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Surely this is a over heating probem

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  • Surely this is a over heating probem

    18 years ago I built a YKC Roadster using all the running gear from Sierra 2.0 DOHC efi GLS. It has behaved superbly in all that time until this year. I was coming back from the annual kt car meet at Stoneleigh and after about 30 miles the engine started to miss a beat, then more and more until finally I was forced to stop and pull off the road. If I tried to restart the engine it would splutter, cough, so no go. I had a colleague with me and we decided it was probably a heat thing. Putting a 2.0 engine in the Marlin bay is always going to be a problem so we fit as
    large a radiator as possible, we have to lose one of the the 2 main fans, fit override switches and fit heat shields to attempt to eliminate the over heating problem. Now remember it has been running for 18 years without a hitch, including trips to Spain, Sweden and France (plenty more heat and mountain climbing).

    So here is the story so far. By sitting patiently at the side of the road for 20 mins. it cooled sufficiently to start and behave as it should for another 10 miles when the symptoms started again and we spluttered to a halt . We repeated the process for another 50 miles - each time the distance we could travel was reducing. The first thing I did was to replace the thermostat but that made no difference and now we re down to about 6 miles from cold before it would decide to splutter to a halt. I replaced the coil and put a different heat shield round it. No joy! The ignition control module was next and then on to the idle control valve. Still no joy and now we are down to about 3 miles.

    Has anyone had a similar problem and how did they resolve it?

  • #2
    Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

    Keith, are you sure it's not fuel starvation e.g. pump only running for a short time before stopping and then starting again when left for a few minutes. I once had a Facet mechanical fuel pump feeding carbs that would stop after a while and the car would splutter to a halt once the float chambers were empty. After leaving it for a while it would work again until the next time. Replaced it with a solid state pump years ago which has never been a problem since. I realise that the Ford DOHC Efi is a different set up altogether.

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    • #3
      Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

      Originally posted by ggrum View Post
      Keith, are you sure it's not fuel starvation e.g. pump only running for a short time before stopping and then starting again when left for a few minutes. I once had a Facet mechanical fuel pump feeding carbs that would stop after a while and the car would splutter to a halt once the float chambers were empty. After leaving it for a while it would work again until the next time. Replaced it with a solid state pump years ago which has never been a problem since. I realise that the Ford DOHC Efi is a different set up altogether.
      +1 for Geoff's comment. I had very similar symptoms (albeit a different engine)...eventually diagnosed as a failing HP fuel pump (after replacing just about everything else). Possibly not helped by high under-bonnet temperatures encountered in the confined Roadster engine bay, which may have caused the plastic casing around the terminals to fracture & expand, thereby breaking the contact internally when the temps went a little too high.
      Marlin Roadster, LWB...1860 B Series + Ford Type 9
      Renault Espace 54mm front calipers, vented discs, cycle wings and adjustable tie-bars.

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      • #4
        Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

        Could possibly be a sensor failure once above a certain temperature. I had a 911 which ran fine untill I had to slow for traffic, then it would cut out. Turned out to be the crankshaft speed sensor. David

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        • #5
          Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

          Keith, you have a failing fuel pump motor.
          Symptom 1. will tickover all day.
          No 2. will run for a while and then once the fuel pump has warmed up engine splutters, backfires, and finally stops.
          18 years out of a pump seems reasonable to me, what I don't understand is why people think fuel pumps last forever and will take apart and replace just about every switch, sensor, and electrical component but never check the fuel pressure.

          Your engine will run on reduced pressure but the performance will be limited. The fuel pump is running constantly once the engine is started, so how many squillions of revolutions has it done in 18 years?
          The pump runs at 55 to 75psi (generally speaking, wait for pedantic replies) your injectors open for a Nano second so how much fuel can you get into cylinder if the fuel is at 5psi compared to 55psi, its like pouring water from a bottle in 1 second or turning the tap on full for the same length of time, get the idea?
          Incidentally the pump motor for most EFi engines covers cars from 3litre Ferrari to 1600 Ford escort, just buy a Sytec or similar not an eBay lookey likey even if they are half the price, you will regret it.

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          • #6
            Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

            + 1 for fuel pump, just had to replace mine this year after it running for....... wait for it....... 18 years......
            2000 Marlin Cabrio LWB; 2.0 L Burton Pinto in Ford Nightfire Red with Magnolia leather interior.

            http://www.marlinownersclub.com/wppg...&image_id=2349

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            • #7
              Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

              It's a conspiracy wiggie, an inbuilt Ford design feature to promote the sale of EFi fuel pumps. Now where did I leave my aluminium foil hat? The one thing worth finding out is.... is yours an inny or an outy, pump, that is tank wise. http://www.fuelpumpsonline.co.uk/for...e-3-2659-c.asp
              Last edited by philcoyle; 31-08-17, 12:02 PM.

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              • #8
                Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

                My fuel pump gave up the ghost at about 19 years, lack of filter before it was the problem [i cut it open to check]. New cheap fuel pump from ebay with filter before it and all is well.
                My poor running last year was down to the rad, it was inadequate for the job, now replaced with rebuilt unit as a twin core and it drives great

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                • #9
                  Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

                  Had something very similar and it was the condensor breaking down in the ignition circuit, (old style contact breaker points system).

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                  • #10
                    Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

                    Just a thought. Is the breather on the fuel tank clear?

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                    • #11
                      Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

                      Before changing any more components, it would be worth the effort to try and read the engine fault codes.

                      There was a good description on how to do it on this engine here....

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                      • #12
                        Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

                        Originally posted by Peterx View Post
                        Before changing any more components, it would be worth the effort to try and read the engine fault codes.

                        There was a good description on how to do it on this engine here....

                        http://www.marlinownersclub.com/foru...ht=code+reader
                        Hello Peter, I made up an LED probe light ready to have a go and then fell fowl of circuit diagrams. My diagnostic connector is 3 pin in a triangle formation with the single socket at the top and the remaining 2 sockets forming the base. According to the genuine Ford circuit diagrams and the Haynes manual this top socket should be connected to a brown lead (ground) and the bottom pair of sockets brown/blue and green/blue. The problem I have is that the actual wire going to the top socket is blue/white or possibly blue/yellow (age staining?). The wiring to the diagnostic socket is as per what was on the original donor Sierra GLS loom so now I have to try and work out why it is different.

                        Any thoughts?

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                        • #13
                          Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

                          It has been suggested that the mechanic who did some work for me back in March may have got the new fuel filter he fitted the wrong way round. I can't check until tomorrow evening but if he has would it create the type of symptoms that I have been experiencing

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                          • #14
                            Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

                            Is the oil level OK. If so fuel starvation sounds like the problem
                            The only reason I said oil is because when we were young my friend had a Sierra that did the same thing and it was because it had used it's oil unbeknown to him as the oil light didn't come on the engine was simply heat seizing and then freeing off.

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                            • #15
                              Re: Surely this is a over heating probem

                              Well - I finally got around to removing the tank so that I could investigate the state of the pump. Having put a new pump not so long ago I was reluctant to do it but so many of you guys had said "petrol starvation" it had to be done. I must admit i was a tad stunned at what I found. When you go into a car parts factors and in all faith buy a tube of blue petrol resistant gasket sealant that it is what you would expect to walk away with. There, floating in the remains of the petrol in the tank were gobbets of gasket sealant, now in a slimy state in suspension. This afternoon I will be filtering the 3 gallons of petrol I have stored in cans, replacing the main filter, replacing the filters on the pump and rigging up a system so that I can run the engine with the tank on the garage floor.

                              The product I had used was ABRO "professional use" BLUE RTV silicone. The product I am about to use is Hylomar BLUE.
                              Has anyone had experiance of it?

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