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Thread: Oil Cooler not working

  1. #11 Re: Oil Cooler not working 
    club member Club Member greyV8pete's Avatar
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    The HT normally goes to earth, just via the spark plug gap, so I can’t see why that would cause the problem. My worry is that one of the loose HT leads has fired HT into a sender wire or similar that has fried the ECU. Hope not!

    BTW a bit off topic but as some disconnected thoughts, I have read somewhere that unlike the old school technique of pulling the plug leads off one at a time, when checking for a misfiring cylinder on an engine fitted with electronic ignition and fuel injection, it is safer to pull the injector plug off. That still identifies the duff cylinder without turning the ignition system into a defibrillator! Also on my Rover V8 injection engine the immobiliser shuts off the ECU and fuel pumps but still allows the starter to crank the engine. I don’t know if that is the same with the BMW? I have also heard that repeatedly cranking an engine with the injectors working but the plugs not firing produces a very fuel rich exhaust which can mess up oxygen sensors (or maybe it was the cats that it messes up?). Peter.
    Last edited by greyV8pete; 17-12-2021 at 08:39 AM.
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  2. #12 Re: Oil Cooler not working 
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    Thanks peter,
    Ill re-insert the thermostat and invert the cooler and see what happens. If it warms up and i can still fir the nosecone ill get in touch with you again for the J connectors.

    My fusible link is the same as in you picture and unfortunately still has continuity. I am looking for something else. Sierras had a fusible wire in one of the high current circuits so i am looking for that. It might have made it into the build. Although built by Marlin in 1997, there is alot of redundant wiring in the loom and maybe this was transferred. Thanks again for your help. It is good to have this support. When i got the car in August i had an exciting list of what i wanted to do with it. Not really done any of that list yet as the other things have cropped up. I try to view it all as part of the Joy!

    Jim
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  3. #13 Re: Oil Cooler not working 
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    I fear that i have fried the ECU too, i just dont want to think about it yet. Also i cannot imagine that that would cut off supply to all the electrics, dashboard lights, lights, hazards etc. nothing lives . In the event that i have seroiusly damaged things, it will need to be trailered to a garage that is skilled with:

    Kit cars in general.... some "engineers" are put off by the concept
    Old BMW engines.
    Electronic ignition and ECu from the 1990s ie old stuff
    tuning Webers..... it is popping back on the rear carb and all are running rich.
    Poss New ECUs in event of serious damage

    Any ideas???? I have details of a garage nar Preston ( ie local ish) called john Clarkson Autos who advertises in Complete Kit Car magazine and has good reviews and interesting car photos on his website but any personal reccommendations would be good.

    Jim
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  4. #14 Re: Oil Cooler not working 
    club member Club Member greyV8pete's Avatar
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    I would start at source. Get a multimeter and check the battery. Then check the battery Earth is clean and secure, both at the battery and the earthing point. Has the car got an isolator switch that has been knocked off during all the excitement???

    Then start checking for 12v between an earthing point and all the wires that lead from the battery to the fuse board. The horn is non ignition so should work right away but other components will need the ignition switch on and some will also need the immobiliser deactivated and of course lights etc will need the appropriate switch “on”. Take your time and work methodically. Make a note of what you have checked and don’t assume anything. Coincidences do happen and even the battery may have failed! Peter.
    Last edited by greyV8pete; 17-12-2021 at 05:45 PM.
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  5. #15 Re: Oil Cooler not working 
    club member Club Member chris_cussen's Avatar
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    With the exception of the starter motor my battery goes through a 100 amp fuse to the rest of the circuits. If you have one fitted and have blown that, then the car will be as dead as a dodo.
    Cabrio, Omex 2.0l 170bhp Zetec blacktop, Omex ECU and wiring loom.
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  6. #16 Re: Oil Cooler not working 
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    With reference to John Clarkson Auto Services at Westhoughton near Bolton. (Conveniently close to junction 6 of the M61).
    It was a one man/one car bay operation when I visited a couple of years back. His waiting list was so long he was unable to give a date when he might be able to look at the Edelbrock/Weber carburettor on the 3.9 Rover V8 in my Cabrio.
    However he did give friendly and helpful advice explaining that with a performance camshaft the tick-over would not be as smooth with the Edelbrock as it had been with the previous SU’s. My other worry was that the 3.9 was running on the same jets as carried over from the 3.5 litre ‘Copperleaves’ Sportster Mk 1, version No.1! (Though I have since learnt that Rimmer Bros. supply the same set-up as being suitable for both engine capacities).
    In short he has not done any work on my Marlin but it would be the first place I would turn to for tuning expertise.
    I think I’ll search again to see if I have a main fuse - not yet found one in 20 years!
    John
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  7. #17 Re: Oil Cooler not working 
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    thank you one and all or your help. I have not yet found the problem with the totally dead electrics as they haves started working again. Nothing i have done so on one level, great. on another, deeply unsatisfactory. Ill get the car back together and take it to John Clarksons and they can tune the engine and trouble shoot a number of glitches, inc poss the oil cooler.......then i can drive it before they ban petrol altogether! Happy New Year.

    Jim
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