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  • COOLING

    I'm thinking of fitting a kenlow electric fan as a secondary back up,Are there any pitfalls I should be aware of.

  • #2
    Re: COOLING

    Jim. I have a series 2000 Kenlowe and it pulls a hefty current of about 20A when running. At start up the surge was so great that I had to fit two slow-blow fuses in parallel to stop them blowing. Also the curved rotating blades next to the fixed stator blades make quite a whine when running - Sounds more like a gas turbine than a Rover V8! Kenlowe seem to have addressed the start up current surge problem by what they call "power boost" or some such name. I suspect they have a resistor in circuit which the power boost switch isolates. I have considered a similar system using a spare Sierra heater "speed control" resistor as those are designed to loose a lot of heat and are mounted in a perforated metal cage.

    I have also moved my fan 10mm away from the core as the motor was blocking a lot of the airflow through the core. See my earlier thread on the Cabrio / Hunter section. Also use the largest diameter that you can fit.

    If I had to fit another fan I would probably look at a Pacet. Peter.

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    • #3
      Re: COOLING

      Hi Jim,
      I fitted an 11" Pacet behind my rad as in the pic. It fits between the rad. and the steering rack
      I don't have a mech fan, only the electric and it seldom comes on. The thermo.S/W is in the top hose and I've also fitted a bypass S/W so that if I'm sat still for some time or in stop/start traffic I can switch the fan on to keep the underbonnet temp. down.
      I'm not sure of the current draw but it's 20A fuse hasn't blown so it's less than that.
      Attached Files

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      • #4
        Re: COOLING

        hi there folks, i have a slightly different cooling problem in that i am looking for a rad suitable to keep my 2000 fiat engine cool i think the old land crab bits are now extinct does anyone know of a modern 3 row equivalent,
        Regards Rob Lake

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        • #5
          Re: COOLING

          Hi Robert, I have a project roadster at present with a V8 fitted. The rad is an alloy one , Merc 190, but the plastic top and bottom tanks have been removed and new ones made from alloy billet. This lets the inlet and outlet be positioned where I need them. This rad has the right dims to fit the Roadster nosecone. The other option let a rad company use your top and bottom tanks and build in a three core or four core. There was a member ran a full Cosworth engine Roadster with a four core. I have another Roadster here with a three core on the old tanks, never any overheating problems.
          Regards
          Danny.

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          • #6
            Re: COOLING

            I am about to buy an electric cooling fan for my Berli rebuild, any recommendations? I also need to get a switch, should I get an adjustable one or fixed? The thermostat is a 92° one so if I went for a fixed switch what would be the temp required? And lastly most of the recommendations are to fit the switch in the top hose but space is very tight so would it work ok in the bottom hose where there is plenty of room? Thanks in advance. Scott.

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            • #7
              Re: COOLING

              If you search on eBay for the donor car and engine combination you should find the appropriate switch. I would also fit an override switch with an indicator bulb.

              Also search the skcc forum there is lots of advice about cooling fans...
              Last edited by andyf; 03-08-15, 09:05 AM.
              Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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