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  • Non-starting problem

    Driving to work this morning, I thought at first something had broken off inside the silencer; very loud and a tinny sort of rattling when I tried to accelerate.

    Luckily there was a roundabout just ahead and at 6:30am not a lot of traffic on the back roads.

    I made it most of the three miles back, then 1/4 mile from home hit a red traffic light. The engine stopped.

    It took a minute or two to get it going again and I made it as far as the driveway where it stalled again.

    The engine (2L Pinto) appears to turn over OK without plugs fitted and I see a spark at the plugs (I have some of those red AccuSpark tester things).

    Disributor cap, rotor arm, spark plugs and leads all replaced. Still no joy.

    I have an Accuspark electronic ignition distributor and run on BP Ultimate unleaded.

    The battery is fully charged using a trickle charger.

    Does anyone have a suggestion as to what I should try next?

    Thanks.

  • #2
    Re: Non-starting problem

    It sounds like timing to me Alan, have you checked the cam has not jumped a tooth or the dizzy bolt has come loose altering the timing.
    You don't mention anything about fuel are you getting fuel to the carb? have you taken a plug out after cranking to see if it's wet with fuel?

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    • #3
      Re: Non-starting problem

      I checked the timing and it appears to all be correct, the rotor arm, timing marks and #1 piston all seem to be where they should be.

      Then I tried putting a bit of fuel into the carb by twisting the accelerator linkage a few times that seemed to work fine.

      I'm wondering if fuel might have anything to do with it. I have always used Shell premium, but the last two fill ups I used BP Ultimate (1/2 a tank each time).

      I'm going to get a gallon of shell and pour a little into the inlet manifold to see if that fires the engine.

      Not sure if bad fuel would have caused the tinny knocking in the exhaust.

      I also held my hand over the exhaust as I cranked the engine and there seemed to be pressure from the engine.
      Last edited by nightsurfer; 13-01-22, 10:04 PM.

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      • #4
        Re: Non-starting problem

        Check your rubber fuel hoses. Had a crack in one of mine and the pump couldn't draw from the tank.

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        • #5
          Re: Non-starting problem

          Originally posted by jon_wilkinson View Post
          Check your rubber fuel hoses. Had a crack in one of mine and the pump couldn't draw from the tank.
          If your hoses and pump are not ethanol compatible, maybe that’s the problem.
          for parts, check Buren’s who have parts for pumps and carburettors that are compatible.
          MOC member since 05/97
          1984 Marlin Roadster SWB.
          1800TC, Unleaded ported head, stage 2 cam. Ford Type 9 gearbox, Dolomite Sprint rear axle fitted with MGF disc brakes.
          Three core radiator, Renault Clio vented front discs.
          The reasonable man adapts himself to the world; the unreasonable one persists in trying to adapt the world to himself. Therefore all progress depends on the unreasonable man.

          Loads of Marlin Reference can be found documents here or there.

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          • #6
            Re: Non-starting problem

            Thanks both. I'll check the hoses tomorrow, but there was plenty of fuel at the carb and in the (see through) fuel filter. The float chanber was also full.
            They've been on the car for three years (1200 annual mileage) and up until the last two fills, I have always used Shell V-power.
            I called into Quest Brothers Classic Cars in St Ives (Cambs) tonight and spoke to Paul. He has suggested checking the valve clearances and compression, so I've ordered a compression tester, which should arrive next week.

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            • #7
              Re: Non-starting problem

              The noise from the silencer may indicate you have a loose baffle. This may be blocking the passage of exhaust gas which will stop the engine when the pressure has built up in the exhaust system. As the pressure reduces (it would be holding the baffle in its blocking position) the baffle may clear and then the engine will start as normal. This then occurs again when the pressure builds up. Suggest you remove the silencer and run the engine. If the fault does not come again then you know what the answer is.

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              • #8
                Re: Non-starting problem

                Thanks. I'll give it a go.

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                • #9
                  Re: Non-starting problem

                  Tonight I managed to get the car running, after a fashion.

                  I connected a jerry can of Shell V-Power and checked that the fuel pump was working,

                  Then I retarded the ignition slightly and sprayed some cold start direct into the engine before refitting the plugs.

                  After a couple of tries it fired up, but it was quite rough and even when the water temperature gauge was on 80°c I needed the choke out to stop the engine stalling.

                  It didn’t appear to be lack of fuel as there was no upping and downing of the engine speed if I didn’t touch the choke.

                  So on the advice of a friend from the MOC, I have just ordered a replacement Accuspark Electronic distributor.

                  I’ve not removed the silencer yet as I wanted to try the above things first and when running, the exhaust seemed to be fine. I’ll keep an eye on it though and maybe return to it if the distributor doesn’t help.

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                  • #10
                    Re: Non-starting problem

                    Hi Alan, before fitting the Accuspark distributor look on the pinto engine facebook page there has been some really bad failures of accuspark distributor's resulting in the engines having to be rebuilt.

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                    • #11
                      Re: Non-starting problem

                      Thanks Angus, I will do. I didn't even know there was a pinto facebook page. Heading there now....

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Re: Non-starting problem

                        Log in to Facebook to start sharing and connecting with your friends, family and people you know.


                        Hopefully the link works but if it dose not search Bestek Crawley on Facebook he has a really interesting video on how bad accuspark are!

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                        • #13
                          Re: Non-starting problem

                          Hiya

                          There not all bad, I fitted the AccuSpark Electronic Conversion Kit three years ago to my Marina based car and haven't touched it since. Works fine.

                          I have heard that some people have fitted the replacement dizzy and have had problems.

                          Just a note, on the Pinto engined cars, the red lead must go to the fuse box or ignition NOT the coil.

                          Adrian


                          Originally posted by angusgrooby View Post
                          https://m.facebook.com/groups/174190...2763226027010/

                          Hopefully the link works but if it dose not search Bestek Crawley on Facebook he has a really interesting video on how bad accuspark are!

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Re: Non-starting problem

                            My car came fitted with AccuSpark and must be approx 10 years old. I believe the older ones are ok and I think AccuSpark have had a bad batch or the quality control is not there. It might just be the pinto distributors I am not sure.

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Non-starting problem

                              I have seen similar parts as used in the distributor Accuspark kits on Aliexpress. I think they are all made in China and Accuspark are just adding their name to them.

                              It would probably be better to fit an Accuspark kit to a Bosch distributor rather than replacing the distributor as the Chinese replacement won't be as good a an original Bosch.

                              "After a couple of tries it fired up, but it was quite rough and even when the water temperature gauge was on 80°c I needed the choke out to stop the engine stalling."

                              From what you have described, your particular problem appears to be a possible airleak around either the inlet manifold, base of the carb or either end of the servo pipe.

                              Have you also checked your idle jet in the carb to ensure it's not blocked?
                              Last edited by Ye Ol Ripper; 19-01-22, 10:56 AM.

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