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Thread: Using an engine stand...advice please.

  1. #1
    Club Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Using an engine stand...advice please.

    I've been collecting estimates for replacing the cylinder head on my carburated DOHC 2 litre 8 valve engine, which scraped through the MOT with high emissions and an oil leak. My quotes vary from £400-£800....even though I would be providing ALL the parts. I am therefore proposing to do the job myself. I know that it is not strictly necessary to remove the engine from the car to do this work, but I have an engine crane already and a stand can be had for about £50 which will enable proper visibility of all tasks involved. I've never done a Twin Cam head before, but I shall have experienced help and I shall be working at my own pace and (with a stand) at a good working height. I will also be able to renew the entire clutch assembly at the same time.
    Question...what type of engine stand would be best? Will I have to remove the flywheel? (you-tube videos suggest that I will). Anyone got any good advice for me?

  2. #2
    frequent forum contributor Club Member greyV8pete's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011

    Re: Using an engine stand...advice please.

    If you are only working on the head I wouldn’t think its worth buying an engine stand. Once the head is off the block just sits sulking in the corner of the garage! They are more use when stripping the engine for crank removal etc. Even a paint job can be achieved with judicious use of wooden blocks, or when hanging on the crane!

    With the antics of getting the engine gearbox out of a Marlin Cabrio I would spend the money on a load leveller for the crane. Peter.

  3. #3
    frequent forum contributor Club Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Kelsall Chester

    Re: Using an engine stand...advice please.

    I second greyV8pete, if you don't need to remove the engine, don't. What I have for cylinder dead work is the two stands, like iverted Ts with tapered spikes that go up the stud holes. This keeps it steady when inverted. Also off the bench the right way up.
    I have a 3 wheel engine stand that was used on a V8 and a twin cam Fiat. Depending on the spacers you use the flywheel can stay on. Handy for inverting the engine but and it is a big but, it is not the most stable. 3 wheels, load near the single wheel, all the stability of a Reliant Robin. I will put two extra wheels on the front before I use it again.

  4. #4
    frequent forum contributor Club Member chris_cussen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    South Somerset

    Re: Using an engine stand...advice please.

    Having done a cylinder head twice on the DOHC engine although with the radiator removed there is a reasonable amount of space to work at the front of the engine it is quite uncomfortable trying to get to the lower part of the front of the engine to remove the engine pulley and timing chain cover if you plan to replace the chain.

    I would remove just the engine and leave the gearbox in place.

    If you take the engine out you can leave removing the inlet manifold until after removal, which is also a bit of a pain with the engine in situ. The only additional bit of spanner work is to undo the engine mounts, and the ring of bolts around the gearbox.
    Just prior to removing the engine I put a strap around the front of the gearbox to hold it up.

    Since you plan on doing a clutch change you will have to remove the engine anyway.

    So really the question is, do you need an engine stand when you remove the head with the engine out? Well I have always just propped the front of the engine up on a very large block of wood, and that has been OK. The only problem with that is the engine tends to move around when torqueing up the head bolts, but if you have a trusty assistant then they should be able to steady it.
    Cabrio, Omex 2.0l 150bhp Zetec blacktop, Omex ECU and wiring loom.


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