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  • Radiators

    Evening folks, can anyone tell me what car supplied the radiator for the Roadster? And is there a supplier of an uprated/3core version of it? Many thanks Gareth.

  • #2
    Re: Radiators

    It was an HB Viva radiator as standard. A radiator remanufactured should be able to upgrade one for you.

    If the car has never been fitted on the car a Honda civic aluminium rad has been fitted to some cars. You'll find threads showing how they fit on the forum.
    Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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    • #3
      Re: Radiators

      Taken from the build manual.....
      "c) Radiator: Viva HB or HC 1300 (1.6 has larger tanks and same core, but will not fit). Chevette radiator also suitable.Austin 1800 (transverse engine) radiator can be used for heavy duty application."
      Build manual can be found here:
      Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 1800 Fiat Twin Cam engine and 5 speed Abarth gearbox built in 1987
      - I have no idea what I am talking about........ but my advice is always free! -

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      • #4
        Re: Radiators

        Thanks Jon Much appreciated.

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        • #5
          Re: Radiators

          I bought a recored 3 row rad based on the HC Viva from these guys on eBay: Cooling Solutions shop

          The cost was £160.

          They had another one for sale recently so it might be worth sending them a message.

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          • #6
            Re: Radiators

            Originally posted by jon_wilkinson View Post
            I bought a recored 3 row rad based on the HC Viva from these guys on eBay: Cooling Solutions shop

            The cost was £160.

            They had another one for sale recently so it might be worth sending them a message.
            My local radiator repairer has just recored the 3-row Viva item he originally did for me 20+ years ago...I got him to add a boss for a fan switch & longer overflow outlet this time around...£160 all in.
            Marlin Roadster, LWB...1860 B Series + Ford Type 9
            Renault Espace 54mm front calipers, vented discs, cycle wings and adjustable tie-bars.

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            • #7
              Re: Radiators

              It all depends where your starting point is.
              If you have no radiator or interconnecting pipework and fixing bracketry, then a Civic radiator is the way to go. If you have all of the afore mentioned, then a recored radiator is more cost effective.

              If however as your ID suggests you run a V8, then there are a whole host of discussion points that raise their ugly heads.

              A re-cored 1300 HB rad will not be enough to dissapate the heat energy from a V8, a thermostatic fan, and additional bonnet louvres will be required, always assuming that you have louvred engine side panels.
              MOC member since 05/97
              1984 Marlin Roadster SWB.
              1800TC, Unleaded ported head, stage 2 cam. Ford Type 9 gearbox, Dolomite Sprint rear axle fitted with MGF disc brakes.
              Three core radiator, Renault Clio vented front discs.
              The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.

              Loads of Marlin Reference can be found documents here or there.

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              • #8
                Re: Radiators

                My Roadster is a Mk1 made in 1980-1. The original "Parts List" from Marlin says, use a Radiator from a 105E Anglia. The builder of mine used a Radiator from a Mk3 Cortina, partly I suspect as he up rated the engine to Stage 3 Road specification. As mentioned by Steve he also put extra vents in the engine side panels. In 2010 it cost £100 for a replacement core, called an "Element" on the original bill. David.

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                • #9
                  Re: Radiators

                  H I Steve, yes as you pointed out, I'm running a v8, in a trials car. I already have a "kenlowe" fitted & 9" deep 20" long cutouts in the side panels & a heavily louvered bonnet.. She,s fine on the road, even in heavy traffic,but in the section parts of the trials she gets very hot very quickly. My radiator looks to be in good condition but appears "standard" if there is such a thing. I'm being advised a 3core upgrade will go along way to alleviate the problem, but I didn't know what the rad came from, hence the original post. I am also about to fit 2 extra "kenlowes", 1 on each sidepanel to draw heated air from the exhaust manifolds, these on a separate, manual switch on the dash. Any further advice, ideas will be much appreciated.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Radiators

                    Originally posted by v8 mudmover View Post
                    H I Steve, yes as you pointed out, I'm running a v8, in a trials car. I already have a "kenlowe" fitted & 9" deep 20" long cutouts in the side panels & a heavily louvered bonnet.. She,s fine on the road, even in heavy traffic,but in the section parts of the trials she gets very hot very quickly. My radiator looks to be in good condition but appears "standard" if there is such a thing. I'm being advised a 3core upgrade will go along way to alleviate the problem, but I didn't know what the rad came from, hence the original post. I am also about to fit 2 extra "kenlowes", 1 on each sidepanel to draw heated air from the exhaust manifolds, these on a separate, manual switch on the dash. Any further advice, ideas will be much appreciated.
                    There is a chance that wrapping the exhaust can reduce heat transfer, but if you have cast headers it may make them more susceptible to cracking.
                    On a road car it often helps to close any gaps around the radiator to get maximum airflow through it and not around it.

                    Ultimately I think your solution would be a custom radiator designed to make the best use of the Roadster nose cone, but any half decent radiator refurbisher should be able to advise.

                    As an afterthought, what water pump are you using? I did see one car where the water pump vanes had severely corroded, it was turning but barely pumping. Another related solution might be to fit an electric water pump if you can find one that shifts more water than the standard, or is there simply a higher capacity pump for your engine?

                    Ultimately it all comes down to the amount of money you want to throw at the problem.
                    MOC member since 05/97
                    1984 Marlin Roadster SWB.
                    1800TC, Unleaded ported head, stage 2 cam. Ford Type 9 gearbox, Dolomite Sprint rear axle fitted with MGF disc brakes.
                    Three core radiator, Renault Clio vented front discs.
                    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.

                    Loads of Marlin Reference can be found documents here or there.

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Radiators

                      Electric waterpump has been mentioned by another, I will have to try find the flow rate of the standard pump, to compare them. As to moneywise as little as possible, but obviously its got to be sorted as its no use as it is.

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                      • #12
                        Re: Radiators

                        If it's of any use, I've fitted a 12v, 3" blower, as used in inboard engined speedboats to clear fumes from the boat, and some 3" flexible tubing, to blow cold air under the carb to stop vapourization and it's cured the problem in traffic on the Roadster. The blower's fitted behind the front number plate, under the cowling out of sight.
                        Gareth.

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                        • #13
                          Re: Radiators

                          Some pictures would really help us to visualise the problem.
                          I take it you have an oil cooler fitted. Is it thermostatically controlled? Is it big enough? Where is it positioned (i.e. does it have good air flow)? Most oil coolers are sized for road use. Trialling would require a larger one.
                          Extra water capacity can also be a real help. Only issue is space for the swirl pot. Electric water pumps are good but you are stuffed if it fails. Also, they do not solve the problem of actually cooling the water. They just pump it around faster.
                          Look at the air flow capacity of your electric fan. They are all different, depends on speed of fan and fan blade design. Look for the real heavy duty ones that can shift a lot of air really quickly.
                          Check the mixture of your carbs and ignition timing. Lean mixtures and incorrect timing can make an engine run hotter than it should.

                          And as others have said. Make sure there is a really easy way out for the hot air. Holes, louvres, open the bonnet when on sections etc.
                          Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 1800 Fiat Twin Cam engine and 5 speed Abarth gearbox built in 1987
                          - I have no idea what I am talking about........ but my advice is always free! -

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Radiators

                            Originally posted by jon_cox View Post
                            Some pictures would really help us to visualise the problem.
                            I take it you have an oil cooler fitted. Is it thermostatically controlled? Is it big enough? Where is it positioned (i.e. does it have good air flow)? Most oil coolers are sized for road use. Trialling would require a larger one.
                            Extra water capacity can also be a real help. Only issue is space for the swirl pot. Electric water pumps are good but you are stuffed if it fails. Also, they do not solve the problem of actually cooling the water. They just pump it around faster.
                            Look at the air flow capacity of your electric fan. They are all different, depends on speed of fan and fan blade design. Look for the real heavy duty ones that can shift a lot of air really quickly.
                            Check the mixture of your carbs and ignition timing. Lean mixtures and incorrect timing can make an engine run hotter than it should.

                            And as others have said. Make sure there is a really easy way out for the hot air. Holes, louvres, open the bonnet when on sections etc.
                            Sorry jon but I don't own a camera!! or have a clever phone, there is a 13row oil cooler fitted, just above the front no plate, could try a 19row but I'm concerned about disrupting the airflow??. The elec fan in front is 12" across curved blade, 90w, 9amp 2300rpm, biggest I could find, & side panel fans (as yet unfitted are (9" 80w 7amp 2100rpm curved blades. Carbs have been completely rebuilt with new everything except bodies & mixture & timing are spot on. Next job is to check the waterpump vanes, as suggested though as in said on the road theres no issues , kenlowe never cuts in..

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                            • #15
                              Re: Radiators

                              When you are on the competitive sections you could try wedging a couple of small blocks of rubber under the rear edge of the bonnet stretching the bonnet clips to leave a gap to help release the heat.
                              Ben Caswell probably not the last word on anything here!!

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