Click here to sign up  Click here to go to the galleries  Click here to go to the code of conduct  Click here to go to the video page  Click here to go to the SW Meets page
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 19 of 19

Thread: Alternator problem… again.

  1. #11 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    Moderator Club Member
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    Derby
    Posts
    1,511
    My Alfa engined Roadster had a separate/remote voltage regulator despite if I remember it being a Bosch alternator. It looked like a slightly bigger version of the voltage stabiliser they use on Smiths instruments such as fuel and temp gauges. It's a sealed unit so non adjustable.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #12 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    14
    I only have information for these alternators. Lucas 15AC these have seperate alternator control unit. These are a square box having three lucar connections a space then another all on the same side, this is marked 4TR or another rectangular box marked 8TR with the terminals in the same position. These are interchangeable.
    Lucas 15 and 17ACR Alternators, in these machines the control unit is built into the alternator, Resistors R1 and R2 are used for battery voltage sensing. Delco Remy Type DN460 Resistor R2, R3 and a Thermister causes voltage to vary with temperature. Again this control unit is built into the
    alternator. I think it follows that when having an alternator repaired ask the mechanic to check it out at as near to running temperature as possible. I hope this helps Stuart
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #13 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Kelsall Chester
    Posts
    727
    First ring the reconditioner and ask them to sort it. If they won't help tell them that you intend to get someone else to fix it and you expect to recover the money from them. This may well be the cheaper option. I would be surprised if Dundee did not have a decent Auto electrician.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #14 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    club member Club Member element's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Crieff, Perthshire
    Posts
    271
    Quote Originally Posted by HairyDave View Post
    First ring the reconditioner and ask them to sort it. If they won't help tell them that you intend to get someone else to fix it and you expect to recover the money from them. This may well be the cheaper option. I would be surprised if Dundee did not have a decent Auto electrician.
    Not only are the repairers a 90 min drive from me; I removed it from the car & took it to them; they couldn't (and can't) test it in the car; only on a workbench. They did replace some parts in it that they had to order but I didn't ask what these parts were. Once I got it back and refitted it - it was working fine in the car. Only last year post-primary lockdown did the problem reoccur. I doubt that the alternator itself is faulty and that the problem lies in the car elsewhere.

    Yes there are auto electricians evrywhere - I can visit one in Perth in 20 minutes; but atm that is impossible, the new current lockdown prohibits this plus the car is SORN. I have to resolve this myself.
    2002 Marina based LWB Roadster with Fiat 2.0 TC engine & box
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #15 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Apr 2018
    Location
    Southland - NZ
    Posts
    94
    Hi - you are stuck with a non operational car and the lockdown

    I would suggest that you buy a multimeter - if you haven't already got one - and bodge yourself an alternator test setup

    I'm thinking your electric drill or other motor driving the alternator - the loads will be low so you can just gaffer tape them together

    The idea would be to test the alternator on the bench - and then on the car using the drill to drive it while you did the checking with the multimeter
    Reply With Quote  
     

  6. #16 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    frequent forum contributor Club Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    147
    Element
    Have you by now established the make and model number of the Alternator fitted to your car?

    I can see no mention in your posts of the type you actually have?

    If you are unable to identify it, a photo of where the wires/terminals are fitted would be useful.

    On provision of that I/we maybe able to advise you further.
    Last edited by Ye Ol Ripper; 06-01-2021 at 09:56 AM.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  7. #17 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    club member Club Member chris_cussen's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2011
    Location
    South Somerset
    Posts
    595
    A local scrapyard has a test rig for alternators. It is quite simple.
    You need 1 wire to the ignition/warning lamp through a small bulb (like ignition warning lamp bulb). This is necessary to energise the alternator.
    If there is more than one large terminal then connect them together and wire this up to a headlamp bulb.
    Connect the alternator body to the battery negative and the other side of the headlamp bulb to the alternator body.
    Spin the alternator (electric drill onto pulley?) and see if the bulb lights.

    I have created a crude diagram.
    rig.jpg
    Cabrio, Omex 2.0l 170bhp Zetec blacktop, Omex ECU and wiring loom.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  8. #18 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    club member Club Member element's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Crieff, Perthshire
    Posts
    271
    Hi guys, sorry for the absence & non response; haven't had much time of late. However, I do have this weekend completely free & reckon I can easily rig up a test jig in the garage. I'll get to it and record the results. I have a multimeter. In lockdown up here and now have time on my hands, list of Marlin jobs to do...
    2002 Marina based LWB Roadster with Fiat 2.0 TC engine & box
    Reply With Quote  
     

  9. #19 Re: Alternator problem… again. 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2016
    Posts
    14
    Do not forget to check the battery voltage before starting the test. Again when the alternator is running (this should be higher than the original battery voltage) then if you can still with the alternator running use a source of heat such as a hot air gun and warm the alternator until it is reasonably hot all the while keeping an eye on the voltage.
    If this sinks back down to the battery voltage or less then I would suggest the voltage sensor in the alternator is defective. It may be that the original rebuild only changed the brushes as the normal wearing part of the alternator. If they changed the pully then the alternator has probably done a lot of miles.
    Reply With Quote  
     

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •