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  • Handbrake woes...

    My run of bad luck with cars continues...

    Last week I managed to get the Marlin on the road to the mot station and through the mot, all was well. Until on the way home (17 miles) the rear brakes were making a groaning noise. Eventually got it home and discovered the rear offside piston had leaked fluid all over the shoes in that drum. The nearside rear brake shoes were binding tight against the drum and it was were a real struggle to remove the drum. Ordered 2 rear pistons and shoes. Cleaned the ill offside drum and contents thoroughly, fitted new pistons and shoes and reassembled it all once more then bled the air out of the system. However, I found the two brakes were very uneven, the nearside was still tight so I adjusted it to be 'just free' like the offside one.

    Off the axle stands, on the ground and 10yds from the garage door I realize the handbrake was very loose; I could lift it 8 clicks to the full height and the car could still move.

    Back in the garage and this time I reverse it up onto ramps, chock the front wheels and get underneath... I then see that the handbrake adjuster (threaded tube with 2 x 13mm nuts either side of a plate) is screwed right to the very ‘forward’ end – meaning I can’t tighten the handbrake cable by the usual means. The next option is to undo the big bolt & welded nut which is bolted onto the handbrake assembly (there is a hole drilled through the welded nut through which the handbrake cable goes & the big 24mm bolt screws into the welded nut to hold the cable fast) and pull the cable forward maybe an inch or so and then tighten up the big bolt and then unthread the adjuster nuts further down so I can give more tension to the whole cable. Sounds simple enough  … but when I undo the 24mm bolt until it’s loose; the cable doesn’t move at all through it. I built a lever action jig and pulled and pushed as much as I can but the cable will not budge. I suspect that it has become compressed so much inside the nut that it won’t come through the forward hole in the nut.



    In this pic you can see the silver 24mm bolt going into the welded nut, the handbrake cable is passing through it.
    Of course it really doesn’t help that the prop shaft is in the way and I can’t get my fingers there & have had to improvise with all manner of spanners and bits of wood etc. It all looks wet because I sprayed wd40 as much as I could towards the cable entrance / exit holes & left it overnight to soak through... made no difference.
    I am loathe to have to remove the prop shaft not only because I’ll have to somehow jack the car up high enough and off the ramps so I can turn the wheels to get the prop shaft to rotate to allow me to get at all of the bolts but also because I’d have source and replace all 8 of the nyloc UNF nuts once I’ve identified them…

    All for a handbrake cable! I can only think that the nearside brake adjuster on the rear of the backplate is the root of all my problems; by adjusting it to enable the shoes to be adequately free – it has taken all the tension out of the handbrake cable.
    Is there an easy way forward that I haven’t seen here?

  • #2
    Re: Handbrake woes...

    Underneath the big bolt was inserted a lead pellet disc that compressed to grab the cable.

    You will need to dig this out before the cable will pull through and make up a new pellet when reassembling.

    Easiest way would be to demount the hand brake assembly from the tunnel.

    The prop shaft nuts are 5/8 UNF 9/16 AF and are half nuts. If your stuck for replacements you could give the nyloc top a clout before refitting with a hammer. But if you PM me your address I can let you have 8 as I had to buy a box full.
    Ben Caswell probably not the last word on anything here!!

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    • #3
      Re: Handbrake woes...

      I have a Roadster and when I refurbished the inside I took the top off the prop shaft tunnel to investigate the hand brake system having a very poor access from under the car,almost impossible to get at the adjuster nuts.When I got the top off it was very easy to adjust the handbrake as it was then very easy to get at.What I did with the top of the tunnel then I screwed it back down instead of pop rivets to hold it down ,the carpet I covered the tunnel in I did it so it is very easy to get off the tunnel and access the hand brake adjuster,about an 1/2 hour job but easier than trying to get at the adjuster from under the car for me.Best of luck with your project.

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      • #4
        Re: Handbrake woes...

        When I adjust my handbrake cable I get the car as high as possible, prop it with big wooden blocks under the chassis and let the back wheels and prop shaft drop. This gives more space to get spanners and knuckles in.
        Franklin, Leicester

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        • #5
          Re: Handbrake woes...

          On my cars the pellet under the bolt that clamps the cable is aluminium. The clamping work hardens the pellet forming an effective clamp. I made new ones by cutting 4mm slices off a piece of ½” rod that I had in stock ( isn’t it fun to switch from metric to imperial with such ease) I annealed these by taking the chill off them with a blow lamp ( just short of red hot) they have worked very well. I agree that adjustment is much easier from above and you can also demount the whole hand brake to clean out the old aluminium (or lead). To free the cable I would suggest tightening up the adjusters at the wheels as far as they will go and then, with the clamping bolt out or loose pull on the hand brake as hard as you can, eat some spinach before if necessary, that should free it.

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          • #6
            Re: Handbrake woes...

            Originally posted by old-n-notpastityet View Post
            I have a Roadster and when I refurbished the inside I took the top off the prop shaft tunnel to investigate the hand brake system having a very poor access from under the car,almost impossible to get at the adjuster nuts.When I got the top off it was very easy to adjust the handbrake as it was then very easy to get at.What I did with the top of the tunnel then I screwed it back down instead of pop rivets to hold it down ,the carpet I covered the tunnel in I did it so it is very easy to get off the tunnel and access the hand brake adjuster,about an 1/2 hour job but easier than trying to get at the adjuster from under the car for me.Best of luck with your project.
            I have used stainless rivnuts and screws to attach the tunnel cover for this very reason. The tunnel carpet cover is held on by velcro.

            Adrian

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            • #7
              Re: Handbrake woes...

              Thanks guys... your information and past experience explains a lot.. Ben - I might be getting in touch shortly! I'll take off 2 nuts and id them to be certain they are 5/8ths & 9/16ths first. Given that these prop shaft nuts & bolts only serve a simple job - would it not be possible to change them to metric ones?
              If 'coming in from above' - would I have to cut a hole in the top of the prop shaft tunnel - or is it designed with a removable access panel?

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              • #8
                Re: Handbrake woes...

                Hi Tony yep your right! well it was thirty years ago.

                Hi element

                I wouldn't say the bolts do a simple job they have to work quite hard and you don't want them coming undone.
                The bolts which are high tensile have a blank shank that is engineered to fit snug into the flange with the run out(shank to thread point) in the correct position.
                I doubt if you would find an exact match in metric as the flanges would be engineered to imperial measurements .
                You should be able to match the bolts and nuts at a Land rover dealers as earlier land rovers and freelanders used the same bolts.
                The original tunnel top was bolted or screwed on to the sides, you should be able to remove it without cutting it.
                Last edited by b_caswell; 13-08-16, 10:27 AM.
                Ben Caswell probably not the last word on anything here!!

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                • #9
                  Re: Handbrake woes...

                  Easier to get the right nuts and some spares. I have been known to re-use nylocs with no problems.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Handbrake woes...

                    Easier to get the right nuts and some spares. The bolts are a close fit in the imperial holes. have ben known to re-use nyloc nuts with out catastrophic results.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Handbrake woes...

                      Ok, as it happens I managed to find 3 new nyloc nuts (figured I could loctite the fourth old one) & the forward ones are just bolts threaded into the forward prop shaft plate and the adapter made to meet the Fiat gearbox. However having just taxed, mot'd & insured the car and finally we have some good weather, I thought I'd ignore the handbrake & just have some fun driving this weekend & be mindful of how & where I park it (in gear). I could return it to the garage monday evening & spend three or four evenings on the handbrake... The hood was off & I drove out of the garage just to be met with a heavy downpour, so I reversed back in & 5 mins later went out again - or tried to.. The ignition key mechanism disintegrated and bits fell onto my feet.. What can I say... new post starting...

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