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Thread: The very long way to a boot lid

  1. #1 The very long way to a boot lid 
    club member Club Member Patrick's Avatar
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    This is a project that’s been been waiting for me to get to it for a very long time. The boot area has always been open with just two smaller panels either side.
    One of the side panels shown here with plenty of Cat Aided Design help.



    With the old side panels out I created a template out of cardboard.



    Fine tuning of the cardboard template.



    I’ve had this large piece of 1.5mm aluminium sat in storage for more than a year now!



    Stuck the cardboard on the aluminium sheet, drew around the cardboard with a silver pen.



    Using a mix of sheers and a nibbler I cut out the aluminium sheet. Wear gloves when using the nibbler, I didn’t have holes in my skin now ;o)



    Using the nibbler always leaves you with a nice pile of aluminium curls.



    The part is rough cut here, it’s taller than it needs to be.



    Couple of loose bends based on the old side panels.



    Used masking tape to protect the paint on the tub while test fitting this, it’s a couple cm above the height of the tub, so the next step is to mark up the final cuts.





    This does a great job sealing the boot area, but it’s not very practical to get stuff into the boot!



    Drawing up a lid/door for the boot area, the inner blue line show the opening, the outer line represents the overlap.



    I will create the overlap using a tool you’d normally use for overlap welding two metal sheets on bodywork repair. It does an excellent job putting a clean bend into the metal, as long as you make sure it’s placed square to the work piece. Here’s the test piece. I got mine from Frost and is listed as a joggler / joddler or flanger! It also has a hole punch which can be useful but is a really good way to pinch your palms in the tool if you’re not careful!



    Opening for the lid cut out – the aluminium was pretty floppy without the bends added. It’s much better now, but will also give the lid something to rest into.



    The flanger only gets you so far into a corner leaving a square that needed to be shaped in a different way.



    For this I used my vice and a sheet metal hammer.



    Test fitted it in the car with the opening – the rivnuts holding this area have been in the tub since before it was painted! Note the boot floor is also new, it’s a little thinner than the original and no longer has holes for the 3 point harnesses I had befor the new seat belts.



    Next up, need something to close the opening up again. This is a fresh sheet of 2mm aluminium – just about managed to cut it with the sheer. I tried some test cuts with the angle grinder using a disk specifically for aluminium. It works fine but it leaves a rolled over flashing that takes quite a bit of clean up. The cut with the sheer is clean. It can add some light bends to the metal but those are not too bad to get out.



    Square hole for the lock.





    I got a new hinge, the brass one that I was using for mockup was too bulky (It was originally for the bonnet before I replace with stainless during the original build).



    The wood floor is not thick enough to use wood screws to hold in the hinge, due to not being able to go buy stuff I custom made some ‘t nuts’ from some metal flat bar fixings I had in the parts bin. Drilled holes and tapped them for some M4 screws. Then used the router to add some recesses in the bottom of the floor.





    I’ve also had a roll of carpet / speaker cloth sitting on top of a cupboard for ages, time to apply it to all the parts! Used impact spray glue. A bit of WD40 in a cloth is an easy way to get rid of overspray.







    For the lid I’ve only applied carpet to one side, the intension is to add a brushed finish on the inside.



    Luckily I had a tin of varnish in the cupboard to seal up the boot floor, gives it a fancy shade of oak for when I next look at the car from underneath – plus it give the MOT tester something nice too look at







    Added a block to the top side – this will be for mounting the sheet metal at the bottom. Cut the carpet around it, the only visible side is shown in this shot so I made sure the carpet covers it.



    I think these brackets are from Ikea furniture, they were in the parts bin, combined them with some captive nuts.



    Brackets in place holding the bottom of the sheet metal.







    Here it is with everything in place, the inside of the lid still has the protective sheet on it, that’s something I’ll look at later.











    Ordered some new stainless cup washers and bolts to match





    I plan to add more panels inside the boot to stop small items disappearing and closing up more gaps where exhaust gas could come in.
    Last edited by Patrick; 08-05-2020 at 01:24 PM. Reason: t
    BMW E30 Sportster 2005 - M20B28 - Build Log and Updates http://www.msportster.co.uk/
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  2. #2 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
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    Very smart!
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  3. #3 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
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    Those cup washers and bolts are a nice touch. I might nick that idea.
    2000 Marlin Cabrio LWB; 2.0 L Burton Pinto in Ford Nightfire Red with Magnolia leather interior.

    http://www.marlinownersclub.com/wppg...&image_id=2349
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  4. #4 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
    club member Club Member Patrick's Avatar
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    Thanks

    I got the washers and matching bolts from here:

    https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk..._ForCsk_M.html

    Used the same type on my front wings.

    They have matching bolts too, I went with hex rather than torx or posi as I prefer the look

    https://www.westfieldfasteners.co.uk/ScrewBolt_M.html
    BMW E30 Sportster 2005 - M20B28 - Build Log and Updates http://www.msportster.co.uk/
    http://www.modelog.co.uk/
    http://www.mustang67.co.uk/
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  5. #5 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
    club member Club Member Patrick's Avatar
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    Continuing with the boot area I closed up the holes in the tub that the harnesses used to come through .

    These are aluminium, painted black then lined with rubber and held on with rivnuts, cup washers and bolts. Was thinking of leaving them shiny but ended up going for the subtle look.

    This is the prototype with multiple bends, final two are new fresh ones with each bend only done once.



    Final piece cut and bent, test fitting. A bit of blue tape to avoid scratching the paint.



    Cleaned and painted



    Applied a layer of 1mm rubber to the underside, I did this with double sided tape.



    Test fitting





    To mount these I added a rivnut to each part, M4 sized.



    To attach to the car a hole was added in the new boot lid trim.



    That cleanly attached these and closes up the gap nicely.





    The cup washer and bolt are a bit smaller than those that hold the trim in, and they’re also a bit closer to the edge. However the style matches.

    BMW E30 Sportster 2005 - M20B28 - Build Log and Updates http://www.msportster.co.uk/
    http://www.modelog.co.uk/
    http://www.mustang67.co.uk/
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  6. #6 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
    club member Club Member Patrick's Avatar
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    Next boot related project are the side panels. These I’m making out of aluminium, line with carpet and some rubber trim to seal them against the tub.
    Passenger side panel is simpler, just a big triangle.





    On the driver side there is the tank filler and the vent valve in the way. Here the first piece goes in for a test fit. This used to be one of the old small side panels from outside the boot area which is why there is glue all over it.





    After a load of foam board templating I created this piece of aluminium. The black lines show where it needs bends.





    After bending this comes a very solid piece.





    Test fitting the bent piece.





    This is the filler tube for the tank and the tank vent that this piece fits around.





    The rest of the side panel is held on with rivnuts and bolts with cup washers. There’s not much room so these need to go in as two pieces and then joined.





    To better secure the passenger side I created a 90º piece of aluminium and riveted it on. This means the back of the panel sits on the boot floor. In hindsight it would have been cleaner to add this as part of the main part, but the join will be hidden.





    Ran into another clearance issue on the driver side – the spare wheel tub gets in they way.





    To fix that I added a curve into the metal here – gives it about 1cm clearance from the spare wheel area of the tub.






    Parts removed ready for carpet.





    Driver side covered





    Impact glue going on to the passenger side.





    On the back of both side have rubber to reduce the chance of vibration and some JDM chopped tape. The sides are held in with a bolt into a rivnut. The rivnuts are mounted into the rear suspension towers.





    The finished side panels with rubber edging added to close the gap to the tub. There are some very small wood screws holding the complex part into the boot floor. This is mostly to top that end wandering around.





    On the passenger side the carpet is left long which better hides the edge.





    Only one panel left to go for the rear. No more loosing small things forever out the back of the car!


    BMW E30 Sportster 2005 - M20B28 - Build Log and Updates http://www.msportster.co.uk/
    http://www.modelog.co.uk/
    http://www.mustang67.co.uk/
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  7. #7 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
    club member Club Member listerjp2's Avatar
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    Nice project and looks good.

    Adrian
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  8. #8 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
    club member Club Member Patrick's Avatar
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    Thanks, I'm starting to get there now with the boot interior.


    The final trim piece is for the rear of the boot interior.


    Here’s the initial planning using foam board.



    Transferring the foam board to aluminium.



    Test fit before bending.



    Bends added, the left side needed a new piece adding and riveting to it during the test fit.



    Applying glue to the vertical surfaces first.



    Second stage was gluing down the rest of it. I’ve left a 1.5cm lip at the front to help the transition from this piece to the floor.



    Test fit the carpeted version in the boot.





    It’s not yet attached to the car and I still need to decide which rubber seals to use around it.
    BMW E30 Sportster 2005 - M20B28 - Build Log and Updates http://www.msportster.co.uk/
    http://www.modelog.co.uk/
    http://www.mustang67.co.uk/
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  9. #9 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
    club member Club Member Alan c's Avatar
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    I admire you quality and patience - did it significantly reduce noise levels when driving ?
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  10. #10 Re: The very long way to a boot lid 
    club member Club Member Patrick's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alan c View Post
    I admire you quality and patience - did it significantly reduce noise levels when driving ?

    Thanks - with the exhaust set to "quiet" mode it has reduced the noise through from under the car. With the exhaust set to loud mode not so much

    The two main reasons were to reduce exhaust fumes into the car and not loosing stuff out the back. Does both of those quite well.

    I can now also stop worrying about my toolkit disappearing on me if I park the car somewhere.
    BMW E30 Sportster 2005 - M20B28 - Build Log and Updates http://www.msportster.co.uk/
    http://www.modelog.co.uk/
    http://www.mustang67.co.uk/
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