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View Full Version : New (old) Member. History of Marlin Roadster Q285 AVO.



marlinmick
01-05-2020, 11:40 PM
Hi I am a new/old member (Adrian Priest days) and I joined this Club in March. I built my Mk11 Roadster Chassis No. MRC 2546 (the MRC are my initials and I stamped them on the plate before having it registered so there recorded on the V5) between 1984 and 1986 getting it on the road in May 86. I did a completed dry build of the car to running condition then stripped it down again to paint all the individual panels on both sides. In brief I then used the car for several years covering about 10000 miles. Then from about 1992 it fell into disuse to work commitments and other interests. Them in 97 I refurbished the engine treating it to a re-bore new pistons, reconditioned the head etc. but returning it to the road revealed severe over heating problems obviously due to the tight engine and it became totally unusable with a very real fear of being scolded if any of the cooling components failed, the heater literally roasted your legs, so it was back off the road while I had a think. I returned it to the road again in 2004 for a short while but despite no end of trials trying to get it to run cool all attempts failed, it was running that hot I had to stall it to get it to get the engine to stop. Again life my busy got in the way working and doing several other sometimes domestic projects, renovate a 3 bedroom rental property (for my retirement pension) fitting 4 kitchens, 2 Bathrooms for family and block paving my rear garden then some proper interesting work on several motorcycle projects.
Fast forward to March 2020 and covid-19 lockdown - Marlin time - only this time no mucking about I'm going straight for a new high efficiency radiator and several other mods and a complete refurbishment of the car including a full repaint and retrim of the interior. So at this moment I have removed all the body panels and chiselled out the old windscreen, boy did that Sikaflex stick. Rebuilt and painted the front and rear suspension, new bearings and seal in the rear axle. I have welded up frame to support the brake servo carrier due to a cracked bulkhead and I've modified the clutch slave cylinder so that it can be removed when the bulkhead is in place. I'm looking into moving the steering rack rearwards to get a decent radiator in, I've cut the rack mounts off above the angle iron cross brace and welded them to sole plates to fix them by either welding or drilling and bolting once I have the radiator in position. That's the position at the moment and when I can work out how to post pictures I will put some on of my progress.
Stay safe and take care All. Mick Clamp.

listerjp2
01-05-2020, 11:50 PM
That's a great story keep up the work and keep us informed.

Adrian

lizbillings
02-05-2020, 06:25 AM
Welcome back

dcunn
02-05-2020, 07:28 AM
Welcome back from me too Mick

Here's your car from "back in the day"

Look forward to the rebuild pics, if I can help with them please get in touch

Dave Cunnington

scott h
02-05-2020, 10:07 AM
Welcome back to the club. You sound like an experienced builder so I don't want to teach an old dog new tricks, but I am concerned about you moving the steering rack mounts. While I have no hands on experience of the Roadster, the position of the steering rack will be precisely calculated and changing it will have an effect on the steering geometry, and could be dangerous without careful consideration.

marlinmick
02-05-2020, 01:52 PM
Hi Scott, thank you for your comments and yes your absolutly right about any affects on steering geometry. I've read all sorts of documents, watched stuff on youtube etc and most evidence seems very ambiguous to say the least. The Akerman principle from my understanding looks to be measured and governed by a line taken through the king pin swivel points along the line of a triangle taken from the centre line of the rear axle and through the steering arm track rod end, but yes I could have misunderstood/interpreted it wrong! However nothing proves a point better than actual physical trials and experiments. so what I did to convince myself that it should repeat should alright was to set up some string lines, paper charts. and a protractor to measure the wheel angles on both wheels from lock to lock with the rack in various forward/aft positions and apart from the toe in/toe out corrections the wheel angles remained the same throughout the trials or were literally immeasurable from the techniques that I was using. But from what has been previously stated and "I don't want to open a can of worms on the Akerman principle" I could be completely wrong and I've not considered the effects of bump steer or self centring yet, but on the Marlin set up I can't see that the position of the rack rearwards (40mm Max) makes any difference. Depending on the final fit of the new radiator when I get it I might end up putting the rack back in its original place again yet and I will only move it if its safe. As I am a practical mechanical engineer (retired) I would really appreciate any input/advice from any technical engineers or fellow members. I do not drive it like a race car or performance car to me its my affordable sedate 1950 MG TF.
I originally brought my Marlin because I liked the looks and quality of the kit, performance didn't matter to me, I remember being taken around Mallory Park on a track day by Paul Morehouse and I remember a comment from him saying whilst flying round one corner "I wish these bloody Cobra's wouldn't keep getting in the way , his Marlin was like it was on rails, and it S--t me up - honestly! Bye for now. Mick.

marlinmick
02-05-2020, 01:56 PM
Thank you thats amazing were did that picture come from?

dcunn
02-05-2020, 03:18 PM
It's in the archive which I run for the Club, probably you sent it to Marlin and we have all their old customer files

……..email me personally (details in Pitstop magazine) and I can send you all
the archive pics I have of the car - there are six from 1989 to 1998, and a
higher resolution copy of this one

Rgds Dave Cunnington

dogoncrazy
02-05-2020, 05:58 PM
It was a ride in Mick's Roadster that got me into Marlin ownership back in '91 and someone who has been a good friend since. Oh. and he forgot to mention the NCF Diamond he also built amongst his various projects!

marlinmick
03-05-2020, 10:31 AM
Thank you Alan I completely forgot that one. It was you visiting me with your then current Roadster in February that inspired me to finally get my finger out and get mine back on the road this year though I didn't plan to be doing a full refurbishment on but it will be well worth it. I can't believe how my standards and abilities have changed over the last 35 years either because as I stripping it down I soon found areas that I definitely would not put up with today, like the rats nest of wiring under the dash "that would do for now" never got sorted and tidied up, if it was somebody else's car I would be thinking what bodge merchant put this together, but the Marlin design puts up with it though, I think that at the time I was a young thirtyish youth anxious to get the car on the road after all the hours and frustrations spent building it.

dcunn
04-05-2020, 10:56 AM
Hi Mick, did you get the email and photos from me - I don't know if the address I used is still your current one ?

Rgds DC

andyf
04-05-2020, 07:42 PM
Like Scott I'd be very careful moving the rack. Your right about the Ackerman angle. What I'd be worried about would be introducing bump steer.

andyf
04-05-2020, 09:59 PM
I'm also in the middle of fitting a 4 row civic rad in my mk2 Roadster and I'm pretty sure I will not have to move the rack back. I'll post some pictures as soon as I have the mounts in. This should be by the weekend.

marlinmick
06-05-2020, 07:41 PM
Thank you I would be very interested to see how it fits in. I can't decide which is the most favourable route, have my Viva rad uprated and them all the mounting and pipes fit or go with the civic rad and have to manufacture mounts and source pipes. Reading the forum posts I will definitly be installing ducting inside the nosecone to derect the airflow through the core, again what is the nost effective fan mounted to the front or behind the rad. I have a SEAT Alhambra that is my daily drive and that has the fans behind the rad with a remote expansion bottle with filler cap, the rad cap is on top of the radiator on the Marlin with no expansion bottle.

Mike
06-05-2020, 08:31 PM
It was a ride in Mick's Roadster that got me into Marlin ownership back in '91 and someone who has been a good friend since. Oh. and he forgot to mention the NCF Diamond he also built amongst his various projects!

Similar for me - I saw Mick's Roadster at several shows and loved it - I even had a photo of it which I got a magnifying glass out try to see what your make your wheels were (Carmonia - made by the now defunct Two Gates Wheels in Telford - I was lucky to get one of their last sets). And the radiator grill required 3 Rover SD1 radiator grills all cut and glued together.

And my favourite part of all was your fuel filler cap - I never did work out where you got that from?!
(I still have a couple of photos of your car at Stoneleigh from around that time!)

Really pleased you are restoring your car back to its glory days in the late 80's and early 90's.

Regards and thanks for the inspiration

Mike Garner

jon_wilkinson
07-05-2020, 08:08 AM
Thank you I would be very interested to see how it fits in. I can't decide which is the most favourable route, have my Viva rad uprated and them all the mounting and pipes fit or go with the civic rad and have to manufacture mounts and source pipes. Reading the forum posts I will definitly be installing ducting inside the nosecone to derect the airflow through the core, again what is the nost effective fan mounted to the front or behind the rad. I have a SEAT Alhambra that is my daily drive and that has the fans behind the rad with a remote expansion bottle with filler cap, the rad cap is on top of the radiator on the Marlin with no expansion bottle.

I found that most of the time even the standard Viva is fine. It was only when I was in a traffic jam or slow moving stop start traffic that it was a problem, most likely because the engine fan was too far from the rad to be any use. Since I uprated the rad and fitted an electric fan I haven't had any issues.

I didn't want the faff of fabricating mounts and rerouting pipes, although I will admit that those Civic rads look good.

My research suggests that the most effective fan position is behind the rad but there wasn't the room so mine is in front. Seems to work fine and I've read that some manufacturers use the same configuration so I'm not concerned.

andyf
07-05-2020, 08:54 AM
Thank you I would be very interested to see how it fits in. I can't decide which is the most favourable route, have my Viva rad uprated and them all the mounting and pipes fit or go with the civic rad and have to manufacture mounts and source pipes. Reading the forum posts I will definitly be installing ducting inside the nosecone to derect the airflow through the core, again what is the nost effective fan mounted to the front or behind the rad. I have a SEAT Alhambra that is my daily drive and that has the fans behind the rad with a remote expansion bottle with filler cap, the rad cap is on top of the radiator on the Marlin with no expansion bottle.

With hindsight I would have the Viva rad recored as the pipework is already worked out and the mounts. By comparison fitting a Civic rad is major surgery! As for the fan the modern pusher fans work sell in front of the rad. I am still considering how to add an expansion bottle.

stevejgreen
07-05-2020, 09:41 AM
With hindsight I would have the Viva rad recored as the pipework is already worked out and the mounts. By comparison fitting a Civic rad is major surgery! As for the fan the modern pusher fans work sell in front of the rad. I am still considering how to add an expansion bottle.

When I had my Viva radiator recored I took the opportunity to have the correct neck to fit the correct double sealed cap.
I also had a drain plug fitted so I could drain the system in a controlled manner.
Finally I has a boss brazed on, ready for a temperature sender.
All easy to do whilst the rad was out of the car.

andyf
11-05-2020, 02:58 PM
This is as far as I have got at the moment. The top mount is too flexible and catches the bonnet so needs adjustment but physically it is in and fits.

11594

marlinmick
14-05-2020, 09:50 AM
Hi All. Now that the lockdown restrictions have been eased with regards to travel I can now take my Viva Rad to have it re-cored I think that for me this is the easiest way forward. I collected my new windscreen yesterday fron Alvaston Glass in Derby. it's slightly thicker than the 35year old Marlin supplied glass that I took out and it has a lovely polished edge all round. I have now got to work out a better way of holding it in the Sikaflex holds it in alright but I dont want to have to chop it out again with a chiesel againn if I have to remove it anytime. I'm looking at a Square U Channel rubber seat to secure it in position with justa bead of sealer all around the edge of the windscreen to weatherproof it.
I am in the long process of preparing all the panels for repainting addressing the knocks, bumps and scratches it has gained whilst no being used. I must have been in a rush when I painted it the first time has some very gentle rubbing with 600 wet and dry is already revealing the primer. This time its having 3 colour coats with some clear coats on top. I'm using single pack QD Enamel sprayed, I had a little dabble at coach painting with a brush and with time and care you can get a really smooth finish with barely any brush marks with lots of flatting back etc but it is very time consuming and probably quite difficult in places on the Marlin (bonnet louvres/rivets etc).
During the strip down I discovered the remote gearchange that I fabricated for the Marina gearbox (I'd forgot about, its that long since I drove it) I have tried on several to import some pictures of my car but all I do is loose all my text and then my patience! I get there one day.
Mick.

andyf
14-05-2020, 10:42 AM
I think that's a wise decision :)

wiggiesworld
14-05-2020, 12:56 PM
The biggest beef I have with my Cabrio is just how close the filler cap is to the underneath of the grill surround, very difficult to remove it and replace. One of my future projects will be to have a remote filler and expansion tank like on all modern cars. On your car at least you look to have a reasonable amount of clearance so I expect your knuckles will be in a better state than mine.......

stevejgreen
14-05-2020, 01:32 PM
The biggest beef I have with my Cabrio is just how close the filler cap is to the underneath of the grill surround, very difficult to remove it and replace. One of my future projects will be to have a remote filler and expansion tank like on all modern cars. On your car at least you look to have a reasonable amount of clearance so I expect your knuckles will be in a better state than mine.......
I would agree with a roadster, not so much for protecting your knuckles but more to ensure you have a full capacity of coolant, with no airlocks.
if I was to start again a custom alloy rad would be my first choice. The viva rad was always undersized if operating without a thermostatic fan.

agent leman
14-05-2020, 01:33 PM
I too looked into using "U" section channel for the windscreen. I found this: https://sealsdirect.co.uk/shopping.asp?intDepartmentId=4#22 item code US162. I got a sample and it looks promising. Have you got any further? This all took place before I realised that I needed to do rather more than just a "freshen-up" to the roadster. After some fabrication and welding I will soon be sending the chassis off for sandblasting ...I don't think that I will be reporting back on the windscreen for a little while!

marlinmick
15-05-2020, 09:46 AM
Hi All, thank you all for your input to my original post I appreciate all your views and information and with the help of several members I'm gradually finding my way around this site and thanks to dcunn I have now worked out how to resize pictures and include them on my posts - hopefully! I'm gong to try and include some pictures on this post. So with that in mind when I stripped my Roadster down I revealed the Remote Gear Change that I made for the 1.8 Marina Gearbox during the original build. I remember a MK1 1500GT Cortina that I used to have in the mid seventies and I remember that design of its remote gearchange so I loosely based my design around the Ford design and mounted it as shown. I operation it is definitely not slick but it positive a bit heavy but it works. I might revisit it to see if I can improve it to make its operation lighter, it will never compete with a Ford box for slick changing but its suits my driving style anyway.


https://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11607&stc=1https://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11608&stc=1https://www.marlinownersclub.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=11609&stc=1

marlinmick
15-05-2020, 09:58 AM
Windscreen Mounting Rubber, I just looking into this at the moment, there's a good selection on that link you included I found another site that do similar moundings but basically the same. If and when I purchase a suitable moulding I'll included details here. Another option I looking at is put some domestic sponge window seal inti the windscreen groove to isolate the screen from the metal and vibration and then a bead of frame sealant all around the perimeter for weather proofing.
Just as an aside when do new members cease posting on this page and what is the process to move your post to and old members page?

stevejgreen
15-05-2020, 10:46 AM
Windscreen Mounting Rubber, I just looking into this at the moment, there's a good selection on that link you included I found another site that do similar moundings but basically the same. If and when I purchase a suitable moulding I'll included details here. Another option I looking at is put some domestic sponge window seal inti the windscreen groove to isolate the screen from the metal and vibration and then a bead of frame sealant all around the perimeter for weather proofing.
Just as an aside when do new members cease posting on this page and what is the process to move your post to and old members page?

You could wait for the MOC webmaster to appear.


But for specific issues like a windscreen surround, start a thread specific to that, and let the subject die on this thread.
It would be far more helpful for future readers if only one topic is addressed in each individual thread.

marlinmick
22-05-2020, 06:52 PM
Hi Mike, thank you for your comments about my car, yes I'm reburbing it back to its former glory only this time my intension is to do things better, the wiring behind the dash was a complete rats nest that I never did get back to doing it properly, likewise the paint I am now flatting it back in prep for respraying and with a couple of rubs I'm through to the original grey primer I must have been in a real rush to get it on the road. The filler cap was from an autojumble I think, I'm looking to get the mounting flange rechromed along with the headlamp bar when I can find a reliable plater. Yes they are Carmonas but for the life of me I can't remember where I brought them from, it might have been Foukes Bothers at Ibstock (gone now I think) I painted the spokes the same red as the body. I had the paint for the car given to me by a bloke who used to paint Fleet Truck's that's why its Post Office Red but the single coat made it look more pinker than PO Red. I'm painting it properly this time 3 colour coats and 2 coats of clear lacquer. Its still got the same grill as well.

Kind Regards
Mick.

marlinmick
23-05-2020, 07:17 AM
Hi All, Just a quick update as to where I am with the Marlin refurbishment.
All body panels removed and all dings and scrapes in the paintwork addressed particularly the running board panels mine had become quite rippled along the inner edge of both running boards. I think that I must have induced compression stresses into the panels during the original build of the car by forcing the boards inwards to meet the forward support bracket. Firstly I removed all the paint in the rippled area with a paint preparation wheel on a 4" grinder available from Screwfix
(these things brilliant though they are the work of the Devil boy are they aggressive) especially when they touch your skin, so used good gloves if you ever use them. I then used 240 grit ali-oxide paper on a rubber sanding block along the length of the panel to remove all the high points of the ripples until I broke through to the glass mat. Then I levelled the undulations with body filler and worked through the sand, fill, sand, fill process to attain a nice smooth surface ready for etch priming. All panels then wet flatted with 600 grit paper, again etched primed areas where it broke through to the gel coat or alloy. Cleaned all panels with a silicon/degreaser liquid and once dry used a tack rag before priming. I then sprayed them all with rattle can Upol grey primer and wet flatted again with 600 grit, getting around all the bonnet rivets and louvres was very time consuming. I intend to start applying the top coat as soon as these gusty wind conditions improved. Positioning all the panels to spray both sides is also quite challenging, I've made up some panel supports out of some multi grained plywood that I had lying around I'll post some pictures later, the rest I will suspend somehow from the garage roof supports.


As an aside with all the money that I have saved by staying in during the lockdown (not going out a couple of times a week for lunch etc) I am treating her to abit of bling, no not her, the Marlin she is having an all singing all dancing bespoke aluminium radiator made for her complete with a repositioned filler neck, electric fan sensor boss and a drain tap and will have the fan mountings built in as well. I post some pics when I have it.

listerjp2
23-05-2020, 08:01 AM
Sounds good can't wait for the pictures

Adrian

Mike
23-05-2020, 09:09 PM
Hi Mike, thank you for your comments about my car, yes I'm reburbing it back to its former glory only this time my intension is to do things better, the wiring behind the dash was a complete rats nest that I never did get back to doing it properly, likewise the paint I am now flatting it back in prep for respraying and with a couple of rubs I'm through to the original grey primer I must have been in a real rush to get it on the road. The filler cap was from an autojumble I think, I'm looking to get the mounting flange rechromed along with the headlamp bar when I can find a reliable plater. Yes they are Carmonas but for the life of me I can't remember where I brought them from, it might have been Foukes Bothers at Ibstock (gone now I think) I painted the spokes the same red as the body. I had the paint for the car given to me by a bloke who used to paint Fleet Truck's that's why its Post Office Red but the single coat made it look more pinker than PO Red. I'm painting it properly this time 3 colour coats and 2 coats of clear lacquer. Its still got the same grill as well.

Kind Regards
Mick.

Mick

I have sent you a PM

Regards
Mike

dogoncrazy
24-05-2020, 12:32 PM
Hi Mick
it would be great to see some photos especially since it's somewhat awkward for me to pop round at the moment. Sounds like you've really pushed on with the rebuild.
If you have any difficulty posting images DC contacted me saying he'd be more than happy to help.

marlinmick
31-05-2020, 08:15 PM
Q285 AVO Wher I am now.
This week started off quite well I managed to get all the panels preped and primed ready for paint. So Monday morning it was on with the first coat of colour after all the usual paint setting up process of course (panel wash/clean, tack rag, set spray pressure/pattern etc) and it went on with no problems - until I viewed it the next day in the sunlight outside, to say that I was disappointed was an understatement, the finish was ok this is only the first of 3 coats its having, but the ripples that I had spent so long it trying to get rid of stuck out like a sore thumb but strangely you couldn't feel them, so I'll start the process again on the running boards. However I set up the rest of the panels and give them their first coat (not enough room in my 16x20 double garage to set then all out for painting at the same time so I'm doing them in batches) again the paint went on lovely with no runs or drips - however again viewing it the next day I was again horrified at what I saw - micro-blistering in the finish due the high ambient temperature - so for now I've pulled stumps and packed up painting until it cools down, so its back to the wet flatting again.
A bit of good news though I now have my bit of bling in the shape of a custom made aluminium radiator it has a 55mm core and its 90mm longer and has an accessible filler neck.
11630116311162911632116331163411635

meverett
31-05-2020, 09:05 PM
I set up an old market stall frame with tarp covering it. It was weather like this and got bleddy hot inside. I only had room inside to spray a couple of panels at a time. I have been happy with all the panels except the running boards. When they have been flattened back then mopped I can get a deep shine but you can see ripples which are in the fiberglass. I have flattened back and mopped a couple of times and they did look better but still ripples and they are currently flattened back while I decide what to do.
Cheers, Martin.

dcunn
31-05-2020, 09:23 PM
Those ripples seem to be par for the course, Q67 which I rebuilt was exactly the same, I gave up and ended up with nice smooth ripples !