crazing spots then filled and sanded back.
Just need to use some finer paper then ready for primer.

10186

10187

HairyDave
19-07-2018, 09:48 PM
Between the dumb iron tray and the nose used to collect water, so I drilled a hole on each side so now it drains. I dressed the holes with epoxy to seal them.

meverett
20-07-2018, 05:34 AM
Thanks Dave,
Was thinking that as there was a thread a while back about drainage holes.
I have also glassed in a plate where the bonnet fixes to it.

listerjp2
20-07-2018, 07:12 AM
Would be interested in where you will put the drain holes and whether you use round holes or a slit.

Regards

Adrian


Thanks Dave,
Was thinking that as there was a thread a while back about drainage holes.
I have also glassed in a plate where the bonnet fixes to it.

HairyDave
20-07-2018, 12:10 PM
Where the water collects I drilled a round hole at about 45deg from horizontal ( after checking that there was nothing behind) then with araldite on a stick sealed the edges. Now water doesn't collect there.

meverett
20-07-2018, 05:31 PM
Opted for a couple of slots, just got to seal the fibreglass edges.

10195

listerjp2
20-07-2018, 11:08 PM
Looks OK so will more than likely do the same


Opted for a couple of slots, just got to seal the fibreglass edges.

10195

meverett
12-08-2018, 04:49 PM
Spent a couple of afternoons last week stripping the paint off the side panels.

10247

10248

Nice weather this morning so decided to set up the paint tent and prime them and also the nose and the bonnet/windscreen trim.

10249

10250

Flatten them off in a couple of days ready for topcoat next weekend, weather permitting.

HairyDave
12-08-2018, 09:00 PM
Looking good!

listerjp2
13-08-2018, 07:05 AM
How did you cut the slots?


Looks OK so will more than likely do the same

meverett
13-08-2018, 07:57 AM
Hi Adrian, I very carefully drilled 2 holes for each then used a coping saw blade, finished off with a file.

meverett
18-08-2018, 03:30 PM
Top coat on the side panels, nose and windscreen trim. Just need to leave a few days then flatten off and polish.

10289

Had my orders to apply my painting skills to the lounge so that is it for a week or so but may sneak out to do the door pillars and the single skin below the doors.

h_m_cumming
18-08-2018, 05:50 PM
Looks good Martin. Did you only put a ball joint on the front end of the tie rod? Can't remember when I was looking at it.

meverett
18-08-2018, 05:57 PM
Hi Hugh, a rose joint as below.
You will have to pop around sometime.

10291

Before I fit all the bodywork I need to tighten every nut and bolt on the front now it has the engine and gearbox in.
Cheers, Martin.

listerjp2
18-08-2018, 08:37 PM
WOW, Brill



Top coat on the side panels, nose and windscreen trim. Just need to leave a few days then flatten off and polish.

10289

Had my orders to apply my painting skills to the lounge so that is it for a week or so but may sneak out to do the door pillars and the single skin below the doors.

listerjp2
27-08-2018, 04:02 PM
Hiya

Where did you get you rose jointed tie bar or did you make it?

Adrian



Hi Hugh, a rose joint as below.
You will have to pop around sometime.

10291

Before I fit all the bodywork I need to tighten every nut and bolt on the front now it has the engine and gearbox in.
Cheers, Martin.

meverett
27-08-2018, 05:40 PM
Hi Adrian, I have pmíd you. If you want some pics I will send by WhatsApp.
Cheers, Martin.

ggrum
27-08-2018, 06:07 PM
I did a similar mod to my Roadster several years ago. Can I suggest you put a thick repair washer or similar plate under the bolt that attaches the 'U' section bracket to the angled mount on the chassis. Although it never happened to me my concern is that if you whacked the front wheel on the kerb, say, you might pull and distort the bracket. The other argument of course is that, by bending, the bracket would absorb the shock and reduce the stress on the tie bar itself. Just a thought!

stevejgreen
28-08-2018, 05:54 AM
I did a similar mod to my Roadster several years ago. Can I suggest you put a thick repair washer or similar plate under the bolt that attaches the 'U' section bracket to the angled mount on the chassis. Although it never happened to me my concern is that if you whacked the front wheel on the kerb, say, you might pull and distort the bracket. The other argument of course is that, by bending, the bracket would absorb the shock and reduce the stress on the tie bar itself. Just a thought!

I have to agree the U bracket looks rather too much like a weak point to me. Presumably you fabricated from what looks to be less than 2mm rolled steel sheet, I would have preferred a short length of thick walled box section, at absolute least 3mm or the thickness of the original washer assembly, or original rod flange thickness, with one face of the box sawn off to produce your U shape

Equally your cross bolt through the rod end eye, should be HT steel, not standard?

The proof of the pudding will be in driving, itís not just the kerbs that will be the problem, but the potholes and drains especially on the near side.

meverett
28-08-2018, 06:27 AM
I see your point that it could be a weak point. They were already fabricated and on the car just been cleaned up.
Nothing is tightened up on the front end so will revisit these.
Cheers,

listerjp2
28-08-2018, 06:36 AM
Thank you


Hi Adrian, I have pmíd you. If you want some pics I will send by WhatsApp.
Cheers, Martin.

meverett
28-08-2018, 07:09 PM
A couple of hours this evening on the bonnet.

10327

10328

I keep telling myself this is progress, not looking forward to stripping the other side then out with DA.

Stripped the doors yesterday.

10329

dcunn
28-08-2018, 08:40 PM
Have to say I have found the stripping of bonnets very time consuming and tedious....you'll get there soon
Keep up the good work Rgds DC

meverett
02-09-2018, 04:07 PM
Bonnet stripped. Wasnít looking forward to the other side but as it was a nice day thought Iíd spend an hour on it. Turned out to about 3 hours.

10333

10334

Hopefully be nice next weekend so I can get it primed and painted along with the doors.

meverett
13-09-2018, 07:26 PM
Thatís the front end painted and just placed together. Not perfect but not bad for a home spray job.

10362

10363

Rear tub to start then decide whether to go with cycle wings or stick with the running boards.

dcunn
13-09-2018, 08:12 PM
Looking great - enjoy the tub

Rgds DC

listerjp2
13-09-2018, 08:13 PM
Looking good.

Keep up the good work.

Adrian

meverett
13-09-2018, 08:23 PM
Thanks guys, may run out of nice weather for any more spraying but you never know so may as well get the da on the tub.
I donít want to secure the panels yet as I still have brake pipes, fuel and cooling to fit.

h_m_cumming
14-09-2018, 06:30 AM
Nice job Martin. Like that colour.

meverett
14-09-2018, 05:45 PM
Nice job Martin. Like that colour.

Thanks Hugh

meverett
15-09-2018, 03:58 PM
DC, I now know what you meant by Ďenjoy the tubí :-)
I think the bonnet was easier.
I thought that the fuel filler was too low so glassed and filled it in, I will fit it a bit higher up when I finish removing all the old paint.

10375

10376

dcunn
15-09-2018, 04:26 PM
Indeed, it's bigger than you think when you first start on it...I needed several recharges for my elbow grease when doing Q67
Keep going, you'll beat it, and I think it's a good idea to lift the fuel filler position up. Rgds DC

meverett
15-09-2018, 05:24 PM
You had a different spare wheel mount than me. I have a fibre glass bowl that bolts down which I think is a water trap so want to look at alternatives.

listerjp2
15-09-2018, 06:03 PM
I too had the same problem and I had one made up by a member on this site.

He regularly reads this forum but I wouldn't like to offer his services without his say so.

Adrian


.
You had a different spare wheel mount than me. I have a fibre glass bowl that bolts down which I think is a water trap so want to look at alternatives.

meverett
15-09-2018, 06:15 PM
Hi Adrian, donít suppose you have a photo do you.
There was a metal one on eBay a while back but I missed the end of the auction, same guy that was selling the other body panels.
May make one myself just need to source some steel, better look in the skip at work again.

listerjp2
15-09-2018, 06:34 PM
I will take the spare off tomorrow and take some photos.

Regards

Adrian



Hi Adrian, donít suppose you have a photo do you.
There was a metal one on eBay a while back but I missed the end of the auction, same guy that was selling the other body panels.
May make one myself just need to source some steel, better look in the skip at work again.

meverett
15-09-2018, 06:37 PM
Great thanks,

dcunn
15-09-2018, 11:01 PM
Don't know whose pics these are, hope they help
I seem to remember a thread on here about this wheel carrier and I think it had some dimensions - worth a few minutes to look for it !
Or you could make educated guesses from these pics and my tub pic above

Tony Stott
16-09-2018, 06:22 AM
That looks similar to the mount on my berly, if I get time today i'll take the spare off , measure it and take a pic! - it may be later in the week though, a hectic period on other fronts dawns!

meverett
16-09-2018, 07:03 AM
Thanks for the pics. That looks the same as one that sold on eBay a couple of month ago.
I guess the dimensions will depend on the width of tyre. Matching up the studs will be a problems but they donít have to be Marina, I replaced the rear hub on my daughters Kia last month and knocked the studs out to keep, the good old theory of Ďthey may be handy one dayí may have paid off for a change.

listerjp2
16-09-2018, 07:47 AM
The only difference with mine is that I have a plate the goes inside the boot to spread the load.

Adrian



Don't know whose pics these are, hope they help
I seem to remember a thread on here about this wheel carrier and I think it had some dimensions - worth a few minutes to look for it !
Or you could make educated guesses from these pics and my tub pic above

davidmartin720
16-09-2018, 09:53 AM
On my Mk1 Roadster the spare wheel was fixed by 2 long bolts fixed to the tub. The advantage with this method of fixing against the solid wheel carrier is it will accomodate different tyre widths. My tub was reinforced by a large piece of 3/4 ply glassfibreed to the inside of the tub. There were wheelnuts which when tightened held the tyre firmly against the tub. The only downside to this was the tyre did leave a mark on the paintwork, still a bit of Tcut soon polished this out. For overkill I did make up a means of locking the spare wheel against theft and covered this with a wheel trim. I will try and draw the set up and put it on here later. David.

meverett
16-09-2018, 10:32 AM
This is what I have taken off the car. I think that it is a water trap and only the one hand tightened but to secure the wheel. I could add the 4 studs and do away with the centre bolt then add a drain hole.

10388

meverett
16-09-2018, 01:38 PM
Round 2 to me. Just another couple of hours to remove the rest.

10389

10390

I have also filled the rear wheel arch mounting holes as the arches looked too high. Also got to lower the running boards (if I use them) as the doors did catch on them when half open.

chris_cussen
16-09-2018, 03:56 PM
I solved the water trap problem on my cabrio by drilling a hole at the lowest point in the wheel well and inserting some brake pipe just into the hole with the other end coming out just at the bottom of the tub after a bit of bending to get a snug fit. I then bonded it to the tub using glassfibre mat.

meverett
16-09-2018, 04:44 PM
Next problem to resolve is fuel filler.
The original builder fitted this nice filler cap, it as 120mm diameter with a 51mm outlet.

10391


1st issue, there is nowhere on the rear tub to get a flush mounting for this size, have to look for a smaller fuel cap.
2nd issue, with the new smaller caps similar to this they all have the 51mm outlet but my escort tank has 45mm inlet. Is there an adapter kit available?
3rd issue, where do I route the breather? Looks like the original builder didnít bother routing one.
Cheers, Martin.

Tony Stott
16-09-2018, 06:01 PM
Merlinsport for the tube reducer perhaps. I replaced my filler tube several years ago as it had a slight leak. My tank is an Escort one, the breather was pushed up the side of the n/s spring/damper, not touching of course the moving bits, over the years it has worked well with no fuel fume ingress into the car.
Also, my spare is mounted on an opening boot lid, which is dished and has a reinforcing plate internally mounted, it is abour 6.5" square, cannot get at the actual external mount currently, the security lock on the\stud nut is seized, just given it the plus gas treatment, hopefully tomorrow!

meverett
17-09-2018, 06:21 PM
Thanks Tony, Merlinsport, Do they have a website? I googled them and all I get is Merlin sports cars.
Anyway a couple of hours after work, 3rd round to me and finished rubbing the tub back to gel coat.

10400

Just got to repair a bit of crazing and plan for the fuel filler. Ideas for the breather most welcome.

Tony Stott
17-09-2018, 06:42 PM
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk - I have a 2018 catalogue somewhere, my filing system is just a big black hole!!

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/samco-silicone-hoses-kits/samco-straight-reducer/manufacturer:samco/page:2

h_m_cumming
17-09-2018, 06:55 PM
Hi Martin,
On the filler on mine I welded a tube near the neck and ran the breather from the top of the tank to it. My cap is a lockable one and has a pressure relief system where it allows air in to replace fuel used but only allows air (or fuel) out above a certain pressure, I think about 2/3psi. This is a safeguard in the event of it going upside down. Been on the car since I built it, 29yrs , with no problems. As I've got an electric fuel pump I've also fitted an Escort fuel cut off inertia switch so that the pump doesn't keep running in the event of a shunt. Also serves as a theft deterrent as a good tap with a screwdriver activates it.

meverett
17-09-2018, 08:42 PM
www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk - I have a 2018 catalogue somewhere, my filing system is just a big black hole!!

https://www.merlinmotorsport.co.uk/s/samco-silicone-hoses-kits/samco-straight-reducer/manufacturer:samco/page:2
Great thanks Tony

meverett
17-09-2018, 08:57 PM
Thanks Hugh,
I have an old steel filler pipe as well but no cap that I havenít got a clue what it came off, I would be able to weld a breather pipe to that but not sure if I want an old type push and 1/4 turn cap on it. It is also the same diameter as the tank inlet.

meverett
25-09-2018, 07:12 PM
I think my other spare filler pipe was from an escort estate, probably the same car the tank came out of. The filler is the same 45mm diameter as the tank inlet so easy to add a fuel flexible pipe. CBS supply 500mm lengths so more than enough. I have a locking cap on the way that should fit the filler.
I have relocated the filler where I could get a flush fit further up the tub so shouldnít get any splash back at the pump.
Filled in the old hole with glass and after god knows how many times adding a fine layer of filler then rubbing back and a quick coat of primer I have got it so you canít see it, ready for a couple of coats of primer before top coat.

10423

meverett
14-10-2018, 07:53 PM
Rear tub finished and body panels in place.
Panels are not fixed yet as I have brakes, fuel and cooling to plumb in yet.
Pushed out of the garage for a bit of fresh air.

10452

10453

10454

Pleased with my spraying on all the panels except the bonnet, it has some fine scratches that wonít polish out, it may have to go back into the spray tent the next nice weekend.
I think I am decided on the original running boards rather than the cycle wings mainly because I have them and the brackets in the garage, just need a bit of repair and rubbing back to gel coat.

David
14-10-2018, 08:03 PM
Looking great, dashboard is excellent.

meverett
14-10-2018, 08:46 PM
Looking great, dashboard is excellent.
Thanks, my O level woodwork does come in handy sometimes. :-)

listerjp2
14-10-2018, 09:34 PM
Wow puts my one to shame. What a lovely finish. I am in awe.

Adrian



Rear tub finished and body panels in place.
Panels are not fixed yet as I have brakes, fuel and cooling to plumb in yet.
Pushed out of the garage for a bit of fresh air.

10452

10453

10454

Pleased with my spraying on all the panels except the bonnet, it has some fine scratches that wonít polish out, it may have to go back into the spray tent the next nice weekend.
I think I am decided on the original running boards rather than the cycle wings mainly because I have them and the brackets in the garage, just need a bit of repair and rubbing back to gel coat.

dcunn
14-10-2018, 10:08 PM
Superb job Martin
Rgds DC

meverett
15-10-2018, 05:40 AM
Thanks Adrian and DC.
Still a fair amount of work to do until she is on the road but itís getting there.
Cheers, Martin.

h_m_cumming
15-10-2018, 06:43 AM
Looks good Martin, must get myself over soon for a chat. Hugh.

meverett
15-10-2018, 07:17 AM
Looks good Martin, must get myself over soon for a chat. Hugh.

Thanks Hugh and yes either I will have to pop over or you are welcome to pop over to me.
Cheers,

dogoncrazy
15-10-2018, 09:30 AM
Nice job, what's that colour please?

meverett
15-10-2018, 10:15 AM
Nice job, what's that colour please?
Itís Tornado red. LY3D colours code.
Cheers,

HairyDave
15-10-2018, 11:02 AM
Very smart, envious! Personally I prefer running boards.

meverett
16-10-2018, 07:05 PM
Placed the running boards back on and think they will need a bit of fettling to fit properly.
On one side the fibreglass has bulged a bit out of shape which when fitted will force the edge slightly higher making the door scrape when 3/4 open. Still need to measure up and compare with the build manual.
Anyone know the measurement from the rear bottom corner of the door to the top of the running board? This will give me a starting point.

meverett
16-10-2018, 07:18 PM
The build manual says 185mm from the top of the running board to the centre of the leaf spring mount.
This will make them even higher and the door will barely open.
I think 160mm is about right to get the door to open 90degrees.

h_m_cumming
16-10-2018, 08:21 PM
This is my modified measurements Martin

meverett
16-10-2018, 08:36 PM
Thanks Hugh, I will check again but think 180mm to the centre of the leaf spring mount is too high on mine. My running boards were probably made in the Friday afternoon mounds or the curve has changed or warped slightly over the years.
When I got the car the doors didnít open fully but I dismissed this and put it down to the fitting but back then as I was just stripping it down.
I also want to fabricate some centre supports like you have.
I will take the paint off first so at least I will be working with clean panels.

h_m_cumming
17-10-2018, 07:27 AM
If it's only catching at fully open it will be the inbuilt warp in the N/S wing, which is why I put the support in, a) to pull it down b) to hold it there. Has also been handy as you can put your full weight on it without it sagging. Unfortunately, it will interfere with a silencer if you have one under the wing.

listerjp2
17-10-2018, 08:19 AM
Hiya

I spent ages trying to fit the wings with many pleas on this forum, all of which were gratefully received.

To put it bluntly, the only thing you have to be worried about is the suspension upright, as long as that doesn't dent the inner wing then your ok.

I ignored the drawing in the manual and did my own thing I. E. If it looks right then it is right.

I had very little stress and they look fine.

Like you, I felt it depended on who built them and when.

Good luck.

Adrian




Thanks Hugh, I will check again but think 180mm to the centre of the leaf spring mount is too high on mine. My running boards were probably made in the Friday afternoon mounds or the curve has changed or warped slightly over the years.
When I got the car the doors didnít open fully but I dismissed this and put it down to the fitting but back then as I was just stripping it down.
I also want to fabricate some centre supports like you have.
I will take the paint off first so at least I will be working with clean panels.

meverett
17-10-2018, 06:12 PM
If it's only catching at fully open it will be the inbuilt warp in the N/S wing, which is why I put the support in, a) to pull it down b) to hold it there. Has also been handy as you can put your full weight on it without it sagging. Unfortunately, it will interfere with a silencer if you have one under the wing.
You are right, both running boards are warped slightly through age and when mounted the outer edge is higher than the fixed edge. A pair of strengthening brackets will sort this. Like you said the side exhaust will be in the way but I think I will be able to fabricate something.

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David
17-10-2018, 07:41 PM
I had the doors hitting the wings on both the cars I've owned so fitted door straps to stop them opening too far.

Also on the car I built (PKK989M) I welded brackets under the wings to pull them down and fix to provide support for when the inevitable plonker decides to jump on them.

Like these, probably make your own but at <£40 a pair...

https://www.holden.co.uk/displayproduct.asp?pCode=097.799

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meverett
17-10-2018, 09:15 PM
Thanks for the link. I was also thinking about check straps mainly for security as I feel that the doors are a little too easy to remove.
First I will take all the old paint off including the inner wings, then fit them and fabricate some support brackets so the running boards will then be level across the width. Then I will have to wait for some fine weather again to get the paint tent out. The check straps will be included in the final finishing of the interior.
Cheers, Martin.

meverett
16-12-2018, 03:55 PM
Discussions on another thread inspired me to start on my hood.
Made the cardboard templates, just a tweak here or there.

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10587

I have ordered some thick black water resistant tent grade canvas, itís not uv stable but the car wonít be living out in all weather.
The plan is to cut the canvas over size then fit it in much the same way but inside out with bulldog clips on the outside to hold the seams together before getting the sewing machine out.

h_m_cumming
16-12-2018, 05:17 PM
Hi Martin,
admire your courage. Remember if you do it inside out it will change sides and if it's like mine nothing is symetrical so I'd do a lot of measurements each side and compare.
Hugh.

HairyDave
16-12-2018, 05:51 PM
Respect, I've made a few things in canvas but hand sewn. My Singer won't take the needle and thread for canvas. Good luck with it!

meverett
16-12-2018, 06:44 PM
Thanks Hugh, the template hood was not quite symetrical either, itís close but not exact.
I may tack it or use the sailmakers tape inside out then try correct way around before sewing.
When the three parts are sewn together and the rear window is sewn in I will do another trial fit before the final edging is sewn on.
I have use of a heavy duty machine so it should be ok.
Got to give it a go, donít know until you try. :-)

listerjp2
16-12-2018, 07:32 PM
Respect.

Adrian


Thanks Hugh, the template hood was not quite symetrical either, itís close but not exact.
I may tack it or use the sailmakers tape inside out then try correct way around before sewing.
When the three parts are sewn together and the rear window is sewn in I will do another trial fit before the final edging is sewn on.
I have use of a heavy duty machine so it should be ok.
Got to give it a go, donít know until you try. :-)

meverett
19-01-2019, 03:36 PM
Making my own hood is definitely a learning curve for me.
To start with I had a bit of a catastrophe with the old singer machine, needle, timing gear teeth, anyway back up and running again with help from google.
Nearly there with the hood, just got to fit the lift the dot poppers and sew in the zips.

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listerjp2
19-01-2019, 07:50 PM
Wow I am in awe.

You are making an excellent job of you car.

I feel very humble.

Carry on and I hope to see you at one of the meets.

Adrian

meverett
19-01-2019, 09:25 PM
Thanks Adrian,
Still got a lot to do yet.
Brakes, cooling, fuel, finish wiring, finish running boards and arches, fix all body work, check and torque all nuts and bolts and alloys to refurbish.
Hope to catch up one day.
Cheers, Martin.

angusgrooby
20-01-2019, 08:59 PM
Hats of to you for having a go at making the hood, I just would not know where to start.

meverett
20-01-2019, 09:23 PM
It is certainly a learning curve for me, from learning how to use the sewing machine to fixing it and the different types of thread and needle.
After that you just break it down in sections starting with the back part and rear screen to the middle then the larger part of the roof then trimming the edges. Although the roof is fairly small it does get a bit unwieldy feeding through the sewing machine when trimming the edges.
I have just started attempt 2, I’m hoping to get the seams to line up better with the frame.

meverett
07-02-2019, 10:01 PM
So 2nd attempt, that took a while to make. Not convinced the cant rail will hold.
I will probably remove from the rail again and clean off the contact adhesive and try to tension more to get a tighter fit.
Door screens done. Zip in nicely, just some poppers to fit.

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b_caswell
08-02-2019, 11:00 AM
Try making up a couple of wedges to fit between the top of the screen frame and the cantrail so that the cantrail tips forward a bit more.

meverett
08-02-2019, 12:03 PM
When I stuck it to the rail I had it propped in what I thought would be the fitted position but under tension it pulls down as in the picture. I need to separate it again and try to tension more and try to smooth it out. I will make up a couple of wedges to fix to the rail so it can’t dip like that. Otherwise I am quite pleased with the hood.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

meverett
08-02-2019, 08:29 PM
I know why it’s not tensioned properly.
I unstuck the cantrail and removed all the contact adhesive then retensioned it in the correct position then took some measurements.
There is more overhang on the drivers side to the passenger side so when I had glued it down central it twisted the canvas.
Corrective action, I have removed the side edging, I will trim the canvas on the drivers side to match the passenger then remake the zipped edging.

10668

Doh! Run out of canvas, better order some more. Report back in a week or so. Soon be spring and I can get on with more bodywork.

droverpete
08-02-2019, 09:51 PM
When I stuck it to the rail I had it propped in what I thought would be the fitted position but under tension it pulls down as in the picture. I need to separate it again and try to tension more and try to smooth it out. I will make up a couple of wedges to fix to the rail so it can’t dip like that. Otherwise I am quite pleased with the hood.
Any advice is greatly appreciated.

The traditional way of holding the rail in place was with a squash ball.

phild
16-02-2019, 08:37 AM
Martin I have still been following your progress since my impulse purchase of the GTV managed to get in the way of my marlin build. The GTV is on the road now but needs a small bit of body work and fettling plus a respray so is still going to be taking some of my time/money like most old cars, but I now should be able to start giving some time to the roadster soon, if I can remember where I am at. Your build diary is impressive and encouraging me to get restarted on the roadster again, I will be looking at yours and other build posts when I get stuck.
cheers

Phil

listerjp2
16-02-2019, 02:32 PM
How does that work?

Adrian



The traditional way of holding the rail in place was with a squash ball.

b_caswell
16-02-2019, 02:54 PM
You needed two soft squash balls and pushed one into each corner of the cantrail.

Just another thing you need balls for when driving a roadster!!

listerjp2
16-02-2019, 03:07 PM
Ahhhh lol


You needed two soft squash balls and pushed one into each corner of the cantrail.

Just another thing you need balls for when driving a roadster!!

meverett
16-02-2019, 07:12 PM
Martin I have still been following your progress since my impulse purchase of the GTV managed to get in the way of my marlin build. The GTV is on the road now but needs a small bit of body work and fettling plus a respray so is still going to be taking some of my time/money like most old cars, but I now should be able to start giving some time to the roadster soon, if I can remember where I am at. Your build diary is impressive and encouraging me to get restarted on the roadster again, I will be looking at yours and other build posts when I get stuck.
cheers

Phil
Thanks Phil,
I know how other things get in the way. Since the summer when I was doing the spraying I was getting it in the ear to do some decorating. All I have managed to do to the car since is the hood which is still not finished and yet again decorating got in the way.
Good luck with yours and keep us posted with progress.
Cheers, Martin.

meverett
16-02-2019, 07:14 PM
Just another thing you need balls for when driving a roadster!!
Ha like it :-)

meverett
10-04-2019, 04:48 PM
Due to work and life the work on my soft top hood has stalled for a while, ‚Äė‚Äėtis nearly completed but as it has been lovely weather and having a few days off work I decided to get the DA out again to do the other running board back to gel coat.
I have dry fitted them to the inner wings and on to the car and was thinking about bonding the running board to the inner wing then when set remove the bolts and fill the holes before prepping for paint. I have a tube of tiger seal that was purchased with this in mind. Anyone else done this?
Cheers, Martin.

10794

listerjp2
10-04-2019, 04:54 PM
Nah, I've gone for the full bling, paid enough for all the quality stainless steel bolts and wanted to show them off .

Adrian


Due to work and life the work on my soft top hood has stalled for a while, ‚Äė‚Äėtis nearly completed but as it has been lovely weather and having a few days off work I decided to get the DA out again to do the other running board back to gel coat.
I have dry fitted them to the inner wings and on to the car and was thinking about bonding the running board to the inner wing then when set remove the bolts and fill the holes before prepping for paint. I have a tube of tiger seal that was purchased with this in mind. Anyone else done this?
Cheers, Martin.

10794

meverett
10-04-2019, 05:24 PM
Thanks Adrian, I am hoping for a seamless look between the running board and inner wing. Still a lot left to do and way behind compared to your progress.

Gareth
10-04-2019, 07:15 PM
Thanks Adrian, I am hoping for a seamless look between the running board and inner wing. Still a lot left to do and way behind your progress.

I tend to agree with you Martin. My Roadster is finished like that and I think the lines are so much better.
Gareth.

meverett
10-04-2019, 07:40 PM
Thanks, I guess there is no wrong answer and everyone will have their own preferences, this is what makes each and every car unique. I have nothing against exposed stainless fixings but with mine the original bolts were not evenly spaced.
Before I stripped the car the wings were held together with bolts and the heads filled over to give the seamless look, unfortunately the filler was a thin layer and cracking which highlighted the fixings.

meverett
10-04-2019, 07:42 PM
I tend to agree with you Martin. My Roadster is finished like that and I think the lines are so much better.
Gareth.

That is a nice setting for a great photo.

listerjp2
10-04-2019, 09:41 PM
I'm with you, everyone to their own.

Still loads to do.

10796


That is a nice setting for a great photo.

listerjp2
10-04-2019, 09:47 PM
And arse end.

Been doing a bit of painting.

10797


I'm with you, everyone to their own.

Still loads to do.

10796

listerjp2
10-04-2019, 09:59 PM
She's come a long way

https://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=10798&stc=1


And arse end.

Been doing a bit of painting.

10797

Gareth
10-04-2019, 10:42 PM
It's at Llyn Brenig, North Wales. Part of the infamous 'Evo Triangle', (Google it).
Lovely roads and nice cafe and walks there.
Sadly, now all 50mph speed cameras for 20 odd miles, but still worth the drive.

meverett
11-04-2019, 08:28 AM
Looking great there Adrian. Nice finish on the paint.
What are you using for spraying?

listerjp2
11-04-2019, 05:23 PM
Now don't laugh to loud, Rustoleum Combicolor RAL 3000 rattle cans.

4 in total to get 3 coats on each panel.

£40 + £10 for pre-wipe and 2000 grit paper.

Oh, and A bottle of Captain Tooleys Crack Cure (already had that).

Waiting for it to harden then hit it with 2000 grit again and polish.

Adrian



Looking great there Adrian. Nice finish on the paint.
What are you using for spraying?

meverett
11-04-2019, 05:47 PM
Wow, you got a great finish for rattle cans. I’m using a 3hp 90litre air compressor and spraying in an old market stall tent outside the garage but with a cheap spray gun. I would like to upgrade it to a Devilbis gun but need to save the pocket money.
Roll on summer so I can finish the bodywork.

listerjp2
11-04-2019, 06:52 PM
Cheers.

Yours is looking good to.

The day will come when you won't be able to wipe the smile off your face .

Carry on the good work.

Adrian


Wow, you got a great finish for rattle cans. I’m using a 3hp 90litre air compressor and spraying in an old market stall tent outside the garage but with a cheap spray gun. I would like to upgrade it to a Devilbis gun but need to save the pocket money.
Roll on summer so I can finish the bodywork.

IDM
15-04-2019, 09:30 AM
Great Job , no small task is it ! Really need to get on with mine . Well done

meverett
16-04-2019, 08:18 PM
Thanks and no it is no small task, not for the faint hearted.
Just trying to do a bit at a time before I get it in the ear about decorating the kitchen, it is coming and i’m running out of excuses.

h_m_cumming
16-04-2019, 08:34 PM
This might be you,lol.10814

meverett
16-04-2019, 08:53 PM
Ha, I like it.

meverett
20-04-2019, 08:31 PM
Finally my running boards and rear wheel arches are ready for paint.
Lovely weather so will get the primer on tomorrow.

10824

listerjp2
21-04-2019, 07:10 AM
Looking good.

Great weekend for it.

Adrian

David
21-04-2019, 08:22 AM
1275 Marina based, my favourite. can't wait to see it finished :)

meverett
21-04-2019, 02:12 PM
Thanks and I also can’t wait to see it finished. :-)
Lovely weather so got the primer on, get it flattened off then all I need is another weekend like this and I can sort the topcoat. Gets bleddy hot in the paint tent.
Last to paint will be the headlight pods and the spare wheel carrier, nice small and easy bits then on to the brakes, fuel and cooling and all the other unfinished bits.

meverett
29-05-2019, 07:52 PM
Whilst having a bit of a tidy up in the garage I came across the radiator cowl that I took off the car nearly 3 years ago. It is stainless steel and after a bit of a clean up and slight modification to add the fan looks good.
It was made to house the classic Mini rad so I ordered a new aluminium rad.
My plan is to use the original engine cooling fan and also wire in the electric fan that is now fitted to the front of the cowl. The fan works in both directions so just need to make sure I wire it so it blows cool air through the rad rather than away from it. I can either wire it to a thermostatic switch or to a switch on the dash, thermo switch will probably be best.

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11014

h_m_cumming
30-05-2019, 06:01 AM
Are you mounting on the back or front of the rad. Martin? It's much better on the back as it impedes the natural air flow less.

milliemarlin
30-05-2019, 08:15 AM
I agree, mounting on the engine side is better. In addition it gets fewer insects stuck to it and makes cleaning the rad easier.
Paul

stevejgreen
30-05-2019, 09:23 AM
I don’t think it makes much difference, it will spin in the airflow anyway, and if needed it will turn on maybe a fraction earlier.

There is a debate though that curve bladed fans are more efficient spinning in the correct direction.

Two fans mounted in-line is likely to be a lot less efficient as the air flow from one is likely to cause the other to stall.

listerjp2
30-05-2019, 10:28 AM
Hiya

I have mine mounted on the outside pulling air in.

I have also kept the original fan as this allows for hot air to be pushed out via the shark gills.

Will add a picture in a moment.

Adrian


I agree, mounting on the engine side is better. In addition it gets fewer insects stuck to it and makes cleaning the rad easier.
Paul

listerjp2
30-05-2019, 10:36 AM
Note: I have retained the fan but have used the mgb one which has 7 fins

11015

Picture showing front mounted electric fan.

This worked well in Le Mans and has proved itself in heavy traffic on the M25

11016



Hiya

I have mine mounted on the outside pulling air in.

I have also kept the original fan as this allows for hot air to be pushed out via the shark gills.

Will add a picture in a moment.

Adrian

meverett
30-05-2019, 11:15 AM
I have the same Adrian, I am using the engine fan and mounted the electric fan on the outside to push air through as and when needed.

meverett
08-06-2019, 08:10 PM
Found a nice pair of Westfield seats on eBay that will go nice in the Roadster.

11051

meverett
08-06-2019, 09:21 PM
Thought I would get her out in the sun today to give the garage floor a bit of a clean.

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listerjp2
08-06-2019, 09:34 PM
Wow she looks wonderful.

Adrian

meverett
08-06-2019, 09:39 PM
Thanks Adrian, paint isn’t perfect and still needs a bit of work.
None of the body panels are actually fitted yet just sitting in place.
Cheers, Martin.

listerjp2
08-06-2019, 09:55 PM
You haven't seen mine in the cold daylight.

I'm just glad that I can drive her.

Carry on the good work and look forward to seeing you and the car in the very near future.

Adrian

h_m_cumming
09-06-2019, 07:18 AM
Well done Martin, looks really good. Must try and get over sometime, seems like ages.
If I can get all the concrete blocks out of my drive soon I might be able to get mine out of the garage.
Hugh

dcunn
09-06-2019, 08:29 AM
Great Job there

Rgds DC

meverett
09-06-2019, 06:08 PM
Thanks Hugh and Dave,
Hugh you are more than welcome to pop around, I will also try to pop out to see you.
I spent another hour or so flattening back the bonnet and out with the polisher. I was recommended Menzerna cutting compound so bought the 3 stage pack. Not used the ultra fine though. I am learning as I go and results below, happy with that.

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milliemarlin
10-06-2019, 08:02 AM
I’m not a big fan of two fans. The engine is designed to run at an optimum temperature. Most wear occurs during the warm up. In general use the forward movement of the car should be more than enough to cool the radiator. Marlins have well vented engine compartments. Essentially even very slow speeds should be enough to ensure the air touching the radiator is at ambient temperature. Even a 10-20mph breeze will keep things cool. The fan should only be needed to draw air through the radiator in stationary air. If you are having problems with cooling it is almost certainly fuel mixture or timing issues. The most common being a lean mixture.

IMHO the thermostatically operated electric fan would be best, ideally fitted to the rear of the radiator to shield from ill-fated insects. It also makes routine cleaning of the radiator easier. I originally fitted Millie’s fan in front of the radiator. So I have done the experiment and can confirm the result. The electric fan will not operate during the warm up period. The engine mounted fan will slow engine warm up and waste energy in normal operation.

Sorry to mention the fan again but to me it looks like a glaring slip-up on an otherwise outstanding rebuild.
Paul

PS: I expect to gain no fans from my first sentence.

meverett
10-06-2019, 09:27 AM
Thanks for your input Paul,
It turns out that I am just using the thermostic fan. I purchased the inline thermostatic switch that Hugh recommended and when plumbing in the classic Mini rad it became obvious that the engine fan would spin too close to the pipes so I have removed it.
Cheers, Martin.

boustrophedon
10-06-2019, 09:53 AM
Whilst I would agree with the comments about using an electric fan, I think the statement that the engine bay is "well ventilated" to be wrong.

Air can potentially get into the engine bay OK, but is stalled on the way out by the high pressure air trapped by the wings and forced under the car as it moves. The wings force air up into the engine bay creating high pressure behind the radiator. The only way out for the cooling air is through the tiny area of the bonnet louvres and back under the car against the air trapped by the wings. A blast of hot air comes up through the handbrake slot in mine. This I believe is the real reason for the poor cooling found in many Roadsters.

The engine driven fan does very little as it is unducted and too far from the radiator to do any good at all.

milliemarlin
12-06-2019, 08:09 AM
Whilst I would agree with the comments about using an electric fan, I think the statement that the engine bay is "well ventilated" to be wrong.

Air can potentially get into the engine bay OK, but is stalled on the way out by the high pressure air trapped by the wings and forced under the car as it moves. The wings force air up into the engine bay creating high pressure behind the radiator. The only way out for the cooling air is through the tiny area of the bonnet louvres and back under the car against the air trapped by the wings. A blast of hot air comes up through the handbrake slot in mine. This I believe is the real reason for the poor cooling found in many Roadsters.

The engine driven fan does very little as it is unducted and too far from the radiator to do any good at all.

I agree the aerodynamics of the Marlin leave a lot to be desired. Quite few members add vents to the top of the bonnet to improve flow through the engine compartment. When on the motorway home from one car show I discovered that the engine compartment is indeed at a higher pressure than the surrounding air when the bonnet popped up. Some clown must have inspected my engine compartment and not replaced the bonnet catches.

I have read that engineers spend more time getting airflow through the engine compartment than around the bodywork of production cars. Anyone interested in F1 will also recognise the importance of cooling airflow. I don’t suppose anyone has access to a wind tunnel it would be interesting to see the actual airflow over a marlin.

The fact remains that most Marlins, even those with V8s, are able to tow trailers and caravans uphill without overheating.

Perhaps ‚Äúadequately ventilated‚ÄĚ would have been more appropriate.
Paul

stevejgreen
12-06-2019, 09:21 AM
The fact remains that most Marlins, even those with V8s, are able to tow trailers and caravans uphill without overheating.
Paul

Except that numerous forum entries and Pitstop articles tell a long history of overheating. Recognised by Paul Moorehouse as well!

milliemarlin
12-06-2019, 05:07 PM
Except that numerous forum entries and Pitstop articles tell a long history of overheating. Recognised by Paul Moorehouse as well!

Perhaps ‚Äúmostly adequately ventilated‚ÄĚ would have been more appropriate.
Paul

meverett
12-06-2019, 07:00 PM
I wonder how all the 7’s cope with cooling.
On another note my seats turned up today, yay.

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listerjp2
12-06-2019, 07:02 PM
Pretty, pretty

Adrian

meverett
12-06-2019, 07:05 PM
Fairly old and will need trimming sometime in the future but they are comfy.