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Thread: Door lock Pull Cable

  1. #21 Re: Door lock Pull Cable 
    club member Club Member chris_cussen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    South Somerset
    Thanks Dave.
    The cables I orignally used were long enough and came from a Fiesta Mk1 2 door model.
    Bad news it the Puma cable I bought seemed to be the only one in existance....
    However the old cable with the lug snapped off was had some spare length, so I got some bicycle break cable and used the outer to made a slightly shorter spare. I used the bike cable because the original outer cable was brittle and had cracked.
    Cabrio, Omex 2.0l 170bhp Zetec blacktop, Omex ECU and wiring loom.
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  2. #22 Re: Door lock Pull Cable 
    club member Club Member kahawi's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2018
    Bideford, Devon, UK
    I’ve a LWB Hunter, and had early issues with both door lock cables. My interpretation of the problem: - Solid-core wire used, cable too short and a near right-angle bend at the lock end, making any movement very difficult.


    I purchased universal replacement bicycle cables from Wilko (for all of £1.50 each). Try to get the thickest inner cable you can. These are not solid wire like the Ford originals but come with outer and inner, which are flexible, the nipple at the handle end fits perfectly. On my Hunter, you can lock the doors by pushing the handle ‘in’ there is no lock switch, so you do need very stiff cable, due to the ‘loop’ left in the handle plastic enclosure.

    Removing the lock end fittings from the solid wire, for re-use proved impossible, they are swaged in place and the inner wire could not easily be drilled out.
    Plan ‘B’:- Locate some brass parts (from my old BA screw box set) the wire fittings at the lock end are not needed to be crucially accurate, so long as they slide/move within each other and the sheet steel pressing of the lock mechanism. Fortunately I have an old wood-turning lathe and a good set of drills and files. It proved quite easy to convert a couple of brass bolts by drilling and filing to match the required parts. Picture-4


    Brass was a wise choice, since it can be soldered easily onto the bicycle cable. I used two different solders, normal electrical and lead-free plumbers - which melts at a higher temperature, enabling me to carefully adjust the position of the end fittings individually, some trial and error being needed.
    As can be seen from the door photo Picture-3, I’ve lengthened the inner and outer cable as much as possible to give a smooth curve from the handle to the lock. The dimensions (French notches) in the first photo Picture-1 are probably the original sizes. Short of ripping the door panel off I can’t quite recall, but make the 606 length as long as possible, without looping out of the top of the door, as shown.

    The completed lock cable is shown in Picture-2. The Wilko outer was slightly larger than the original, so the end fittings could be drilled out and ‘Super-Glue’ has held it all in place, with the help of some heat-shrink quite successfully so far.

    Hope this helps someone,
    Best regards
    Colin Barrett
    Marlin Hunter R500 ULA 1997 Ford-Based Hunter with 2.3 DOHC L4 engine, chassis/kit No. 157
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  3. #23 Re: Door lock Pull Cable 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Good information Colin - I hope I don't have to use it! Probably the best thing to use to join these would be silver solder. Not easy to find and can be pricey, but worth searching out. Dave
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