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Panhard rod or not?

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  • Panhard rod or not?

    Been reading up on the benefits of a panhard rod fitted to the rear of the roadster.

    I stumbled upon the post that mlincsmit posted in 2010 with an RTL linkage.

    Capture.JPG

    Are these still available or something that is fabricated to order? Anyone made a DIY copy of this?

  • #2
    Re: Panhard rod or not?

    The original Panhard rod design was attached to the “live” axle at one end and to the body on the other side of the car. Although this prevents sideway movement of the rear axle it does rotate through an arc so there will still be a very small sideways movement involved, which may be more noticeable on a narrower car / set up with a resulting shorter rod.

    This effect is overcome by using a Watts Linkage which allows a true up and down movement whilst preventing sideways movement of the axle. Google Watts Linkage to see some options. I have seen two types. One has the pivoting link mounted on a strengthened diff and the connecting struts are mounted to the body. The other type, using the same principle, has the bracket mounted at the centre of the body and the struts are attached to each end of the axle. I guess in theory the latter design will give less unsprung weight but body and fuel tank locations may make it less easy.

    Your photo shows a modified Watts linkage which I guess will be mounted to the body as per my second option above.

    I wonder if it would give much benefit on such a light car as a Roadster, unless you are into serious competition work? Peter.

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    • #3
      Re: Panhard rod or not?

      Thanks Peter. I was reading up about them and a friend of mine built a roadster in the 80's and speaking to him the panhard rod made a huge difference. The watts linkage looks a better option but also looks to be expensive. As I am on the rebuild it seems the perfect opportunity but not a problem to fit when it's finished.

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      • #4
        Re: Panhard rod or not?

        Originally posted by meverett View Post
        Thanks Peter. I was reading up about them and a friend of mine built a roadster in the 80's and speaking to him the panhard rod made a huge difference. The watts linkage looks a better option but also looks to be expensive. As I am on the rebuild it seems the perfect opportunity but not a problem to fit when it's finished.
        I guess with only a couple of spring leaves it would help. Maybe fit Supaflex spring bushes as a cheaper first upgrade? I had those big rubber ones on my Mk2 Cortina and there was a lot of sideways movement within the rubber bush. Peter.

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        • #5
          Re: Panhard rod or not?

          When I upgraded to Polybushes at the rear I left my factory-style Panhard off to see what the difference might be, if any...I soon refitted it as there appeared to be a noticeable difference for the worse.
          As regards the factory-style rod, ideally it should be more horizontal with the axle line (something the RTL overcomes), but given the way the tower locates to the chassis and the path of the shockers it is slightly compromised due to available space.
          Definitely easier to access and work on without rear tub and tank in place so now is a good time to consider..!
          Marlin Roadster, LWB...1860 B Series + Ford Type 9
          Renault Espace 54mm front calipers, vented discs, cycle wings and adjustable tie-bars.

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          • #6
            Re: Panhard rod or not?

            Superflex bushes and adjustable shocks all round are a good investment.
            If you can't find a balance, check which torsion bars and springs you have.
            Then consider panhard rods etc.
            Clearly they will make a difference but whether it's practical or not in a car whose suspension was adopted from a (possibly) unknown donor, with completely different weight distribution and axle weights forum a standard Marina that had a reputation for poor handling........

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            • #7
              Re: Panhard rod or not?

              Originally posted by stevejgreen View Post
              Superflex bushes and adjustable shocks all round are a good investment.
              If you can't find a balance, check which torsion bars and springs you have.
              Then consider panhard rods etc.
              Clearly they will make a difference but whether it's practical or not in a car whose suspension was adopted from a (possibly) unknown donor, with completely different weight distribution and axle weights forum a standard Marina that had a reputation for poor handling........
              Hi,
              where can i buy the superflex bushes?
              My rubber bushing are very poros.

              Patrick

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              • #8
                Re: Panhard rod or not?

                Try here http://www.superflex.co.uk/products.php?cat=234&pg=2
                Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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                • #9
                  Re: Panhard rod or not?

                  I have a home brewed panhard on mine , whilst accepting it is not geometrically perfect the handling seems to be tighter with it , it also cheap to make and easily within my limited skills to produce. In the fullness of time i will be going to a full five link set up [retaining the leaf spring as required for trials]. Have a google for wob link suspension a variation on watts linkages but probably easier to fit , and with potential to lower the roll centre.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Panhard rod or not?

                    You don't want to lower the rear roll centre without doing the same at the front otherwise the car will become unstable. You should be aiming for ghetto same roll centre height at both ends.
                    Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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                    • #11
                      Re: Panhard rod or not?

                      I also fitted a panhard rod to my marina roadster as well as anti tramp bars, sort of five link with the leaf springs as two of the links. It worked really well. A drop bracket welded to the crossmember close to the chassis rail on one side and a bracket pointing backwards welded to the springplate on the axle the other side carried the rod parallel to, and at the same height as the axle centre, across behind the shock absorbers. The links each side went from stubs on reinforcing plates fixed to the outside face of the chassis rails several inches above and just behind the front leaf spring mounts to brackets fixed to the outer u-bolts each side. It was all made from bits of triumph trailing links, left over from a previous build, to give rubber bushes at the ends of each rod. Used the car for a bit of autotesting - great fun.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Panhard rod or not?

                        That's interesting, have you got any photos of what you have added. It's the ideal time as I have got good access without the rear tub and fuel tank.

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                        • #13
                          Re: Panhard rod or not?

                          Afraid not. Car was built in 1989 and sold 1998, we didn't take many photos back then. Having said that, the buyer was only 10 miles away and I see it is now SORN'd. If he still has it and not moved or sold then maybe.

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