Click here to sign up  Click here to go to the galleries  Click here to go to the code of conduct  Click here to go to the video page  Click here to go to the SW Meets page
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 11 to 15 of 15

Thread: DRL152K Marina based roadster rebuild

  1. #11 Re: DRL152K Marina based roadster rebuild 
    frequent forum contributor Club Member
    Join Date
    May 2016
    Posts
    180
    Robin , I think your welding is plenty good enough , the key is getting enough heat and therefore penetration into the joint.

    Overall though your axle casing looks very corroded. I restored mine and found a twisted not attachment from Toolstation or Screwfix fitted to my 4" angle grinder, but stay away from the brake pipe retaining clips on the axle with that tool. I found
    worked well at removing the rust quickly . I then painted it with Red oxide primer and finally gloss black (Both were flag paints ).

    There has been no reoccurrence of any rust after 6 years. I only used that make paint as that is what Toolstation stocked at the time. I researched Flag paints and they make many marine application paints . So perhaps you may wish to check if purchasing Flag online compares with alternatives such as Rustoleum(Excellent) or Hammerite.
    Reply With Quote  
     

  2. #12 Re: DRL152K Marina based roadster rebuild 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Bedfordshire
    Posts
    153
    Thanks for the kind words and advice guys.
    I have been over the axle a couple of times with various rust removers now, both physical and chemical, and probably the next step will be a high zinc primer - I have been using the Upol 182 stuff elsewhere. It's funny the brake pipe retaining tabs were mentioned. Mine were non-existant and I have had to weld on some new ones. Quite tricky welding thin stuff to thick stuff but in the end I successfully used what I think they call a plug weld.

    Another small update....

    A little bit of progress mainly due to the fact that IKEA seem to be out of stock of some of the components for our new kitchen! Which seems to prevent you ordering any of it....

    So - I trial fitted the rear springs and all the bits that the axle hangs on. Bit of a milestone this as it means I am actually starting to assemble the car rather than dismantle!
    Not quite as simple as it would first appear as the original U-Bolts and lowering block were shot so I had to get some replacements. Of course Marina ones are simply not available so in the end I used some Grayston lowering blocks and U-bolts intended for the Ford Escort. Actually better quality than I expected. I had to squish the u-bolts slightly as they were a few mm wider than the original ones. But they are made properly from HT steel, it seems, so I had to heat up the U bit to cherry red before they would move. They are also 1/16" greater in diameter so had to fettle the spring plates.
    The other good game was the rubber spring pads. Again originals unavailable. You can get them from one of the polybush companies but they are over £100 for the 4! In the end I modified some intended for an MGB. Cost me all of £6.
    axle5 by Robin Martin, on Flickr
    Cheers, Robin
    PS - The block of wood is the axle simulator...
    Reply With Quote  
     

  3. #13 Re: DRL152K Marina based roadster rebuild 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2013
    Posts
    35
    Excellent work Robin - good to see the progress. Paul
    Reply With Quote  
     

  4. #14 Re: DRL152K Marina based roadster rebuild 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Bedfordshire
    Posts
    153
    I trial fitted the refurbished axle. It is very heavy! I have been pontificating about what dampers to use but Ebay had a special offer on Spax adjustables (20% off) so I spashed the cash and bought both rears and fronts (which are actually Herald rears).

    axle trial fit by Robin Martin, on Flickr

    The only real issue I had, prior to fitting, was the handbrake compensator lever which mounted using some long ago perished rubber top hat bushes. I managed to find an oilite bush of almost the correct size which was a tight press fit and used that instead. Probably better than the original.

    hand brake compensator by Robin Martin, on Flickr

    The only snag, and yet to be resolvled, is the proximity of the handbrake cables to the damper. I think it could well touch when the car is moving. Which probably wouldnt really matter but I guess it would be an MOT failure....

    hand brake cable by Robin Martin, on Flickr

    Next job is to remake the rear bulkhead - which I am going to make in steel rather than the original ally. That's going to be fun - folding 1.2mm zintec. Watch this space...
    Reply With Quote  
     

  5. #15 Re: DRL152K Marina based roadster rebuild 
    club member Club Member
    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Bedfordshire
    Posts
    153
    After a lot of delays the zintec steel for my front and rear bulkheads arrived. I am making them from steel as opposed to the original alluminium for strength. The front bulkhead tends to crack arround the pedal box and the rear bulkhead has the seatbelts mounted to it. I was able to use my newly beefed up bender for the first time. As expected the folds are fairly soft but fine for the purpose.

    on_a_bender by Robin Martin, on Flickr

    rear_bulkhead2 by Robin Martin, on Flickr

    It fits considerably better than the original factory made effort - even if I do say so myself!
    Reply With Quote  
     

Bookmarks

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •