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2.0 pinto timing

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  • 2.0 pinto timing

    Good evening folks. Looking for some guidance with the timing of my rebuilt pinto. I have added a picture of the cam pulley. It has been put back the way it came off. The pointer is facing the rear of the engine and the front of the pulley has a large fitted washed type thing that covers the holes. There are no timing marks on the front of the pulley. I have drilled a small dimple which matches the one on the rear of it. I have timed it with the bottom on tdc and the pointer at the top and bottom and still I can’t get any compression and it is blowing back through the carb so timing is not right. Any help ??AA62CE67-4F6F-4647-8350-7A07BEE0670E.jpeg
    Thanks

  • #2
    Re: 2.0 pinto timing

    91D76C11-D40E-40FE-A061-F2CE9C6173B8.jpeg

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    • #3
      Re: 2.0 pinto timing

      Long time since I have done one but there should be a drilled dimple in the face of the head to line up with the pointer on the cam pulley.

      Theres a picture showing what it looks like on this link, scroll down to post #18

      Last edited by cabrioman; 18-11-19, 06:03 PM.

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      • #4
        Re: 2.0 pinto timing

        Thanks mate. The problem is if you look at the pulley you can’t see the pointer through it so it’s impossible to line anything up with any dot on the head. Never seen a pulley like this before where you can’t see any timing mark from the front.

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        • #5
          Re: 2.0 pinto timing

          Page 4 of the Burton catalogue has some useful info.
          2car theme-4.qxp_Layout 1 18/01/2019 12:53 Page 3 Europe’s Leading Classic & Performance Ford Parts Specialist 2019 Catalogue www.burtonpower.com engine

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          • #6
            Re: 2.0 pinto timing

            Thanks. It’s a minefield lol

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            • #7
              Re: 2.0 pinto timing

              Can't help but think pulley was on the wrong way in the first place. Blowing back thro' carb suggests timing out by 180 degrees. Have you checked position of rotor arm when you have all other marks lined up?

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              • #8
                Re: 2.0 pinto timing

                Haven’t owned a pinto for many years but remember why I had a Cortina and the cam belt broke.
                I thought the camshaft pulley had a window cutout, had a quick search on fleebay and see there was a cutout window.

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                • #9
                  Re: 2.0 pinto timing

                  Another search on eBay shows 2 types, a Quaife solid pulley like the one you have or an original.

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                  • #10
                    Re: 2.0 pinto timing

                    The Haynes manual from the Ford Sierra is available online.

                    Chapter 2A deals with the SOHC engine.

                    The distributer rotor arm has to be fitted to check the position of the camshaft. The camshaft turns at half the crankshaft speed. Could it be that the camshaft is a full turn out?
                    Paul
                    Last edited by milliemarlin; 19-11-19, 08:22 AM. Reason: correct mistake

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                    • #11
                      Re: 2.0 pinto timing

                      ^ sounds like it to me, had a similar experience earlier in the year whilst replacing the timimg belt, sorted in about 15 mins, dizzy arm is a good tip in my opinion!!

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                      • #12
                        Re: 2.0 pinto timing

                        Thanks for the many replies. The problem is the original distributor has been removed ready for a new electronic ignition type to go on so getting any help from the distributor is not available. I also have a lazy starter so it turns over slower than normal but I would have thought it would show some compression. Will have another bash at it today. Thanks.

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                        • #13
                          Re: 2.0 pinto timing

                          It looks to me as though you should fit the backing plate to the cam first to get the position of the cam roughly right then slot the toothed part on in the position that it was in before you took it apart. This should get you to within 1 tooth of the correct timing. The only way to check for sure would be to dial it in. i.e look for the correct lift when #1 piston is at TDC with a dial gauge. This is of no use now but next time mark the head and the cam pulley with some tippex before you take it apart.
                          Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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                          • #14
                            Re: 2.0 pinto timing

                            Thanks. I have done that. I fitted the backing plate and turned the cam to the point where the pointer is at the dimple on the head and the crank is at tdc. I have done some digging and found that this is a vernier pulley that’s fitted to this cam which makes me think the cam has been upgraded at some point and the timing altered. I couldn’t tipex any points as the belt had been removed and refitted incorrectly giving zero compression. I have installed everything back and fitted new distributor and got it sparking good. Going to try and put some petrol down the carb to see if it gives and indication of starting. Not sure how to dial a cam in but I dare say google will. Cheers.

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                            • #15
                              Re: 2.0 pinto timing

                              1)The reason usually why a vernier adjustable pulley has been used is likely because it's got an uprated camshaft.
                              2) There is usually markings on the rear end of the camshaft eg 270, 285, RL1 etc

                              3) From that identification , you then have to gain the spec from the manufacturer for both the valve clearances and also the timing.

                              As an example many camshafts are measured at full lift using a dial guage indicator at between 104 & 110 deg on the crankshaft.

                              Before doing this you need to measure where TDC is on the bottom pulley using a dial guage as this maybe upto 4 degrees out from the pulleys TDC mark. Use Typex , mark over that with a thin pencil line or biro & then remove pulley and using a fine bladed junior hacksaw create a new tdc on the bottom pulley that corresonds to the TDC mark on the cover/block used for strobe timing.

                              Using a small protractor ligning o deg up with your new tdc mark on it then mark off wiith typex , line and finally a hacksaw mark for the full lift of the cam in degrees. eg 104 to 110 deg.
                              Now using the dial guage on the cam establish the full lift position.

                              With the Timing belt on and tensioned , you then select whichever hole the dowel will fit in and the washer holds it in place after the cambelt is torqued up.

                              Your initial comment of spiting back through the carbs is usually that you are 180 degrees out on the rotor arm ie at 8 degrees on the bottom pulley its firing on number 4 instead of number 1 cylinder or vice versa.

                              If you are on side draught carbs eg Twin 45's its normal for them to spit back through the carbs on initial start up.
                              However be aware that if you are drastically out on your cam timing that a flame can come out of the carbs and melt the venturi and air filter etc.


                              Cam timing is critical on any engine as it not only affects it's power curve but also it's fuel consumption too.

                              There's a good chance that the cam you have is either Piper, Kent or Emerald.
                              All of them have their individual cam timing specs and valve clearances.
                              Another clue if you have a very hot cam is you might also have double valve springs.

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