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  • Removing engine and transmission

    G’Day all
    I am about to remove the engine/transmission in my 1993 LWB roadster in order to swap the transmission and have a couple of questions.My transmission has very worn synchromesh between 2/3 and 3/4.Lukly when I bought the car from the original owner it came with many spare parts as he had two donor cars I took the transmission as I remember marinas having some problems with the unit. The unit in my car was modified with a triumph O/D unit ,I am not going to try modify the transmission to accept the O/D unit as the is way above my skill level and I seldom drive on the High Ways and use mostly secondary back roads.The question I have is when I took the new T to a transmission shop to take a look at the synchros he told me they looked fine but he said I should fill it with some fine oil as it looked like it had been sitting with out oil and so when I got it back to my shop I filled it 5/30 and let it sit for several weeks and when I looked at it yesterday some of the oil had leaked out the back end ,it was sitting a an angle with the flange almost touching the floor ,is this leak because I put a full quart of oil and allowed the tail piece to drop down .Hopfully there is a photo showing the angle.I am going to replace the seal but local parts stores do not know what a Marina is,is it the same part # as in a Spitfire if so I can get one also the throw out bearing and clutch plate are they spitfire parts if so great they are available .
    On removing the engine .I believe the proper way is to undo everything and to lift the motor and move it ahead a couple of inches and then lower it to the ground,I assume the rad can stay as it is behind the steering rack .Is there anything peculiar to the marlin engine removal?
    Thanks
    Last edited by michael47; 07-03-21, 10:53 PM.

  • #2
    Re: Removing engine and transmission

    You dont say, and I can’t remember, 1.8 or 1.3 engine, the clutches are not interchangeable.
    MOC member since 05/97
    1984 Marlin Roadster SWB.
    1800TC, Unleaded ported head, stage 2 cam. Ford Type 9 gearbox, Dolomite Sprint rear axle fitted with MGF disc brakes.
    Three core radiator, Renault Clio vented front discs.
    The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.

    Loads of Marlin Reference can be found documents here or there.

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Removing engine and transmission

      Sorry I forgot it is an 1800. We never had the A series in NA and I think of all marinas as 1800

      Comment


      • #4
        Re: Removing engine and transmission

        To my knowledge at this time of the day, none of the Triumph clutches match the 1.8, neither in diameter or the number of splines on the gearbox input shaft.
        MOC member since 05/97
        1984 Marlin Roadster SWB.
        1800TC, Unleaded ported head, stage 2 cam. Ford Type 9 gearbox, Dolomite Sprint rear axle fitted with MGF disc brakes.
        Three core radiator, Renault Clio vented front discs.
        The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.

        Loads of Marlin Reference can be found documents here or there.

        Comment


        • #5
          Re: Removing engine and transmission

          Luckily the clutch is good ,are the other parts the throw out bearing and the rear seal Triumph parts
          Thanks
          Michael

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          • #6
            Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

            Hi Michael

            I've just rebuilt my Marina Gearbox all the parts are available on-line. I brought a kit that included all the correct bearing including layshaft and needle rollers and all gaskets and seals I also brought a set of syncro cones, its not until you compare the old with the new that you realise that they are worn. I think the whole lot was about £180.00p. Mine was baulking quite badly which didn't help at all with my short remote gearchange. Still don't know the outcome yet as I'm still rebuilding the car. If you go down this route you need cut cut down the old layshaft to use as a dummy whilst rebuilding the gearbox otherwise the needle rollers can become displaced. I lifted the engine and gearbox out from the car with an engine crane whilst the car was supported high on 4 sturdy axle stands.

            Regards

            Mick.

            Engine Ready to go back in..jpgEngine out.jpgProgressing .jpg
            Attached Files

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            • #7
              Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

              Respect, Mick, coming along nicely
              Rgds DC

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              • #8
                Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

                Great working environment!
                - 9th owner of T693 SSC possibly a factory built Ford based V8 Sportster
                - 4th owner of Q309 RNV, an early Cabrio built by Bob Copping, owned Doug & Liz Billings for 16 years
                - 9th Custodian of JRR 929D, Triumph Vitesse based special Paul Moorehouse built prior to the Triumph Roadster kits.
                - 8th owner of Roadster chassis number 2395. Now owned by Barry!
                - Builder of chassis number 2325 (PKK 989M) in the mid 80's. Now owned by Eric & Lynne.

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

                  Thanks. Mick great help , I dropped mine out the bottom love those wheels. 620853BD-F164-437D-8392-9AC5C1356956.jpg[ATTACH=CONFIG]12248[/ATTACH
                  Last edited by michael47; 18-03-21, 06:07 AM.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

                    Great pictures :-) So I thought I would contribute mine.

                    engine_out4 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

                    Looking at the pictures has reminded me of a question I had.
                    Does anyone know why there is a step in the bulkhead below the pedal box? Is it for strength perhaps?
                    I will be remaking my bulkhead as it is cracked and full of holes in the wrong places and it would be considerably easier without the step.

                    Cheers, Robin

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

                      Hi Robin

                      My Bulkhead was cracked due to the pressure of the Brake Pedal action. I made up a frame to carry the Pedal Box and Servo Assembly. I think the step in the Bulkhead is due to the length of the Suspension Torsion Bar rear location and allowing enough leg room distance for the taller drivers.

                      14. Brake Servo Mounting Frame.jpg

                      Regards Mick.

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

                        Hi David

                        Its a 16' x 20' Compton Garage unfortunately its not always that tidy, I am doing a full re-wire on the car at the moment and its turned into a bit of a disaster area now (to embarrassed to photograph it) I'm working inside a Poly Tunnel erected inside the garage with a convector heater in and this creates a warm cozy environment to working during these cold days. The Roadster fits in the poly tunnel ok clearance is about 18"either side and about 24" at the front of the car, its a bit confined but it does keep the chill off you whilst tackling jobs on the car, hand tools are still freezing though.

                        I'm at the electrical functionality testing stage at the moment, its amazing how circuits test out OK with the test meter then throw up faults when you put electrical current through them, (respect to you auto-electrician's out there) I'm getting there slowly though then I can harness and route the loom and move on to some proper mechanical work rebuilding the car.

                        Next job is to build the new heater I have a new MG Midget Heater Matrix and I'm fitting it into the Marlin supplied heater box.

                        Regards

                        Mick.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

                          Hi Michael

                          Wheels are 13"x 5" Carmona Mistrals I don't think that you can get them now. The silver finish is the original and I brush painted the spokes and centres with the same paint as the car body.
                          I like your whole car support frames.

                          Regards

                          Mick.

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

                            Michael 44. Those ramps are brilliant! So many jobs are so much easier if the car is that bit higher, on top as well as underneath.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Removing 1800 engine and transmission

                              Originally posted by marlinmick View Post
                              Hi Robin
                              My Bulkhead was cracked due to the pressure of the Brake Pedal action. I made up a frame to carry the Pedal Box and Servo Assembly. I think the step in the Bulkhead is due to the length of the Suspension Torsion Bar rear location and allowing enough leg room distance for the taller drivers.
                              Regards Mick.
                              OK - thanks. I am vertically challenged so leg room not a problem :-)
                              I think I will remake my bulkhead so it is flat and at the same time add some reinforcement. With a flat bulkhead the reinforcement should be very simple.

                              Cheers, Robin

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