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  • #61
    Re: Overheating Roadster

    Originally posted by stephenlilley View Post
    Morning. Its a home made steel manifold and I have a 2" big bore exhaust. The throttle is a Shimano gear cable with a slow bend, really smooth action. The linkage is simplified with two springs attached to brackets on the manifold bolts.I made up a S/S bracket fixed to each carb inner bolt. It works well and does look quite neat, I think !!.I have done lots of other mods including a Sprung hood frame, rear hinged bonnet, Rear MGF discs. etc I seem to be always at it, especially these days.
    Need pictures and details of rear discs and hood frame. Could you start a couple of dedicated threads to these two items. We all love to see mods and upgrades. Car looks lovely by the way. A real credit to your skill and ability.
    Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 1800 Fiat Twin Cam engine and 5 speed Abarth gearbox built in 1987
    - I have no idea what I am talking about........ but my advice is always free! -

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    • #62
      Re: Overheating Roadster

      Originally posted by jon_cox View Post
      Need pictures and details of rear discs and hood frame. Could you start a couple of dedicated threads to these two items. We all love to see mods and upgrades. Car looks lovely by the way. A real credit to your skill and ability.
      I'd be interested too
      Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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      • #63
        Re: Overheating Roadster

        Thanks for all the nice comments. I found that trying to fit the hood in cold weather was a real tight squeeze as it was stiff. So I made these Mods to the frame tube using compression springs and large washers. My welding is not the best but they work well none the less. They literally squash down when fitting the hood and spring back up keeping it taught. My Roadster is a very early Mk1 and have the old style tube sockets. Will post Disc conversion soon.
        Attached Files

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        • #64
          Re: Overheating Roadster

          Whilst I'm on a roll. Here is my clip on grill. It makes access to the remote fan and the Rad so much easier. I used Headlamp mesh grill clips.
          Attached Files

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          • #65
            Re: Overheating Roadster

            Originally posted by stephenlilley View Post
            Whilst I'm on a roll. Here is my clip on grill. It makes access to the remote fan and the Rad so much easier. I used Headlamp mesh grill clips.
            Looks neat.

            I'm interested in the MGF rear disk conversion if you have any details that you could share please
            Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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            • #66
              Re: Overheating Roadster

              It was some time ago when I did the conversion, I will try and put something together. Steve in Spain has a very detailed write up in Keep and share of the conversion. In the meantime, Here is one pic of the fitted MGF disc and caliper. also how I sorted the handbrake cable which was the original MGF one shortened and I fashioned a cantilever type bracket so the two cables pull equally. I put a double locking bolt on each cable for added strength. There is also plenty of adjustment as you can see. Its a great conversion and works really well. You may have to upgrade your front discs with Greenstuff pads as the rear will be a lot more powerful than standard front brake
              Attached Files

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              • #67
                Re: Overheating Roadster

                That does look neat. I've looked on Steve's Keep and Share but can't find the write up. If you have the link could you please share it.
                Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

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                • #68
                  Re: Overheating Roadster

                  Originally posted by andyf View Post
                  That does look neat. I've looked on Steve's Keep and Share but can't find the write up. If you have the link could you please share it.
                  The key component to converting to MGF discs on a Marina rear axle us it’s mounting bracket.

                  This was my prototype drawing before I made some from MDF to test fit.

                  I have other pictures on flicker. This was 10 years ago, you might find info on the fastmarina forum.

                  I didn’t complete the project on a Marina axle, as I had previously fitted a Sprint rear axle and converted that to disks.

                  Drawing

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                  • #69
                    Re: Overheating Roadster

                    Originally posted by stevejgreen View Post
                    The key component to converting to MGF discs on a Marina rear axle us it’s mounting bracket.

                    This was my prototype drawing before I made some from MDF to test fit.

                    I have other pictures on flicker. This was 10 years ago, you might find info on the fastmarina forum.

                    I didn’t complete the project on a Marina axle, as I had previously fitted a Sprint rear axle and converted that to disks.

                    Drawing
                    Thanks Steve, it's always easier to start with a prototype
                    Mk2 SWB Marina Roadster with a 2.0L Pinto built in 1986

                    Comment


                    • #70
                      Re: Overheating Roadster

                      Originally posted by andyf View Post
                      Thanks Steve, it's always easier to start with a prototype
                      From memory I needed to make a securing ring to replace the backplate, and hold the oilseal in place.

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                      • #71
                        Re: Overheating Roadster

                        Hi James

                        Did you ever sort out your over heating problem, I have got mine running now and although its only been run up in the garage it looks like I've cured my over heating problem. I've had it running several times now in hot temperatures in the garage and have been giving it some revs and right on que the electric fan kicks in runs for a couple of minutes then shuts off again and so on for however long the engine is running. I did notice that when the fan was running and I turned the ignition off the engine carries on running for a few seconds but through a forum post I was told to put a diode in the fan wiring circuit and that cured the problem. Another major thing that I think contributed to my over heating problem was the ignition timing originally being to retarded (also mentioned in another post on this forum) what brings me to that conclusion is fitting an Accuspark electronic distributer I've really racked my brains trying to obtain the correct ignition timing with a strobe light. I've tried everything to get the timing set at 10 degrees before TDC as per the book but its impossible, I can get it running at 10 degrees but its like a bag of crap and you can tell that the engine is not at all happy there. I've had the timing cover off to check cam timing, fitted a new timing chain and gone through the distributer drive gear set up a dozen times, the engine runs really sweet at 28 degrees before TDC and it still responds to the throttle and does not overheat. I'm still rebuilding the car at the moment so can't asses what its performance will be like on the road. Indecently I've fitted a new water pump purely because the old one started dripping through the gland, so it was a case of while were here! I'm at the panel re-fitting stage now so I'm still hopeful of it seeing tarmac this year.

                        Regards to all

                        Mick.
                        Last edited by marlinmick; 28-06-21, 08:36 PM.

                        Comment


                        • #72
                          Re: Overheating Roadster

                          Originally posted by marlinmick View Post
                          Hi James

                          Did you ever sort out your over heating problem, I have got mine running now and although its only been run up in the garage it looks like I've cured my over heating problem. I've had it running several times now in hot temperatures in the garage and have been giving it some revs and right on que the electric fan kicks in runs for a couple of minutes then shuts off again and so on for however long the engine is running. I did notice that when the fan was running and I turned the ignition off the engine carries on running for a few seconds but through a forum post I was told to put a diode in the fan wiring circuit and that cured the problem. Another major thing that I think contributed to my over heating problem was the ignition timing originally being to retarded (also mentioned in another post on this forum) what brings me to that conclusion is fitting an Accuspark electronic distributer I've really racked my brains trying to obtain the correct ignition timing with a strobe light. I've tried everything to get the timing set at 10 degrees before TDC as per the book but its impossible, I can get it running at 10 degrees but its like a bag of crap and you can tell that the engine is not at all happy there. I've had the timing cover off to check cam timing, fitted a new timing chain and gone through the distributer drive gear set up a dozen times, the engine runs really sweet at 28 degrees before TDC and it still responds to the throttle and does not overheat. I'm still rebuilding the car at the moment so can't asses what its performance will be like on the road. Indecently I've fitted a new water pump purely because the old one started dripping through the gland, so it was a case of while were here! I'm at the panel re-fitting stage now so I'm still hopeful of it seeing tarmac this year.

                          Regards to all

                          Mick.
                          Precise timing by the book is a bit of a pipe dream based on leaded fuel not on E5 or the soon to arrive E10 fuels that have very different burn characteristics. Pinking or preignition is the thing to avoid as it causes damage and dramatic loss of power.

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                          • #73
                            Re: Overheating Roadster

                            Agreed...it's hard..!
                            For a stock setup Burgess recommends 11 degrees static (= 31 degrees max) for basic unleaded & 14 degrees static (= 34 degrees max) for super.
                            I have no idea what setting mine ended up on, but after a few iterations on the road it now runs quite nicely but I'm expecting to add a little more advance if/when I swap to super-unleaded to avoid E10.
                            Marlin Roadster, LWB...1860 B Series + Ford Type 9
                            Renault Espace 54mm front calipers, vented discs, cycle wings and adjustable tie-bars.

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